2010+ Plug and Play Bypass Kit (DVD, NAV and backup Camera override) Discussion
 

As suggested, time for a new thread.

The plan is to create a plug and play solution for those who don't want to cut and splice wires.

Looking to make the kit available in two flavors

Kit with single hardwired toggle switch
Forward On = Nav ByPass
Center Position = Normal/Off
Backward On = Camera Bypass (Backup camera without engaging reverse)

Parking Brake bypass permanent

Now generally available from Car Kit Company
Bypass Kit (switch) - Car Kit Company



Kit with remote
One button for Nav Bypass
One Button for Parking Brake bypass
One button for Backup Camera bypass
Spare button for? Suggestion on a postcard to ......

Now generally available from Car Kit Company
Bypass Kit (remote) - Car Kit Company


DIY instructions for those happy to cut and splice Some have reported images aren't appearing (Something strange going on with GoogleDocs)

Current interest:

Switch Kit
Osiris
wheee!
N8GTOL
tsolin01
Jeffblue (leaning towards)
djpathfinder
kellyefields

Remote Kit
dixon cider
PW370z

I'm in for the hardwired. Also for the permanent parking brake bypass (assuming that's what allows dvd playback while driving). And of course if it doesn't have any other adverse affect to the nav. That way, we would need one less button.

On a side note.....are the cameras that we've installed water resistant? Was thinking about this when washing my car....should i try to avoid spraying a water hose on it?

Either way I only intend using one switch based on feedback. The parking brake bypass allows you to watch a DVD with the parking brake off, but as soon as you go over 5mph you need the Nav/speed bypass to continue watching. So while it appears that there is no downside of a permanent parking brake bypass in reality you are probably always going to need to use it in conjunction with the Nav/Speed bypass. For that reason I think it might as well be on the same switch.

This gave me a little laugh, not because it isn't a good question but because the first post in the please create a new thread is about the old thread :) But anyway to answer you question; it is waterproof so I wouldn't be too worried but wouldn't take it deep sea diving either.

Yeah, if the back end of your car is under that much water to have the camera submerged, I think the camera is the least of your worries. :roflpuke2:

My only concern with the DVD Park Brake ground is that when you move the switch to bypass VSS for NAV, you are BREAKING the connection to VSS. When you want to watch DVD you need to ENGAGE the ground to the park brake. Opposite functions.

IMO, it is easier to just ground the Park Brake to avoid this conflict.

but that's why I routed the Stillen Gen III intakes out the hood and up the A pillars! To snorkle!!! :icon18:

As it is, a switch solution (three position rocker, on-off-on) would look like this:
Forward = normal driving position
Centre = VSS Bypass
Rearward = Camera On

Depending on the switch we might need to swap the first two. Also if we get a switch with a light then I would think off would be best for normal driving.

Understood, except most mechanical rocker switches do not offer a "off - on - on" solution due to their design. If we went with a slightly more technical switch with a circuit card to intelligently control the devices, we would have no issue. However, sourcing and cost become the issue...

but yes, I agree that a lighted switch might pose a problem in the VSS ON mode being always lit up

I didn't mean swap the switch I meant the function. What's wrong with On off On, with the middle position being off and push forward for DVD/Nav bypass and backwards for camera.

That's my point. The forward position "makes" a contact for the rear two poles of the switch. The centre position "breaks" the contacts of both sets of poles and the rear position "makes" the front two poles. Therefore "on-off-on"...

The "on" position forward is making a contact like the kind we need for VSS to be on all the time, the centre position would break the contact so that VSS was disabled for entering NAV info while driving (or watching DVD's) and the rear position would "make" the 12v contact for the backup camera.

sorry if I wasn't clear at first!

An alternative way to facilitate your method of forward being the VSS off and DVD enable would be to hook the forward position poles to a relay that would "break" the normally closed position...

I vote: A kit with a single hardwired toggle switch. Also, I like the sound of having the parking brake ground tied into the Nav Bypass instead of being on permanently. Bonus points if you can make the switch look like the stock plugs in the center console.

I have a seat heater switch on order to see if it can be rigged to do the job. It will of course be a perfect fit for the console.... As for the DVD bypass wired to the VSS break, I will have to work on that! Not as simple as it seems...

maybe this?

Full Size Rocker Switches - 1/4'' Tabs

... just brainstorming

:icon18: lol, ya, I posted that same link in the other thread. It is not the prettiest solution, but it would work.

i know theres some knobs that peope use for aftermarket stereos and stuff that mount in the center console, but i'm not sure what brand they are. the guy that bought my rays had one, i sent him a PM asking about it last night. I'm thinking if we had a little knob that mounted in the center console button (like the seat warmers on a g37, something that has 3-4 settings on it, maybe that could work. i think it would look cool. obv not a seat warmer knob, but a similar design.

http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:L...C00110.jpg&t=1
http://www.edmunds.com/pictures/EI/2...20313550-T.jpg
i know he had something like that in his car, so i'll have to wait and see what he says.

