Head unit discussion

cavemancan · 02-18-2019, 02:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mini_cal

Seicane is only a good option if your head unit is unique in terms of the trim and shape.

You can find a better/cheaper alternative if you want a Android HU.

I have yet to see a better unit then the seicanes so please share.

NorthStyle · 02-18-2019, 10:28 AM

I don't think so considering with a 7", the screen takes up so much of the space available.

CRiZO · 03-01-2019, 10:52 PM

******* nevermind, helping in this topic is a waste of time.

Corsairprime · 04-01-2019, 02:16 PM

Hey all, Here's my contribution. Thought some readers might be interested in this too.

Here is my experience with the Joying Android HU.

I did an install about a month or so ago of the Joying JY-UO135N4PX5S. It is Android 8.1.0 Oreo Double Din Head Unit with 4GB/64GB. I used the standard faceplate adapter kit off Amazon as well as the adapter cable that was in that kit. A bit of soldering and I was in business. I am using the factory Bose speakers, amp and Sub that came with the Nismo Bose audio setup. The only knock I have is the volume control at first use. The boosted unit output will rock you too hard if you are not careful. I have since learned to live with the issue. I can run Agama Car Launcher to lower the unit overall audio output if I need to. It has an additional volume control that can be enabled as part of the launcher app.

I have also since wired in the rear facing back-up camera to work with the reverse lamp wiring in the back of the car. I am happy with the results so far. For a minor outlay of cash you can swap out the crap Nissan HU and install something much more functional. I am not sure why this isn't a factory option on more cars these days.

Good luck with your install.

Teerex · 04-04-2019, 07:59 AM

Hi Corsairprime, I am noob for HU. What did you solder the wires to? Isn't there a harness that you can get without having to soldering? I have a base sport with boss without nav, and I planned on getring the same unit. TIA.

bigaudiofanat · 04-04-2019, 08:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Teerex

Hi Corsairprime, I am noob for HU. What did you solder the wires to? Isn't there a harness that you can get without having to soldering? I have a base sport with boss without nav, and I planned on getring the same unit. TIA.

You solder the metra harness to the harness of your new radio, you cut 3 wires in the factory radio and wire them to a steering wheel control module (grounding 1 of them) to have steering wheel controls with your new head unit. Solder is the best way to join the harnesses and make all connections solid.

Corsairprime · 04-04-2019, 02:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigaudiofanat

You solder the metra harness to the harness of your new radio, you cut 3 wires in the factory radio and wire them to a steering wheel control module (grounding 1 of them) to have steering wheel controls with your new head unit. Solder is the best way to join the harnesses and make all connections solid.

Yes, soldering the Dash kit wiring to the HU wiring is the magic here. I know, restating the obvious. It just depends on Bose or No-Bose. My thoughts are, if No-Bose. Do not solder the amp trigger wires together. Someone else can confirm or deny this for me. The Steering wheel controls are optional, kind of. But useful to have.

The only reason I say this is, it'll mean wire cutting in the dash to make the steering controls function. it's a tight space and the wires are tiny. I wanted to maintain the ability to re-install the factory Crap HU if needed. A personal preference.

Take it with a grain of salt.

Jayhovah · 04-04-2019, 05:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Corsairprime

Yes, soldering the Dash kit wiring to the HU wiring is the magic here. I know, restating the obvious. It just depends on Bose or No-Bose. My thoughts are, if No-Bose. Do not solder the amp trigger wires together. Someone else can confirm or deny this for me. The Steering wheel controls are optional, kind of. But useful to have.

The only reason I say this is, it'll mean wire cutting in the dash to make the steering controls function. it's a tight space and the wires are tiny. I wanted to maintain the ability to re-install the factory Crap HU if needed. A personal preference.

Take it with a grain of salt.

Don't necessarily have to cut the OEM wiring to add a steering wheel remote adapter.. I just pinned my radio harness adapter for those connections. Since the Z has no rear speakers, I just moved those wires over to the steering remote pins.

Additionally, if you are running one of these chinese android units - most of them already have resistive remote inputs so no adapter (like a ASWC) is even needed.

cavemancan · 04-11-2019, 12:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Corsairprime

Yes, soldering the Dash kit wiring to the HU wiring is the magic here. I know, restating the obvious. It just depends on Bose or No-Bose. My thoughts are, if No-Bose. Do not solder the amp trigger wires together. Someone else can confirm or deny this for me. The Steering wheel controls are optional, kind of. But useful to have.

