Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike
I have Nismo Rays wheels from the accessory catalog, but they are stock spec. With the longer studs, I can't run my street wheels without spacers on front, but my track wheels (350Z Rays) use open lug nuts, and with the spacers I get vibration, without I don't. I think if the spacer ring went just 2-3 mm deeper into the wheel hub, they would be perfect.
I think by 2 piece, he meant that the hubcentric ring is a different piece than the actual spacer.
I have no problems with my 25mm rear spacers, but when I ran 20mm ones, the original wheel studs protruded past the spacer and the wheels wouldn't go on because they don't have relief holes on the back side in the proper location to clear the protruding studs.
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On every spacer known to man the hubring is separate from the spacer
You can't make it 1 piece. The hub on the car is 66.1mm. The lip you see on the spacer is 66.1mm. Most aftermarket wheels have a hub bore of 73.1mm. The hubcentric spacer is used to take up that difference between 73.1 and 66.1.
If you are using longer studs without the spacers you will need extended lugs, or open lugs.
You might just be finding an anomoly with the 350Z Rays wheels, not sure. Perhaps take them to a machinist and see if you can increase the hub depth. Won't do any damage to the wheel so long as there is sufficient meat there, and you may eliminate the issue altogether. I've never tried using them on those. I know we use them on my car (Work VS-TX), and one of our other Z's here (on a set of Fikse's and a set of Volks) and they work flawlessly, no vibration, etc
Any wheel running the type 2 needs the extra holes in the back, or unfortunately they won't fit - you would need to use the type 1's for that scenario