The heated seat switch is a three position rocker. It will perform the correct function depending on the design of the switch. If it is a logic circuit switch, then we might have problems. If it is solely a mechanical switch, we are good. My dealer says I will have it within the week. Downside is the switch is almost $40. Upside is the switch is a perfect match and fit for the console...

damn $40 i should have got the nissan switch. the snow switch for the infiniti was 80 from erickson infiniti

OH BTW it is a burlt mechanical switch

I'm in for the "Kit with single hardwired toggle switch".

Start the buy list Brian! Switch vs remote.

Started the list on the first post, I only went back through this thread and not the very long Backup Camera thread :)

Judging by the cost of the some of these switches the remote solution may end up being cheaper :)

wonder what the seat heater switch costs from Courtesy Parts....????

worth every penny if you can actually turn the snow off....

i'm leaning towards the switch kit.

I would have to go remote switch. I have a convertible, all of my empty spaces are taken, plus I have a switch for my headlight conversion. Another aftermarket switch will start to junk up my interior. Brian, put me down for the remote please.

Done and if you are the only one I'll make you a special limited edition one of a kind remote version :)

Awwwww, Saaawheeeeeaaaat!!!! Can it be numbered 1/1?:bowrofl:

well, brian already has the first one.

Ok. 2/2 will work. It's still an "exclusive" club. :icon17:

Allright, I took the snow cover off of RoZy and disassembled the console to get the pinouts for the seat heater switch.

This is the stock switch

http://www.the370z.com/members/wheee...ter-switch.jpg

http://www.the370z.com/members/wheee...0-pc030192.jpg

The pinouts are perfect for us here. The top right pin is full 12V input for the pilot lights above or below the Hi Lo indicators and the bottom right pin is 8V for the neon glow heated seat that comes on with the interior lighting.

The four pins on the left are exactly what you would expect two poles in each direction that engage as the switch is rocked forward or backward.

A sticker could be printed and applied above the existing heated seat info and we could then use the switch for forward VSS engaged normal driving, centre VSS Bypass, and rear Camera On.

There is even a handy 12V signal and 8V signal sitting at either of the two stock seat heater switches to draw from. If you don't have heated seats, you probably still have the harness in this location.

http://www.the370z.com/members/wheee...3-pc030197.jpg

and this is the generic rocker switch in the STDP config (on - on)

http://www.the370z.com/members/wheee...8-pc030208.jpg

http://www.the370z.com/members/wheee...7-pc030206.jpg

There is a generic switch that does on-off-on as well so ignore the fact that I have just the STDP switch for now.

When you rock forward you engage the two rear poles and when you rock backward you engage the front two poles.

This is a look at how it looks in the console. I'm not sure I could live with it...

http://www.the370z.com/members/wheee...ain-switch.jpg

It's not fully seated cuz I didn't want to fight to get it out, but you get the idea.

http://www.the370z.com/members/wheee...ain-switch.jpg

I am going to have to say that the heated seat switch is the classiest way to do this and now all we need to do is find a way to print up an adhesive label that will cover the stock info with the correct info and we will have a professional switch solution.

You may send cases of fine beer to me in appreciation. If you are too cheap for fine beer, rep points are always appreciated! ;)

Thanks for that, very helpful. Where is the earth for the light in the equation? Is the switch Lo/Hi switching earth and therefore common earth for the light?

I believe the earth (ground) will be the centre two poles on the left side. The 12V feeds to the Hi and Lo settings as they are selected so i believe they use the centre two pins for separate grounds so both lights don't come on at the same time.

I would also be interested in the kit with the REMOTE. :tup:

There goes my 2/2 plan. :p

OK, so 3/3 will work. Numbered though, and I want #2. BUT NO MORE!!

I would consider using the generic three position switch if the plastic was of higher quality and matched the interior better. Otherwise, the factory look is by far the best.

Perhaps the thread title should include 2010?

I think a sticker could be printed but a little tricky to cover the HI / LO and and say something else - could those be scraped off the surface of the switch or are they printed on the underside of the clear lens?

I wasn't certain so I thought I would go take my car to pieces and the switch looks be exactly the same. Did you meter in situ?

Looking at the switch

1 2
3
4
5 6

It looks to me like 2 and 6 are the illumination circuit and if measured in situ that would explain the lower voltage

3 is +12V from relay feed for heated seats
1 goes positive in one position (1 and 3 being connected)
4 goes positive in the other position (3 and 4 being connected)
5 is ground use to illuminate the position 1 and 2 lights based on position of switch

and obviously in the central position 3 isn't connected to either 1 or 4

yea, the seat warmer switch looks way better. i think the best look would be scraping off the 'hi' and 'low' text, masking off the clear area, and then painting the rest of the switch black.