What is your drag wheel set up?

andre12031948

There are so many posts about modding cars yet as you can see no one responds to posts on actually using those mods for what they were intended for.
Once I saw an import car with it's hood open exposing/showing a ton of pipes/modifications/turbo. I was impressed so I walked over to the owner and asked how quick his car was? He looked down at me & said "I don't race it". Soon it started to rain, yet the hood stayed open for a long time. I scratched my head and realized that some people spend many thousands building cars just to open the hood

You're one of the few into drag racing. That's refreshing & I'm just not used to it. I'll just say two things then stop my past type of talking. GT-r's are all wheel drive automatics Yes N/A cars NEED 4:08 gears, but your car is/will be far from N/A. Now I'm done

Not to waist your high H.P car you have to use slicks & drag racing wheels. I believe mine are on 15" wheels. Anyway wheels come & should be 15" or 16" to match slicks that are produced. Reason for that is that slicks have thin side walls and much rubber, as apposed to being thin. That's because the more rubber = more rubber taking the brunt of the take off, as apposed to spinning the tires or putting that pressure on the chassis.

To do that you can't use bigger, heavier, after market brake discs & calipers. First the wheels have to fit, second heavy after market discs are build for road racing or of course for showing to friends but heavier/bigger discs, just like heavy wheels rob car's H.P.
Good luck with your venture.

V8Killer

The guy you walked over and asked about his car was it at the track or a car show? I'm all about some bling if it serves a purpose for the most part yes maybe my billet aluminum battery brace with a z emblem on it is overkill but it does have a purpose lol. I guess it's all in how you justify it. I was looking into just upgrading the pads and getting some better rotors. Are you running skinny's? Drag racing for this car is def. an up hill battle and not many people have experience in it with this particular car. I hear what your saying there are so many factors I have to look at and honestly it sucks. The Driveshaft Shop | NISSAN 2009- 370Z / G37 1200HP Pro-Level Axles - 370Z / G37 - Nissan - Import Axles
This is what I am currently looking into but this is overkill. I am waiting on my sisters bf to tell me if the rim itself is bent as there was some wobble when I had the car up on jacks letting it spin freely. Thank you for the reply

__________________
"Punch"

Too much to list and a baby shot of nitrous....

andre12031948

For 3 years I raced with completely stock rear with 3:90 gears. The last 2 years of that was with Hoosier slicks & skinnies in the front but the car was N/A & mostly stock. It took me many months to learn how to use/take advantage of the slicks. Considering that I used stock intakes & even the muffler/exhaust, I did extremely good times.
A few months ago I bought from this site a whole STOCK 4:08 set up. It was available close to my house, good price & my rpm at the finish line showed me that I needed them. The result was that my 1/4 mile times gained a tenth & quicker 60' times. Out of the last apx. 15 run(3 times at track) apx. 12 were in the 12.4's with 12.419 best. All those 12.4's were with 1.6 60' times. That was with ALL factory stock rear parts & O breakage, nothing. However I had to use the water & brake lock to spin/heat up the tires. My thoughts are, why change things if everything works fine. Also modding may never end, so I started racing/getting experience & having fun before I did all the mods(which were a few.
So you can add everything then race, or race after doing some mods & see the results & have fun & get experience. Make sense?