I would still be interested in the remote option at the $150 price point, but not till after the holidays. I also had a few questions: I haven't had time yet to install my back-up camera kit yet, so I was just wondering if there is enough space behind the dash to hook up the back-up camera kit with the bypass kit and remote module. Also, do these all just plug into each other?

The two harnesses plug into different components so they are independent of each other. There is a lot of room behind the nav head so it shouldn't be an issue....

$150 does seem a bit steep for me... would a DIY kit be possible where basically we'd be putting the harness together ourselves? and I think I'd probably just get the harness by itself without a switch/remote and figure that out on my own.

I could definitely provide the harness without a switch but you would probably be looking at $100 for that for reasons I will explain below.

Putting together the harness is the time consuming part, it involves crimping and soldering lots of tiny pins that are then inserted in to the housings. In theory I could provide a bag of bits, but I don't think many would want that because unless you have had a lot of practice you are likely to make mistakes (I know I did and I play with this stuff all the time). You would also need the correct tools that you would likely have to purchase. I think anyone inclined enough to do that would probably have gone the complete DIY route.

The switch is $16 through Southwest Nissan :tup:. However, I was told they are extremely hard to find.

I order one from Courtesy Nissan which was ~$19 plus the connector and Shipping and the total came to nearer $45. Nowhere appeared to have any in-stock so I hope it doesn't take too long.

So would it be worth it for us to put our order in for the switch? or is that something you would be providing along with the kit? If we need to order the switch ourselves, what is the part number for it?

Lets see what turns up and then decide. If the switch works there may be some benefit in ordering in bulk for savings on shipping. I also want to take a look at the connector, it may be cheaper for me to attach my own but wont know until it turns up.

This is a great thread guys, and it makes me wish I had Nav! I don't mean to thread jack (as I am trying to figure out the wiring of the heated seat switch for another purpose), but am wondering if anyone has confirmed the above diagram? I'm a rookie with a multimeter (although I have a helper, my daughter's boyfriend who is a car audio nut), but it seems to me (us) that:
1=positive to high position
2=illumination of high pilot light
3=power from 12v source
4=positive to low posotion
5=8v illum from "headlights on" source
6=illumination of low pilot light

Anyone able to confirm or correct this?
Thanks:tiphat:

That certainly differs from the switch I was looking at, but that was in a GT-R. I have a 370z switch on order so will confirm when it arrives.

We appear to agree on 1, 3 & 4

I'm surprised there in no ground/earth in your list but will see when the switch arrives. Did you meter the plug while disconnected from the switch?

this stuff is so over my head. i understand a lot of concepts in various realms, but this is definitely not one of them.:confused:

LOL! I love this. :facepalm:

I will meter out my switch again today if I get the chance. I had to buy a new meter last night as the old one crapped the bed.

The reality is, we need the switch to act the way we want it too REGARDLESS of the way it behaves in the stock harness. As long as we can determine the reactions of the pins in either direction of the rocker, then all that is left to do is sort out the illumination.

I am going to go for the effect of illuminating the HI and LO lights for the vss disable and camera enable, but I am going to disable the centre illumination for the heated seat emblem. Probably paint over it or cover it whatever....

Lets do this the proper way.... the manual!!

Passenger side switch pins:

http://www.the370z.com/members/wheee...ger-switch.jpg

Driver side pins:

http://www.the370z.com/members/wheee...ers-switch.jpg

and FINALLY! The schematic for the wiring including the position of the diodes...

http://www.the370z.com/members/wheee...-schematic.jpg

All of these images were pulled from the 2010 manual

I should have gone there first... :facepalm:

I haven't done that yet, and I too was surprised there was no ground in my list. Hoping one you more experienced guys can help nail this down:tiphat:

Oops, quoted an earlier post before seeing Whee!'s post above. Can you translate that (thanks for the diagram, BTW) into English for noobs like me?

New layout of pins as follows:

4 5
2
1
3 6

So I think that this is what the schematic is saying...

Pin 4 is Gnd
Pin 1 is 12V
Pin 1 & 3 are short for the High seat temp setting (Pin 3 Hi output)
Pin 1 & 2 are short for the Lo seat temp setting (Pin 2 Hi Output)


Pin 5 is measured at 12V (constant supply)
Pin 6 is measured at 8 V (comes on with interior lights to illuminate the seat icon)
These are for the illumination circuit

:tup::tiphat:
Awesome, thanks!

