Negative Offset on Some Meats

[Mike_O_Nite]

Hi Guys!

I've searched "negative offsets" but I have only found scenarios where the tires needed to be stretched. I'm not a big fan of the exposed lip/stretched look, but to each their own.

What I was looking for: does anyone have some input on running 19x11 wheels with negative offsets, but the kicker is that they must be on some meaty tires... aaaand, I'd prefer not to run some crazy negative camber.

I know that there's a ton of space for our rears, but exactly how much?

For reference, I'm currently running 19x11 +10 [Work Emotion T5R 2P wheels] at stock height (for now) on some meats [Michelin PSS in 325/30R19]...it does poke, but not that bad...and if/when I do lower Lola (she always gets, what she aims for...), she'll sit even better.



As a potential wheel, I'm looking at the Meister M1 in 19x11 -13 (or zero offset set if negative 13 offset is too much).

Would that wheel work/fit with my current Michelins? I may lower the car in the future, but for now, I'd like to see if that offset would work with some meaty tires. Is the only issue that the wheels would be poking out another 23mm? Would backspacing be a potential issue (I imagine that it won't or am I overlooking something)?

Look forward to hearing your thoughts and suggestions (and please be gentle, I honestly looked around our site).

[crazy4oldcars]

Ummmmm.....
My understanding is... Negative offset will push the tire out, away from center.
Offset is all in the wheel.
0 is centered in the beads.
+ (Positive) offset moves the face of the wheel towards the outside of the wheel, thus pushing the inside of the rim towards the center of the car.
- (Negative) offset moves the face of the wheel towards the inside of the wheel, thus pushing the inside of the rim away from the center of the car.
(The hub of the axle always stays the same distance from the centerline of the car.)
As I read your numbers, you will be moving the wheels 23mm (~1") out from center vs what you have now.
You doing a wide body kit? **(smiley face). {Tapatalk apparently doesn't "do" imojis...}



Kirk B.

[Mike_O_Nite]

Originally Posted by crazy4oldcars

Ummmmm.....
My understanding is... Negative offset will push the tire out, away from center.
Offset is all in the wheel.
0 is centered in the beads.
+ (Positive) offset moves the face of the wheel towards the outside of the wheel, thus pushing the inside of the rim towards the center of the car.
- (Negative) offset moves the face of the wheel towards the inside of the wheel, thus pushing the inside of the rim away from the center of the car.
(The hub of the axle always stays the same distance from the centerline of the car.)
As I read your numbers, you will be moving the wheels 23mm (~1") out from center vs what you have now.
You doing a wide body kit?



Kirk B.

Not doing a widebody setup (at least, no plans, but never say never)...just looking to maximize the rear lip.

[NorthStyle]

Are you currently on the stock suspension (or was it stock height)? Also, assuming you're only at stock height: what suspension components/arms do you have on the car?

If you're planning on staying at stock height, pushing the wheels out further and further will look pretty terrible IMO. Not only that, you won't need any (severe) negative camber because it's highly unlikely that the wheels on your car, even while poking 2", will come into contact with the fender because the car doesn't have that much suspension travel.

I'd suggest lowering your car first, then going from there. But, I'll let OZ chime in...

[OptionZero]

Height
Camber
Rolled and pulled fenders
Your definition of meaty

DPE_G ran 20x11+0 with 285 at -2 camber
He had room to spare

my guess is that 19x11 -13 will be too far out for stock body and your definition of “meaty”, unless maybe you go air.


As a side note, I think you’re incorrectly fixated on the concept of “negative offsets”. Offset is only meaningful in conjunction with width

You could run a 19x10 with “negative offset” of -13 but obviously that sits differently than 19x11 -13. Its really just math

My suggestion is to find the stance you like, based on how the wheel/tire sits, the height, and the camber, and worry less about whether the offset is ‘’negative”

It’s like going to KFC ordering a six piece meal. IT HAS TO BE SIX PIECES. Well, six pieces of drums ain’t the same as six pieces of fish. Or breasts. Or shrimp

Isn’t it way better to decide what protein you want and how much food, then pick the meal that gets you that than fixating on the number of items?


EDIT:
seems like you’ve gone through multiple sets of very expensive wheels which tells me you aren’t a broke boy. I’d spend that cash on good coilovers and the full SPL catalog and then you can play with whatever sizing you want. Before ordering a custom spec 3pc wheel like the meister u can set your height and use different spacers and your existing wheel/tires to check for clearance. Find the spec u want then order that

[OptionZero]

Work Meisters S1 3P / Nismo Recaro Seats

Justin boy has 19x11 -3 rears. I think that’s a 305 rear

[OptionZero]

Wiggins3377's 40th Anniversary Z

Wiggins has prototype spec Advan GT in 20x12 +13 with 325/30/20 Toyos

If that is the level of meat u want then that’s how much camber ur gonna have to run. His tires are too tall but Toyo, his sponsor, forced him to use them. A shorter tire will help, but u can see how it sits.

[justin_boy]

Okay so my on my Meisters the rear is 11 in -3 offset. I was running 295/30 ps4’s and I had to run -6 camber but that was because I was trying to achieve a super aggressive stance. Within 1000 miles my tires were almost done haha. Before the suspension was lowered all the way, I was sitting above tire with -4 camber and I was poking way too much and that was with the nismo flares still

Imo, if you don’t plan on going hot boi fitment, -13 is a lil too much, I wouldn’t go under a 5 offset on an 11” wheel. -13 with meat will look like a bronco even with all the camber in the world

[Mike_O_Nite]

Originally Posted by OptionZero

Height
Camber
Rolled and pulled fenders
Your definition of meaty

DPE_G ran 20x11+0 with 285 at -2 camber
He had room to spare

my guess is that 19x11 -13 will be too far out for stock body and your definition of “meaty”, unless maybe you go air.


