Spacer options

Mike

I have Nismo Rays wheels from the accessory catalog, but they are stock spec. With the longer studs, I can't run my street wheels without spacers on front, but my track wheels (350Z Rays) use open lug nuts, and with the spacers I get vibration, without I don't. I think if the spacer ring went just 2-3 mm deeper into the wheel hub, they would be perfect.

I think by 2 piece, he meant that the hubcentric ring is a different piece than the actual spacer.

I have no problems with my 25mm rear spacers, but when I ran 20mm ones, the original wheel studs protruded past the spacer and the wheels wouldn't go on because they don't have relief holes on the back side in the proper location to clear the protruding studs.

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NISSAN: 75 280Z / 86 300ZX GLL /87 Sentra SE / 03 350Z / 23 Z
Porsche: 93 968 / 23 Macan GTS / 93 968

Z1Performance

On every spacer known to man the hubring is separate from the spacer You can't make it 1 piece. The hub on the car is 66.1mm. The lip you see on the spacer is 66.1mm. Most aftermarket wheels have a hub bore of 73.1mm. The hubcentric spacer is used to take up that difference between 73.1 and 66.1.

If you are using longer studs without the spacers you will need extended lugs, or open lugs.

You might just be finding an anomoly with the 350Z Rays wheels, not sure. Perhaps take them to a machinist and see if you can increase the hub depth. Won't do any damage to the wheel so long as there is sufficient meat there, and you may eliminate the issue altogether. I've never tried using them on those. I know we use them on my car (Work VS-TX), and one of our other Z's here (on a set of Fikse's and a set of Volks) and they work flawlessly, no vibration, etc

Any wheel running the type 2 needs the extra holes in the back, or unfortunately they won't fit - you would need to use the type 1's for that scenario

Mike

I think the reason you guys aren't having problems, is that you are using tapered lug nuts with those wheels. The stock wheels and the Nismos that I have use those shank lugs, which don't have any self centering abilities like tapered lugs. However, I use the tapered lugs with my track wheels, and I still have vibration, just not as bad.

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NISSAN: 75 280Z / 86 300ZX GLL /87 Sentra SE / 03 350Z / 23 Z
Porsche: 93 968 / 23 Macan GTS / 93 968

antennahead

That's funny, I have the H&R spacers in my hand, they haven't been mounted on the car yet, and the hubring is a part of the spacer, machined as one piece, so apparantly everyone else is doing the hubring as a separate piece, except H&R. I'm not stating that a two piece would perform differently, but I opted for the one piece H&Rs.

John

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Time is a companion, who goes with us on the journey, and reminds us to cherish every moment............ because it will never come again

Mike

can you measure how far the hub ring extends from the spacer into the wheel for me?

ichibas are approx 8mm and the slight taper in the wheel hub would prefer about 13mm.

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NISSAN: 75 280Z / 86 300ZX GLL /87 Sentra SE / 03 350Z / 23 Z
Porsche: 93 968 / 23 Macan GTS / 93 968

antennahead

Yes, BRB. It appears to be about 11MM. I say "about" because my ruler has a little extra at the beginning past the "zero" point.

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Time is a companion, who goes with us on the journey, and reminds us to cherish every moment............ because it will never come again

Z1Performance

I see what you mean John, I misunderstood what you were referring to

It won't make any difference as you said, as the hubring does not bear any load - it's merely there to square the wheel against the hub

antennahead

Correct, and I didn't mean to imply anything negative against Ichiba, I just happened to hook up with Paul and decided to get the H&Rs. Thanks.

John

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Time is a companion, who goes with us on the journey, and reminds us to cherish every moment............ because it will never come again