This stuff makes my head hurt. My brain doesn't work this way. I can wire up a 3-way switch in my house, but I get into the car and :icon14:

I think you will find that is exactly what I posted :)
The only difference is the diagram is from the harness perspective and mine was from the switch

1 2
3
4
5 6
Mine looking at switch

4 5
2
1
3 6
Diagram from manual looking at harness

1 (3) 2 (6)
3 (1)
4 (2)
5 (4) 6 (5)
Showing both (harness in brackets)

The reason for the metering voltages between (5) and (6) is due to metering before and after the bulb.

This is actually awesome news as now we can wire the hi output (HI setting) from pin 3 to the relay to release the vss signal, and when we switch to the LO setting it will send a 12v signal from pin 2 directly to the reverse signal on pin 81 at the back of the av head. No extra diodes should be required.
What say you Brian?

Yes with a small micro relay we can use this switch.

Regarding the diodes you still want at least one diode so that the 12V doesn't back feed the car when the switch is engaged (remember we are tapping in to the existing wire not cutting it).

Given that the diodes cost cents I would probably also include the second so that when you put the car in reverse it didn't illuminate the button. I would need to double check the rest of the circuit diagram to see if that would actually happen but a diode would solve the problem either way.

Actually I think you have it reversed Brian...

Pin 4 is top left on the switch, top right on the harness. It is a black wire (indicating ground I assume) and next to it is pin 5 (red wire) which is 12v constant.

As for 5 & 6, are you saying that that is strictly for the centre "seat" icon to light up? That would make sense too if the LED's for the heat indicators are pulling their voltage from pin 1 (12v)

Sorry if this is becoming semantic at all, just trying to be as clear as possible!

Actually I agree with you on the diodes. Looking at the schematic it would still need protection from turning the switch lights on when you went into reverse etc. Good call!

Trust me its right, remember there is also harness side vs terminal side (HS vs TS) in the manual.

Correct the LEDs for switch position are getting there +12V from Pin 1 (pin 3 in my original diagram). The illumination for the center icon is separate.

No problem, for those buying a kit it wont matter :) for anyone taking the complete DIY approach it will probably need a photo or two ;)

I will never doubt you again.. I have been :owned:

:roflpuke2:

:tiphat:

:drama: This is more interesting than taking a class :tup:

pass the popcorn....

Hey, no eating inside the car please!

:icon18::iagree: 100% I am always like that!



Hey Brian do you have a group by going for the bypass yet or do you know if and when you will be?

I agree! And everyone on this thread is so, well, polite! Really interested in seeing all this get worked out :tup:

That's because we are all British or Canadian here.... hee hee :stirthepot:

Been off of the boards for a week. Any updates, Brian, Jeff?

THIS HERE's AMERICKER! FREEDOM FRIIIES! i mean... uh hey guys...

I now have the 32pin plugs and sockets required for the plug and play harness.

My test heated seat switch and plug are still on order from Nissan Parts, NISMO and Nissan Accessories - Courtesyparts.com

I have built the test harness used to check any harnesses I make (A laptop is used to check every connection is as it should be).

Given the holiday I'm not sure I will get the switch in time to complete before the end of the year but I should be in a position to make the kits in early January.

As soon as I have made the first kit to meet my final quality checks I will announce final pricing (I will do my best to keep the cost down).

Thanks Brian, I am in no hurry. I have been away and was just curious. Take your time and thanks for everything.

Still waiting for my heated seat switch too. The dealer also ordered a switch from a 350Z too. Will have to see how close they are....

Hi BDL99,

first of all: thanks for your great engagement, you are doing a super job!
I want also the bypass kit with the seat-header switch, and the rear-camera Kit without the camera.

I am from France, so you have to send the parts to France (Europe), I hope this isn`t a problem for you.
I will pay per paypal, is this ok for you?

best regards
Pascal

I'm in. Put me down for a switch model. thanks for paving the way for us electrical:tup: impared individuals.

Sending to France is no problem, I have sent packages to most of Europe and the only country that I've had problems with is Italy.

I have the camera kits in stock now, but the switch kits wont be available until the new year. I'm assuming you will want both to ship together?

Thanks, I've added you to the list.

Hi bld99,

yes, please ship both together.

It would be nice if you send me a mail with the prices

my eMail is kerberos610@orange.fr
Thanks