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Any cons of lowering springs?

This is what I used but you'll go through about 4 or more so I suggest something more serious. There is a bit of a learning curve involved when using

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Old 06-10-2015, 03:26 PM   #46 (permalink)
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This is what I used but you'll go through about 4 or more so I suggest something more serious. There is a bit of a learning curve involved when using them so you don't blow them up, but once you get the hang of it you can get about one hole elongated per bit before they're toast.

455 Chain Saw Sharpening Stone / Model: 455

I'm thinking the back up cutter I bought but didn't use was one of these ones.

Tungsten Carbide Cutters

It needs to be able to hack steel. You can read what they'll cut in the description of each bit. Bits for soft metals won't survive, nor cut worth a s***. Using them will just piss you off, and you'll be under there all day cursing. Ask me how I know.
Oh, and Amazon usually has the Dremel bits real cheap if you can wait a few days to get them. I got the pair of 115s (or 117s) for a fraction of what they'd have cost me at my local Home Depot.

104
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Last edited by Zipper 104; 06-10-2015 at 03:29 PM. Reason: addition
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Old 06-10-2015, 03:36 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Something like this one cost me $19 CDN at Home Depot.
Look at what Amazon wants. If I was doing it all over again I'd get a pair of something like these. It'd be like a hot knife through butter. 104

http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-9902-Tu.../dp/B00004UDJK
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Old 06-12-2015, 07:46 PM   #48 (permalink)
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Nice!
Now I'm looking for wheels. I was going to stick with 18"s, but I think I would like 19"s, just to fill what little gap is left. Regardless, I'm extremely happy with the results. Someone at work noticed there was something different about my car, but they couldn't put their finger on it. To me, that's always a good sign. It means that, while subtle, it looks right!

Sorry for the quality of the photo, but all I have is my old iPhone.

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Old 06-12-2015, 09:14 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Now I'm looking for wheels. I was going to stick with 18"s, but I think I would like 19"s, just to fill what little gap is left. Regardless, I'm extremely happy with the results. Someone at work noticed there was something different about my car, but they couldn't put their finger on it. To me, that's always a good sign. It means that, while subtle, it looks right!

Sorry for the quality of the photo, but all I have is my old iPhone.

Lookin'

Very nice.
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Old 06-12-2015, 09:26 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Lookin'

Very nice.
Thanks, madwi! I appreciate it.
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Old 06-12-2015, 10:00 PM   #51 (permalink)
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Perfect height bro. This is how they should have built the Z from the get go. I can't tell from this angle, do you have any spacers on? I think going with larger tires and bringing the wheels out flush with your fenders will give an illusion of smaller wheel gap, no need to go up to 19s unless that's what you wanted.
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Old 06-12-2015, 11:29 PM   #52 (permalink)
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Perfect height bro. This is how they should have built the Z from the get go. I can't tell from this angle, do you have any spacers on? I think going with larger tires and bringing the wheels out flush with your fenders will give an illusion of smaller wheel gap, no need to go up to 19s unless that's what you wanted.
That's a great point, Zbrah. Actually, no, I don't have spacers, so the wheels are sunken in a good bit. I didn't get spacers, since I knew I would be getting new wheels in the near future. That makes sense that I could stay with 18s and, with the proper offset, it would bring the wheels further out and make my car look more planted. I think I will keep looking for 18s that I like, but I am lost when it comes to offsets. I've read several threads, but I still don't seem to get it. The more I read, the more I get confused. Guess I need to just start over and really pay attention to how the numbers work.

At any rate, thanks for the compliment and the kind words. I appreciate it, bro!
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Old 06-13-2015, 07:17 PM   #53 (permalink)
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Default Here you go.....

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Yep, I need pics to confirm where the lockouts are being installed. Also, if you don't mind showing the drill bit you used to elongate the camber holes too. I'm not too mechanical so pictures would help a ton here. Thanks!
Left rear of car.......
Left TN....Toe bolts go on the inboard end of the spring bucket where I've put the piece of beige masking tape.
Middle TN.... Lockout goes on the inboard end of the camber arm marked by a piece of green masking tape. See blue jam nut midway and adjuster beyond it.
Right TN.....entire Camber arm (outboard end closest) Inboard end furthest away with green tape. 104
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Old 06-14-2015, 11:58 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Left rear of car.......
Left TN....Toe bolts go on the inboard end of the spring bucket where I've put the piece of beige masking tape.
Middle TN.... Lockout goes on the inboard end of the camber arm marked by a piece of green masking tape. See blue jam nut midway and adjuster beyond it.
Right TN.....entire Camber arm (outboard end closest) Inboard end furthest away with green tape. 104
Thank you Zip!!

Edit: You only used two lockout bolts? I see the lockout kit usually comes with four bolts/eight square washers, but your pictures only show two bolts installed on the end of each camber arm.
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Old 06-15-2015, 12:17 AM   #55 (permalink)
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That's a great point, Zbrah. Actually, no, I don't have spacers, so the wheels are sunken in a good bit. I didn't get spacers, since I knew I would be getting new wheels in the near future. That makes sense that I could stay with 18s and, with the proper offset, it would bring the wheels further out and make my car look more planted. I think I will keep looking for 18s that I like, but I am lost when it comes to offsets. I've read several threads, but I still don't seem to get it. The more I read, the more I get confused. Guess I need to just start over and really pay attention to how the numbers work.

At any rate, thanks for the compliment and the kind words. I appreciate it, bro!
I have an article that explains wheel offsets with examples on my laptop, i'll try to get that upload later for you.

Edit: Even better, I found a thread dedicated entirely for 18" wheels on 370Z. Simply pick out the set up you like and go with the exact specs
18's on a 370z
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Old 06-15-2015, 08:53 AM   #56 (permalink)
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Thanks, Zbrah! I'll check it out tonight. Rep coming your way!


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Old 06-15-2015, 03:42 PM   #57 (permalink)
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Thank you Zip!!

Edit: You only used two lockout bolts? I see the lockout kit usually comes with four bolts/eight square washers, but your pictures only show two bolts installed on the end of each camber arm.
Not sure, but I only bought two lockout bolts. I don't know if they are to replace all four or if there's a pair required for the front, if you do the front kit???
I was able to get only two so it saved me paying for the extra pair, but I suppose if you have them, put them on the outboard end in place of the stockers.

104
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Old 06-15-2015, 03:48 PM   #58 (permalink)
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Something like this one cost me $19 CDN at Home Depot.
Look at what Amazon wants. If I was doing it all over again I'd get a pair of something like these. It'd be like a hot knife through butter. 104

http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-9902-Tu.../dp/B00004UDJK
Ordering. Thanks!
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Old 06-15-2015, 03:52 PM   #59 (permalink)
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Not sure, but I only bought two lockout bolts. I don't know if they are to replace all four or if there's a pair required for the front, if you do the front kit???
I was able to get only two so it saved me paying for the extra pair, but I suppose if you have them, put them on the outboard end in place of the stockers.

104
Alright, I'll do that. Thanks again for the help! I'm much more confident to do this on my own now that I understand where everything should go
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Old 07-24-2015, 07:22 PM   #60 (permalink)
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Keep calling shops and they are all about $600 for the install of rear arms and springs and alignment

How much did you end up paying for install? I just got quoted for $810 for installing swift springs, SPL camber arms, spacers, SPL eccentric lockout kit and rear spc camber bolts. Crazy.


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