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Loose clutch petal

Stick with OEM and the warranty brother. Ignore the noise, you dont need to justify your decision to others.

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Old 11-17-2016, 12:29 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Stick with OEM and the warranty brother. Ignore the noise, you dont need to justify your decision to others.
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Old 11-17-2016, 01:26 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Default Loose clutch petal

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Originally Posted by BehindSpace View Post
Stick with OEM and the warranty brother. Ignore the noise, you dont need to justify your decision to others.


This is terrible advice. We're telling him to use cheaper, less failure prone parts. You're telling him to overpay for garbage.

Given that you told people 320 degree oil temps and 10k oil change intervals are ok, maybe you should not be in the advice business.
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Old 11-17-2016, 04:05 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Chuck33079 View Post
This is terrible advice. We're telling him to use cheaper, less failure prone parts. You're telling him to overpay for garbage.

Given that you told people 320 degree oil temps and 10k oil change intervals are ok, maybe you should not be in the advice business.

I think i give outstanding advise. oil coolers that dont let the oil get to over 212 do more harm than good and limp mode is too low if its at 280 it shud be raised to 320 like other manufacturers, the car needs to go to 212 to 300 every time or its not evaporating the moysture
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Old 11-17-2016, 10:33 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BehindSpace View Post
I think i give outstanding advise. oil coolers that dont let the oil get to over 212 do more harm than good and limp mode is too low if its at 280 it shud be raised to 320 like other manufacturers, the car needs to go to 212 to 300 every time or its not evaporating the moysture
Here's what I think of your advice.

Problem is. The ecu starts to pull timing at around 230F.

Oil does NOT have to get to 212F for the moisture in oil for it to boil off. It will start to evaporate at 110F. If you maintain 110F, it will never get moisture. I used to work with equipment that had 7,000 gal oil systems. Engineered the bugs out of the systems.

Mustangs, and Vette C7 Z06's have a high oil temp problems too. Chevy quite selling the Z06 until they can figure a fix.
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Old 11-17-2016, 03:04 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Stick with OEM and the warranty brother. Ignore the noise, you dont need to justify your decision to others.
The oem parts are what gotten him here in the first place troll
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Old 11-17-2016, 04:07 PM   #6 (permalink)
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The oem parts are what gotten him here in the first place troll
i give excellent advise. the aftermarket parts broke also and then they sayd oh you need to replace the master athe same time, then the elimination kit sayd oh you need to adjust it thruout its life to maintain pressure plate clearance as your clutch wears down. i pick oem with warranty!
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Old 11-17-2016, 04:09 PM   #7 (permalink)
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advice not advise
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Old 11-18-2016, 08:47 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BehindSpace View Post
i give excellent advise. the aftermarket parts broke also and then they sayd oh you need to replace the master athe same time, then the elimination kit sayd oh you need to adjust it thruout its life to maintain pressure plate clearance as your clutch wears down. i pick oem with warranty!
Actually, the CMAK kit does not need adjustment


The OP seems like a sailed ship, I think we are wasting our time considering he doesn't listen at all. Lets just wait until the new csc fails and he comes back with the same problem again for the lulz
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Old 11-17-2016, 04:18 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BehindSpace View Post
Stick with OEM and the warranty brother. Ignore the noise, you dont need to justify your decision to others.


Thanks for that
I am in Madera, Ca.
I cannot drive all over this state trying to find someone to do this work
Also, I was just notified today that half of all these repairs will be covered...
Change that to 1,690$
:-)
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Old 11-17-2016, 04:23 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Billibob22 View Post
Thanks for that
I am in Madera, Ca.
I cannot drive all over this state trying to find someone to do this work
Also, I was just notified today that half of all these repairs will be covered...
Change that to 1,690$
:-)
It's your money. Do as you wish but I highly suggest you get that warranty in writing if not done so already. You're going to need it.
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Old 11-17-2016, 10:06 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Billibob22 View Post
$3,380
I went ahead and replaced the whole thing
Guaranteed 3 years 50,000
I'll have it back Thursday

I took the car to San Fran the first Friday of this month to a meeting...
I got to Pleasanton and it went to the floor.
I was prepared
I continued to pump and pull the clutch off of the floor until I got there...
On the drive home same thing
Repeated the pumping and pulling off of the floor with moments of pressure in between...
Got it home
Replaced fluid
Got through about a week with pressure
Took it to the appointment this last Saturday
Pressure tested no good in both master and slave
Pedal on floor by now, completely failed
We will see Thursday!


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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billibob22 View Post
Thanks for that
I am in Madera, Ca.
I cannot drive all over this state trying to find someone to do this work
Also, I was just notified today that half of all these repairs will be covered...
Change that to 1,690$
:-)
Christ. They are butt raping you big time! You got a warranty that's crap! Shouldn't have to pay another $1690. You was given good advice, but didn't take it. It's your money.
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Old 11-18-2016, 06:13 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BehindSpace View Post
Stick with OEM and the warranty brother. Ignore the noise, you dont need to justify your decision to others.
You are the noise here, moron. He obviously doesn't have a warranty if he is paying $1700 out of pocket. Your so-called advice is absolutely terrible
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Old 11-18-2016, 08:25 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Stick with OEM and the warranty brother. Ignore the noise, you dont need to justify your decision to others.
OK TROLL, it is time for you to leave!!!!
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