The only reason I say this is, it'll mean wire cutting in the dash to make the steering controls function. it's a tight space and the wires are tiny. I wanted to maintain the ability to re-install the factory Crap HU if needed. A personal preference.

Take it with a grain of salt.

I was recommended this...might save the stock wiring...

Posi-Products Wire Tap

SouthArk370Z · 07-26-2019, 07:12 PM

For the whine, try giving the speaker wires a twist every 3-6 inches. See also: (unshielded) twisted pair wiring. Some filtering on the power input may help. Check shielding on interconnects.

RonRizz · 07-26-2019, 07:34 PM

coming in late, but a thread worth reading... Firstly, dont get too hung up on numbers where a head units freq resp is concerned inso far as SQ goes. Believe me, I have seen, heard, and installed many many many cheap *** head units that sounded ridiculously good when combined with the right installation, and other gear. Hell, My Titan has a $200 head unit and a $150 dsp in it, and sounds beautiful. I'm not versed on the android units, but it would have to be pretty shitty nowadays for you not to make it sound good.
I'm speculating here, but i will assume that the 45hz response would be limitations of the internal amplifier particularly since it claims to play down to 2 ohms.. However, if you use pre-amp outputs, you should have signal through the full range down to 20hz.
High res ready claims, and responses up to 40, even 50k hertz are total BS. The vast majority of people cant hear past 20k, less as you age. Your dog may love the 30k notes your hitting, though.
the Bass response issue you spoke of may be related to one or many things. Hell, it may be placebo effect, your recording media, the shape of your interior, location of your woofer, direction its pointed, windows down or up, ect, ect, ect. way too many variables to troubleshoot over an internet forum.
Many guys throwing good advice at you in here, but its just too complicated to diagnose without being there in person. Many times I had customers call with an issue, and my mind raced to a dozen different things it could be. I show up at their place with a truck full of tools and wire to find out they had the balance control 3 clicks left of center..lol
take your time, go over your gear and install process, wiring, ect and make it sound right to your ears, your car.

cavemancan · 08-15-2019, 06:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RonRizz

coming in late, but a thread worth reading... Firstly, dont get too hung up on numbers where a head units freq resp is concerned inso far as SQ goes. Believe me, I have seen, heard, and installed many many many cheap *** head units that sounded ridiculously good when combined with the right installation, and other gear. Hell, My Titan has a $200 head unit and a $150 dsp in it, and sounds beautiful. I'm not versed on the android units, but it would have to be pretty shitty nowadays for you not to make it sound good.
I'm speculating here, but i will assume that the 45hz response would be limitations of the internal amplifier particularly since it claims to play down to 2 ohms.. However, if you use pre-amp outputs, you should have signal through the full range down to 20hz.
High res ready claims, and responses up to 40, even 50k hertz are total BS. The vast majority of people cant hear past 20k, less as you age. Your dog may love the 30k notes your hitting, though.
the Bass response issue you spoke of may be related to one or many things. Hell, it may be placebo effect, your recording media, the shape of your interior, location of your woofer, direction its pointed, windows down or up, ect, ect, ect. way too many variables to troubleshoot over an internet forum.
Many guys throwing good advice at you in here, but its just too complicated to diagnose without being there in person. Many times I had customers call with an issue, and my mind raced to a dozen different things it could be. I show up at their place with a truck full of tools and wire to find out they had the balance control 3 clicks left of center..lol
take your time, go over your gear and install process, wiring, ect and make it sound right to your ears, your car.

Thanks for the response(s)...

Ron...After messing around with the Filters on the amps I think I finally got it sounding more or less how I want. Don't get me wrong it sounds awesome and Bass hits hard with some songs but I noticed that the stock Bose system did a better job Bass wise while playing Rock...Then again playing electronic music is SOOOOOOOO much better with the new setup. In order to replicate the bass response of the stock Bose I need to set the gain on the Cerwin Vega spare tire sub to max and dial in 40% bass boost. I guess my complaint is I keep having to adjust the dang subs remote control to get it to sound great. Could be that the JL Audio components with the Punch amp are out shining the sub at high volumes. This is my guess anyways. I am nit picking really cause at normal levels the system is great!