As a side note, I think you’re incorrectly fixated on the concept of “negative offsets”. Offset is only meaningful in conjunction with width

You could run a 19x10 with “negative offset” of -13 but obviously that sits differently than 19x11 -13. Its really just math

My suggestion is to find the stance you like, based on how the wheel/tire sits, the height, and the camber, and worry less about whether the offset is ‘’negative”

It’s like going to KFC ordering a six piece meal. IT HAS TO BE SIX PIECES. Well, six pieces of drums ain’t the same as six pieces of fish. Or breasts. Or shrimp

Isn’t it way better to decide what protein you want and how much food, then pick the meal that gets you that than fixating on the number of items?


EDIT:
seems like you’ve gone through multiple sets of very expensive wheels which tells me you aren’t a broke boy. I’d spend that cash on good coilovers and the full SPL catalog and then you can play with whatever sizing you want. Before ordering a custom spec 3pc wheel like the meister u can set your height and use different spacers and your existing wheel/tires to check for clearance. Find the spec u want then order that

I’m now a broke boy, for sure!

Thanks for all of the help and info!! I guess I saw meaty as wide, not thick...

Definitely makes sense to situate the height first before I go any broker.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[15 370Z]

I am using a 20x12 +15 rear wheel with 305/30/20. -2.5* camber. Looks very meaty not super stretched. I purchased the SPL parts and coilovers prior to wheels... All adjustable control arms allows you to dial in whatever wheel and fit you are looking for.

[OptionZero]

Originally Posted by justin_boy

Okay so my on my Meisters the rear is 11 in -3 offset. I was running 295/30 ps4’s and I had to run -6 camber but that was because I was trying to achieve a super aggressive stance. Within 1000 miles my tires were almost done haha. Before the suspension was lowered all the way, I was sitting above tire with -4 camber and I was poking way too much and that was with the nismo flares still

Imo, if you don’t plan on going hot boi fitment, -13 is a lil too much, I wouldn’t go under a 5 offset on an 11” wheel. -13 with meat will look like a bronco even with all the camber in the world

Your camber is high because of the stupid flares you didnt remove

[justin_boy]

Originally Posted by OptionZero

Work Meisters S1 3P / Nismo Recaro Seats

Justin boy has 19x11 -3 rears. I think that’s a 305 rear

awwwe i feel so special

[justin_boy]

Originally Posted by OptionZero

Your camber is high because of the stupid flares you didnt remove

i have no idea why im so obsessed with those damn things....i just love how they look

they're halfway off right now cause of the meisters hahaha

[Mike_O_Nite]

Originally Posted by NorthStyle

Are you currently on the stock suspension (or was it stock height)? Also, assuming you're only at stock height: what suspension components/arms do you have on the car?

If you're planning on staying at stock height, pushing the wheels out further and further will look pretty terrible IMO. Not only that, you won't need any (severe) negative camber because it's highly unlikely that the wheels on your car, even while poking 2", will come into contact with the fender because the car doesn't have that much suspension travel.

I'd suggest lowering your car first, then going from there. But, I'll let OZ chime in...

All stock suspension and height...may go with some Fortune Auto coilovers before I go and spend dough on yet-another-set-of-wheels. When I learn how to sh!t out money, I'll let my Z community know the secret...

Originally Posted by OptionZero

Height
Camber
Rolled and pulled fenders
Your definition of meaty

DPE_G ran 20x11+0 with 285 at -2 camber
He had room to spare

my guess is that 19x11 -13 will be too far out for stock body and your definition of “meaty”, unless maybe you go air.


As a side note, I think you’re incorrectly fixated on the concept of “negative offsets”. Offset is only meaningful in conjunction with width

You could run a 19x10 with “negative offset” of -13 but obviously that sits differently than 19x11 -13. Its really just math

My suggestion is to find the stance you like, based on how the wheel/tire sits, the height, and the camber, and worry less about whether the offset is ‘’negative”

It’s like going to KFC ordering a six piece meal. IT HAS TO BE SIX PIECES. Well, six pieces of drums ain’t the same as six pieces of fish. Or breasts. Or shrimp

Isn’t it way better to decide what protein you want and how much food, then pick the meal that gets you that than fixating on the number of items?


EDIT:
seems like you’ve gone through multiple sets of very expensive wheels which tells me you aren’t a broke boy. I’d spend that cash on good coilovers and the full SPL catalog and then you can play with whatever sizing you want. Before ordering a custom spec 3pc wheel like the meister u can set your height and use different spacers and your existing wheel/tires to check for clearance. Find the spec u want then order that

I wasn't necessarily fixated on the the negative offset, I was just trying to maximize the lip. The normal "safe" choice for the Meister M1s would be +13 offset, but I was just pushing the envelope a little (or a lot, lol).

Thanks OZ, you're a major asset to the whole Z fam!!

Oh and a sidenote question...not that I'm planning on building a showcar, but does anyone know how easy/hard it is to disassemble the SPL components to get them powdercoated? Black's a little too boring, plus I have a good shop I go to, so I was just thinking out loud. If it's too much work, that's fine too.

[OptionZero]

Get the nismo versions in silver/red

But otherwise I think u can just unbolt them
Ask Spl direct

Huge waste since no one can see them tho