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Originally Posted by Driftomodachi I wouldn't replace studs for track. Track duty sees more torsional stress on the lengthened studs which can stretch or break the studs and cause the
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#1 (permalink) | |
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Base Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Virginia
Posts: 35
Drives: 07 Porsche Cayman S
Rep Power: 13 ![]() |
Quote:
I was sold on only doing this using the stud replacement type spacer but now that I read it this way, it looks like the bolt on might be the better choice. Which is the better choice from a durability standpoint and not just an "easy install" point of view? Seems to me that the fewer mechanical connections holding the wheel to the hub the better, but now I'm second-guessing that idea. I tend to break things that I drive and I don't want my wheels to be the weak link. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Track Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Spring Hill, FL
Posts: 547
Drives: 09 7AT 370Z
Rep Power: 18 ![]() ![]() |
I do not plan on ever tracking my car. What is the difference? Are the replacement studs stronger and able to take more force for track use?
__________________
Stillen Gen3 CAI|Berk HFC and CBE|UpRev|15mm H&R front spacers|20mm Ichiba rear spacers|Stillen front and rear sway bars|Yokohama S. Drives|Swift springs|JDM Blinking Fog|8000k HIDs|9% window tinting, 47% on full windshield |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Administrator
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Disneyland
Posts: 8,736
Drives: 🔰
Rep Power: 10 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Just safer since in a track the last thing you want to happen is for one of those adapters to come loose, And mind you it's a safety precaution since I've not heard of any issues with ver 2 which is to say there isn't any.
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#4 (permalink) |
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Track Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Spring Hill, FL
Posts: 547
Drives: 09 7AT 370Z
Rep Power: 18 ![]() ![]() |
Any pictures of 15mm in the front and 20mm in the rear?
Edit: found this: http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...r-install.html DIY: ** Rear 20mm stud replacement spacers I looked up the Ichiba spacers on their website and found that the Version 1s are slightly cheaper than the Version 2s. Hell...it might take more work, but you're saving money.
__________________
Stillen Gen3 CAI|Berk HFC and CBE|UpRev|15mm H&R front spacers|20mm Ichiba rear spacers|Stillen front and rear sway bars|Yokohama S. Drives|Swift springs|JDM Blinking Fog|8000k HIDs|9% window tinting, 47% on full windshield Last edited by joshs09slvrZ; 10-06-2011 at 08:10 PM. |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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Base Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: St. Louis
Posts: 116
Drives: '11 370Z 6MT Sport
Rep Power: 16 ![]() |
Quote:
Might have to just buy H&R DRS style and not use the extended studs... |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Base Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: MA
Posts: 184
Drives: 11 370Z SP MT Gunmet
Rep Power: 15 ![]() |
Does anyone know if i can put the bolt-on spacers up front if i get 20~25 MM spacers? would 25 be too much up front? i'm gonna get swifts in spring. I want to do 20F 25Rs with the sp Rays, but i dont wanna change studs lol
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