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Swift springs with SPC rear camber arm ALIGNMENT RESULTS (need help)

Hi guys, 150 miles ago I've installed Swift springs. Got my alignment done today (twice), can't get the Front Right camber within the specs. The guy said maybe the spindle

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Old 08-28-2015, 02:19 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Swift springs with SPC rear camber arm ALIGNMENT RESULTS (need help)

Hi guys,

150 miles ago I've installed Swift springs. Got my alignment done today (twice), can't get the Front Right camber within the specs. The guy said maybe the spindle or strut is bent. What do you guys think? What should I do from this point on? I don't want to ruin my new tires, or will it?

I have only the rear camber kit from SPC, which the rear specs seems fine. What about the toes? Anything wrong with the toes? I'm not an expert in these stuff. Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks.

First results came out, I went for a drive and felt the steering wheel is tilted to the right. So they did the alignment the second time and decrease the front toes. Now, the steering wheel is STILL a bit tilted to the right side (should i just live with it?) and the camber still can't be fixed.
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Old 08-29-2015, 11:08 AM   #2 (permalink)
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The amount of right front negative camber you have is suspicious. After installing Swift springs, my left front camber was the same as yours at -1.3, but my right front camber was -1.8, which I didn't like because of the .5 difference from side to side. Nothing was bent; that's seems to be what happens when you lower the car. The only way to fix the camber issue is getting aftermarket front camber arms (SPL, SPC, etc.), which are adjustable for camber and caster, so that's what I did to dial in my camber. As you mentioned, something may be bent, so you should address that first, and then maybe you should get aftermarket front camber arms so you can dial in the exact camber you want.

As for toe, your numbers are within spec but are on the high side. Excessive toe will wear out tires. A lot of people on here like to run zero toe in front and just a bit of positive toe in back. Positive toe in back helps with high-speed stability. I am a bit more conservative, so I am running the minimum recommended values both front and back, which are .04 front and .08 back.

As for the steering wheel not being straight, that has nothing to do with the amount of toe. I've had the same issue with my car on two separate alignments. It's really annoying, but it's just a matter of the tech really taking the time to perfectly center the wheel and lock it in place before beginning the alignment.
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Old 08-29-2015, 12:00 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks for the info! I guess I'll go back to them on Monday to get the toes fixed. .04 front and .08 rear? Or should I do perfect 0 in the front?

How bad is it if i were to leave the front right camber @ -2.3?


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The amount of right front negative camber you have is suspicious. After installing Swift springs, my left front camber was the same as yours at -1.3, but my right front camber was -1.8, which I didn't like because of the .5 difference from side to side. Nothing was bent; that's seems to be what happens when you lower the car. The only way to fix the camber issue is getting aftermarket front camber arms (SPL, SPC, etc.), which are adjustable for camber and caster, so that's what I did to dial in my camber. As you mentioned, something may be bent, so you should address that first, and then maybe you should get aftermarket front camber arms so you can dial in the exact camber you want.

As for toe, your numbers are within spec but are on the high side. Excessive toe will wear out tires. A lot of people on here like to run zero toe in front and just a bit of positive toe in back. Positive toe in back helps with high-speed stability. I am a bit more conservative, so I am running the minimum recommended values both front and back, which are .04 front and .08 back.

As for the steering wheel not being straight, that has nothing to do with the amount of toe. I've had the same issue with my car on two separate alignments. It's really annoying, but it's just a matter of the tech really taking the time to perfectly center the wheel and lock it in place before beginning the alignment.
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Old 08-29-2015, 02:24 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Default Steering wheel

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As for the steering wheel not being straight, that has nothing to do with the amount of toe. I've had the same issue with my car on two separate alignments. It's really annoying, but it's just a matter of the tech really taking the time to perfectly center the wheel and lock it in place before beginning the alignment.
When I had my alignment done the tech took it for a drive and when he came back they put it back on the lift a second time to get the steering wheel centered. They told me they just make adjustments to the steering rack to fix that. My steering wheel is right on. That's just what they told me. I know nothng other than that.

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Old 08-29-2015, 02:52 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I guess I just chose the wrong place to go to. Seems like they were just too lazy to help me get it done the right way!