cavemancan · 08-15-2019, 06:13 PM

For everyone else...If your considering getting an ATOTO head unit a word of caution:

I have found a flaw that drives me absolutely INSANE! To the point that I am considering selling the head unit and getting something else. While connected to the Hot spot from my phone (plenty of reception confirmed by speedtest 60 + Mbps and phone literally under the head unit) using Waze & Spotify both apps sometimes take 20 min to realize network connectivity is available. I kid you not! I reboot the head unit and nothing! So I decide to just drive...GPS is working cause the map is updating as I drive but I can't get any traffic data and the app keep saying "Waiting on Network" (I think thats the wording). 10 minutes from my destination after being on the road for 30 min already boom traffic data starts working! Now this was not always the case...In the beginning it worked great but all of a sudden crap.

Mind you I am a systems engineer so I know how to diagnose wireless...System has an IP address, phone has plenty of bandwidth, happens regardless of vehicle location so that eliminates interference, system indicates internet access under WIFI menu but the APPS are oblivious. Could be a programming issue with the app but still investigating. So I wont say it sucks just yet but I'm almost there LOL!

cavemancan · 08-15-2019, 06:16 PM

SUUUUUUUUCCCCCCKKKKKSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS!!!!!!!!!!

The End

FIN

FOE GETA BOUT IT

Sound quality is garbage compared to playing from the installed apps and volume is also affected.

2011 Nismo#91 · 08-16-2019, 06:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cavemancan

using Waze & Spotify both apps sometimes take 20 min to realize network connectivity is available.

I think this is an issue with Waze and wifi in general. It happens on my Galaxy Note9 too when connected to a hot spot.

https://www.waze.com/forum/viewtopic...40794&start=10

03-01-2019, 10:52 PM	#3 (permalink)
CRiZO Track Member Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: Dallas Posts: 672 Drives: in traffic Rep Power: 20700	******* nevermind, helping in this topic is a waste of time. Last edited by CRiZO; 03-03-2019 at 08:07 AM.

04-01-2019, 02:16 PM	#4 (permalink)
Corsairprime Base Member Join Date: May 2014 Location: Frisco, TX Posts: 215 Drives: 14 370Z Nismo GM 6MT Rep Power: 3547	Hey all, Here's my contribution. Thought some readers might be interested in this too. Here is my experience with the Joying Android HU. I did an install about a month or so ago of the Joying JY-UO135N4PX5S. It is Android 8.1.0 Oreo Double Din Head Unit with 4GB/64GB. I used the standard faceplate adapter kit off Amazon as well as the adapter cable that was in that kit. A bit of soldering and I was in business. I am using the factory Bose speakers, amp and Sub that came with the Nismo Bose audio setup. The only knock I have is the volume control at first use. The boosted unit output will rock you too hard if you are not careful. I have since learned to live with the issue. I can run Agama Car Launcher to lower the unit overall audio output if I need to. It has an additional volume control that can be enabled as part of the launcher app. I have also since wired in the rear facing back-up camera to work with the reverse lamp wiring in the back of the car. I am happy with the results so far. For a minor outlay of cash you can swap out the crap Nissan HU and install something much more functional. I am not sure why this isn't a factory option on more cars these days. Good luck with your install. __________________ Corsairprime 2014 Nismo #462, GunMetal Grey, GT-R Start Button, AAM S-Line/R-Line intake and S-Line exhaust, Berk HFCs, Osiris Tuned at JoTech

07-26-2019, 07:12 PM	#10 (permalink)
SouthArk370Z Premium Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: South Arkansas Posts: 8,435 Drives: 2014 Challenger Rep Power: 324199	For the whine, try giving the speaker wires a twist every 3-6 inches. See also: (unshielded) twisted pair wiring. Some filtering on the power input may help. Check shielding on interconnects. __________________ Steering Lock Links - Search The370Z Bookmarklet - FSM @ NICOclub Mankind has progressed past the need for war but we haven't evolved that far. - NachoMahma

