Swift springs with SPC rear camber arm ALIGNMENT RESULTS (need help)

NoHyperbole · 08-29-2015, 11:08 AM

The amount of right front negative camber you have is suspicious. After installing Swift springs, my left front camber was the same as yours at -1.3, but my right front camber was -1.8, which I didn't like because of the .5 difference from side to side. Nothing was bent; that's seems to be what happens when you lower the car. The only way to fix the camber issue is getting aftermarket front camber arms (SPL, SPC, etc.), which are adjustable for camber and caster, so that's what I did to dial in my camber. As you mentioned, something may be bent, so you should address that first, and then maybe you should get aftermarket front camber arms so you can dial in the exact camber you want.

As for toe, your numbers are within spec but are on the high side. Excessive toe will wear out tires. A lot of people on here like to run zero toe in front and just a bit of positive toe in back. Positive toe in back helps with high-speed stability. I am a bit more conservative, so I am running the minimum recommended values both front and back, which are .04 front and .08 back.

As for the steering wheel not being straight, that has nothing to do with the amount of toe. I've had the same issue with my car on two separate alignments. It's really annoying, but it's just a matter of the tech really taking the time to perfectly center the wheel and lock it in place before beginning the alignment.

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08-29-2015, 11:08 AM	#2 (permalink)
NoHyperbole Base Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 216 Drives: N/A Rep Power: 13	The amount of right front negative camber you have is suspicious. After installing Swift springs, my left front camber was the same as yours at -1.3, but my right front camber was -1.8, which I didn't like because of the .5 difference from side to side. Nothing was bent; that's seems to be what happens when you lower the car. The only way to fix the camber issue is getting aftermarket front camber arms (SPL, SPC, etc.), which are adjustable for camber and caster, so that's what I did to dial in my camber. As you mentioned, something may be bent, so you should address that first, and then maybe you should get aftermarket front camber arms so you can dial in the exact camber you want. As for toe, your numbers are within spec but are on the high side. Excessive toe will wear out tires. A lot of people on here like to run zero toe in front and just a bit of positive toe in back. Positive toe in back helps with high-speed stability. I am a bit more conservative, so I am running the minimum recommended values both front and back, which are .04 front and .08 back. As for the steering wheel not being straight, that has nothing to do with the amount of toe. I've had the same issue with my car on two separate alignments. It's really annoying, but it's just a matter of the tech really taking the time to perfectly center the wheel and lock it in place before beginning the alignment.