Rockford T212D2 too much for 370z?

david712370 · 04-24-2009, 08:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rreign

Well, to start this out, I am no expert so to speak. I have been installing car audio and doing custom fiberglass for about 5 years though. You can basically do what you want as long as you know how to offset your co-axial speakers. i.e. delay, mixing, fading etc. I have yet to tear into a 370 but I have done some similar sized cars and smaller. Your best bet would be to ditch the spare, build a custom enclosure to the spare tire well and mount the amp separately from the sub (as to not mess with the interior components from high decibels. Also because there isn't much room, mount the additional amp across from the other.

When you install the co-axials do all of your adjustments from the head unit to the way you want to hear your system. You would probably want more of a delay to the rear speakers and make sure you can set the mixing on your head unit. Probably like a 60% (front) 40%(rear) set up. Then turn up your head unit to about 75% of it's volume, then adjust the gain on your amp until the sound coming from the speakers starts to distort. When you can hear a little bit of distortion, back the gain down a little bit til it's clear again. This is your max volume and gain that your system will be able to obtain. Do the same with the sub, and you're done.

You can use basically any set-up you want. These are just rules of thumb to adjusting the system. Don't worry about glass or anything shattering from too much of anything. It's going to take way more than that 13 to do any harm to the car.

I hope this helped. If you need any more info or have any more questions just let me know.

Thanks alot.... I appreciate your input and it makes alot of sense. I just bought some 3 way components. For now, I'm going to run them with a 4 channel amp i had in my old car. The 3 ways say 150 watts rms and my amp can do 200w bridged so that will just have to work for now. I'm getting a kenwood ddx814 which has very good tuning capabilities so if I do decide to get rear speakers that should help.

As far as the subs go, at first i was thinking of eventually getting the 13w7 from JL and calling it a day. My other option was to get a t1500-1bd from rockford which is 1500watts @ 1 ohm and 1000w@2ohm. and was then going to get a T212d4 which handles 1000watts at a single 2 ohm load.... if this wasn't enough... which i'm sure it will satisfy but if i wanted to go overboard, i could add another and use the same amp, and just under power the two subs a little. Usually Rockfords have more power than they are rated at... from what i've seen these amps have at least 1700-1800 instead of the rated 1500. Do you think the two T2's could possible shatter any glass. I have read that people with two of the 15" T2's have reached about 134db.

rreign · 04-24-2009, 06:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by david712370

Thanks alot.... I appreciate your input and it makes alot of sense. I just bought some 3 way components. For now, I'm going to run them with a 4 channel amp i had in my old car. The 3 ways say 150 watts rms and my amp can do 200w bridged so that will just have to work for now. I'm getting a kenwood ddx814 which has very good tuning capabilities so if I do decide to get rear speakers that should help.

As far as the subs go, at first i was thinking of eventually getting the 13w7 from JL and calling it a day. My other option was to get a t1500-1bd from rockford which is 1500watts @ 1 ohm and 1000w@2ohm. and was then going to get a T212d4 which handles 1000watts at a single 2 ohm load.... if this wasn't enough... which i'm sure it will satisfy but if i wanted to go overboard, i could add another and use the same amp, and just under power the two subs a little. Usually Rockfords have more power than they are rated at... from what i've seen these amps have at least 1700-1800 instead of the rated 1500. Do you think the two T2's could possible shatter any glass. I have read that people with two of the 15" T2's have reached about 134db.

Let's see, I think if I do the math, you probably have about 81 ft of cubic airspace inside the car. The airspace in the car isn't all that relevent but if you think about it in terms of the car being so small on the interior, it kind of works like it's own enclosure. Any more than 12's and you won't break glass directly from over all decibel output but you put a lot of pressure near the seals. If you hit around 150dB, you may be in some sh*t if those seals ever loosen up from sound or vibration. I have 2 MTX TR7510-22's with MTX 3 ways all around and I am hitting 127dB in my Mazda 6s. That's just 10's in a fiberglass enclosure. If you get the right sub/co-axial/amp(s) combo, you don't need all that much. So in all, you'll never come close to hitting that high of decibels!