A wideband is an oxygen sensor. It's what's on the other end of the AFR gauge. You could choose to run a vacuum block, but you'll likely still have to tap the manifold for the "in" to the vacuum block. You've got to get a pressure reading from somewhere. The block is just a cleaner way to run the vacuum lines so you don't have a bunch of T fittings everywhere.

Where does this uprev cable connect? The same place as the obd2? Do I need to hook a PC or laptop to it and run a program?

Will a FI car still pass inspection in TX?

You plug it into the OBD port and use their software on your laptop. A car in TX passes inspection if it doesn't have any CELs.

heres what I have, it is not all needed, I did not do a rad tho, technically you could slap the BP kit on and go but it is not ideal IMO.

BP kit was 7500
clutch/csc 1200
gauges(AEM failsafe read boost and AFR, also did oil pressure and ATI center cubby pod) 500
Z1 engine and trans mounts 300
whiteline diff bushings 100
I was already tuned NA, so my retune will be less but RT is about 700 or 800 for a FI tune, but I have a license already, I will only pay dyno time.

I have other upgrades buy they do not pertain to boost. I also work in a shop and do all my own labor. I am going to run with the OE rad for now, but I will most likely make some bumper modifications to improve air flow.

It is sounding like adding FI to your Z is probably not in your best financial interest. A couple of things to note:

- You should not consider boosting a NA factory car if you are still paying a note
- Although it should be pretty reliable, it's a boosted NA factory car. You are going to have things break.
- If you want to go back to school, that's where your money is best spent. You can always buy toys later.
- Make sure that on top of your $12-15k spent on the kit, you have another $4-6k sitting around in the event you pop a motor.

Pretty good list and mine is similar. I would say that the upgraded radiator is a must cuz he lives here in Houston. Get's real hot here and traffic is horrible.

Agreed, it would suck to be making payments on a broken car if something happens.
Maintenance is paramount, and you need to be able to fix minor issues on your own,
Better toys.
Yep. A "**** happened" fund is a necessity.

my thoughts exactly jwick but that don't mean I i can't still want and can window shop. I'm not adamant on going fi, it just sound cool and fun. It's also not a priority either.delayed gratification sucks at times.

Ohh I forgot to add that the research and knowledge gain in itself is fun.

Agreed and we are more than willing to answer whatever questions you have. I've done a lot of research over the months preparing myself as much as I can but know there is still much to learn.

Required:
X Brand Twin Turbo
X Row Oil Cooler
Engine Oil
Injector Set: 6x1050cc
Oil Cooler Block off plate (for colder climates)
Uprev Fees and Tuning
Coolant
AFR/Boost Gauges + Mounting

Good to do sooner then later:
OS Giken Twin Plate w/ Damper
Lightweight Flywheel
Clutch Slave Cylinder Upgrade
Oil Psi Gauges

Additional Performance:
Test Pipes or HFC
Catback Exhaust

Important but not required:
Motor + Diff Mounts
SS Brake Line Set
Brake Fluid RBF 600 or 660
Brake Pads CarboTech XP10
Slotted Rotors 2 piece if you want
LSD (Quafe or OS)
Exhaust Heat Wrap
CJM Fuel Starve Control
CSF Radiator
Gear Oil for Diff
Suspension
Tires
Wheels

Some things make sense to do with the other while others can be done independently with little change in costs for labor.

The other catch is your resale value. Either you part it out and eat the labor cost again, or struggle to sell a aftermarket turboed car. If you have doubts about keeping the car long-term, it may not be something to do.

I'm keeping my car until she dies!! Depending on how she dies, I may resurrect her.

If you plan to keep her for a long time, then here is a plan I would advice that gets you to boost.
Get a DD if you do not have one, pay off the Z and while doing so have some fun with adding these parts.
-Upgrade the radiator
-Brakes (when OEM parts wear)
-Exhaust plus HFC/TP/etc

Once you save for a bit and go down the line the entry cost of boost will be a little lower as you will have made some upgrades over time that will benefit the FI kit along with decreasing the sticker shock. Plus you can always pick up the kit and then over a few more months buy up gauges, clutch, etc and then have a big install month. This way you are not dropping 15k in one month.

Sashas kit is so complete I still say it is the least expensive and best way to boost the Z, plus the turbo is not in the engine bay, keeping a lot of heat off the motor, this is a big plus. Regardless that it is a single it spools mad fast.