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When I had my alignment done the tech took it for a drive and when he came back they put it back on the lift a second time to get the steering wheel centered. They told me they just make adjustments to the steering rack to fix that. My steering wheel is right on. That's just what they told me. I know nothng other than that.

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Old 08-29-2015, 05:55 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by GordoNx3o9 View Post
Thanks for the info! I guess I'll go back to them on Monday to get the toes fixed. .04 front and .08 rear? Or should I do perfect 0 in the front?

How bad is it if i were to leave the front right camber @ -2.3?
Not bad at all.

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Old 08-30-2015, 09:43 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Take your car to:

Intrack Tires.
101-10 Jamaica Ave, Richmond Hill, NY 11418
(718) 303-9663

They work on a lot of slammed cars so they know what they're doing. They asked me before they did any work if I had aftermarket arms, so they seem knowledgeable enough to get you back in spec.
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Old 08-31-2015, 10:23 PM   #8 (permalink)
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The mechanic that installed the springs will inspect the front right components for me on Wednesday. Crossing my fingers hoping there's something he can just adjust without me ordering the adjustable camber arms.


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If you are autocrossing or tracking the car, then zero toe is more suitable (sometimes even a little toe out, or negative toe, for better turn-in). For a street-driven car, it is better to have some positive toe for stability.

As for your front camber, mine was off by only .5 from left to right, and I didn't like the way the car felt. Yours is off by a full 1 degree, which is far too much. Plus, you may have a bent susupension component, which is causing the excessive negative camber in the first place. So I think you need to do some investigation.

FWIW, I got aftermarket front camber arms, and I am running -2.0 degrees of front camber left and right, and the car certainly feels much better. -2.3 degrees of front camber is a lot for a street-driven car, especially when the other side is only -1.3 degrees.
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Old 08-31-2015, 10:28 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Thanks for the info!
Just did a quick google search on them, sure they look like they can help. Will call them tomorrow.


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Originally Posted by enkei2k View Post
Take your car to:

Intrack Tires.
101-10 Jamaica Ave, Richmond Hill, NY 11418
(718) 303-9663

They work on a lot of slammed cars so they know what they're doing. They asked me before they did any work if I had aftermarket arms, so they seem knowledgeable enough to get you back in spec.
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Old 08-31-2015, 11:31 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I guess I just chose the wrong place to go to. Seems like they were just too lazy to help me get it done the right way!
may be the way it's set up on the rack/also remember proper tire pressure & full tank of fuel....your place wasn't as bad as mine/they tried to set my front & rear toe @0,,,Fail...car was dancing all over the road under hard acceleration...gotta have some positive toe front & rear (wheels pointed in) as for your r/f camber-they may have an in-accurate reading tool....gauge your tires with tread depth gauge inner,outer & center.
can't remember my numbers right now-but my front camber is not adjustable(stock) & i old school put some toe back in the rear...one day i will find a reputable place.
i've actually been looking at some alignment tools on you-tube & not very expensive.
just keep the rear toe///mine drove very dangerous with none.
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Old 09-01-2015, 05:30 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I have the same issue you have in the front right except mine is at -1.9. still about .5 difference from left to right. Im going to go back and loosed the top control arm and see if i can pull the arm if there is any wiggle room then re tighten the arm. maybe there is some play you can work with? idk ill find out.

My toe in the back is really bad and i feel like there is no high speed stability and the ar seems to want to change direction pretty easily. Im goign back to get another alignment as well.

Ive had the -1.9 camber int he front passanger since like march and the tire wear is very noticable. im going to rotate the fronts asap to try to save the inside from getting too worn.

Im not willing to spend 500+ on front camber arms. if i cant adjust the front arm im just going back to stock. not worth the hassle ive been through IMO
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Old 09-01-2015, 06:49 PM   #12 (permalink)
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There is zero adjustment in the front end for camber and caster without going to the aftermarket front arms. Its stupid how Nissan didnt include some factory adjustment in the front like they did in the rear.
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Old 09-01-2015, 07:27 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Pulled this up on AllData if it helps any.ImageUploadedByTapatalk1441153587.516640.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1441153600.366067.jpg
Still can't put my hands on what my camber specs are; I know rear is -1.7*


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