07-26-2019, 07:34 PM	#11 (permalink)
RonRizz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Pine grove, Pa Posts: 2,136 Drives: 2 feet, 3 pedals Rep Power: 6777	coming in late, but a thread worth reading... Firstly, dont get too hung up on numbers where a head units freq resp is concerned inso far as SQ goes. Believe me, I have seen, heard, and installed many many many cheap *** head units that sounded ridiculously good when combined with the right installation, and other gear. Hell, My Titan has a $200 head unit and a $150 dsp in it, and sounds beautiful. I'm not versed on the android units, but it would have to be pretty shitty nowadays for you not to make it sound good. I'm speculating here, but i will assume that the 45hz response would be limitations of the internal amplifier particularly since it claims to play down to 2 ohms.. However, if you use pre-amp outputs, you should have signal through the full range down to 20hz. High res ready claims, and responses up to 40, even 50k hertz are total BS. The vast majority of people cant hear past 20k, less as you age. Your dog may love the 30k notes your hitting, though. the Bass response issue you spoke of may be related to one or many things. Hell, it may be placebo effect, your recording media, the shape of your interior, location of your woofer, direction its pointed, windows down or up, ect, ect, ect. way too many variables to troubleshoot over an internet forum. Many guys throwing good advice at you in here, but its just too complicated to diagnose without being there in person. Many times I had customers call with an issue, and my mind raced to a dozen different things it could be. I show up at their place with a truck full of tools and wire to find out they had the balance control 3 clicks left of center..lol take your time, go over your gear and install process, wiring, ect and make it sound right to your ears, your car. __________________ P99rs Head Unit--- Amps- 2 Pioneer Prs800d --- Zapco ST1000MX---Zapco ST-4XSQ---- SI BM mk5 Subs---SI TM65v2 Midbass--- SI M3 mids--- SI M25 xbl2 tweeters ----- 2016 MECA street class 3rd place at world finals

08-15-2019, 06:13 PM	#13 (permalink)
cavemancan Enthusiast Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Miami Posts: 302 Drives: 09 370Z TourSport MT Rep Power: 251	ATOTO Review For everyone else...If your considering getting an ATOTO head unit a word of caution: I have found a flaw that drives me absolutely INSANE! To the point that I am considering selling the head unit and getting something else. While connected to the Hot spot from my phone (plenty of reception confirmed by speedtest 60 + Mbps and phone literally under the head unit) using Waze & Spotify both apps sometimes take 20 min to realize network connectivity is available. I kid you not! I reboot the head unit and nothing! So I decide to just drive...GPS is working cause the map is updating as I drive but I can't get any traffic data and the app keep saying "Waiting on Network" (I think thats the wording). 10 minutes from my destination after being on the road for 30 min already boom traffic data starts working! Now this was not always the case...In the beginning it worked great but all of a sudden crap. Mind you I am a systems engineer so I know how to diagnose wireless...System has an IP address, phone has plenty of bandwidth, happens regardless of vehicle location so that eliminates interference, system indicates internet access under WIFI menu but the APPS are oblivious. Could be a programming issue with the app but still investigating. So I wont say it sucks just yet but I'm almost there LOL! __________________ Mazda Rx8 MT Titanium - SOLD! 2009 370Z T-Sport MT Black - Takeda Intake, Swift springs, Rear Camber kit, SS B Lines, FI Exhaust, Z Speed CMAK Flywheel/Clutch Kit, Stillen Brake Cooling.

02-18-2019, 10:28 AM	#2 (permalink)
NorthStyle A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Deutschland + SC/FL USA Posts: 1,313 Drives: 2011 370Z Nismo Rep Power: 24279	I don't think so considering with a 7", the screen takes up so much of the space available.

04-04-2019, 07:59 AM	#5 (permalink)
Teerex Base Member Join Date: Aug 2017 Location: Toronto Posts: 4 Drives: None Rep Power: 9	Hi Corsairprime, I am noob for HU. What did you solder the wires to? Isn't there a harness that you can get without having to soldering? I have a base sport with boss without nav, and I planned on getring the same unit. TIA.

08-15-2019, 06:16 PM	#14 (permalink)
cavemancan Enthusiast Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Miami Posts: 302 Drives: 09 370Z TourSport MT Rep Power: 251	ATOTO - Apple Car Play Dongle SUUUUUUUUCCCCCCKKKKKSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS!!!!!!!!!! The End FIN FOE GETA BOUT IT Sound quality is garbage compared to playing from the installed apps and volume is also affected. __________________ Mazda Rx8 MT Titanium - SOLD! 2009 370Z T-Sport MT Black - Takeda Intake, Swift springs, Rear Camber kit, SS B Lines, FI Exhaust, Z Speed CMAK Flywheel/Clutch Kit, Stillen Brake Cooling.

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