I have read all of those stickies and more.. I actually have went back far enough on the FI forum that's I have read 10 pages past the original BP build. I have clicked and read about 15 or 16 turbo builds from the consolidated sticky Dreamer made.

I'm thinking I need more hands on or more direct education on the subject. Maybe I can get my buddy to walk me through it one day or maybe have a look at JWICK's bp install with permission? BP is my #1 choice right now and have been since I read his build a month and a half ago.

I'm looking for Turbo more so than SC and have only read maybe 5 of those builds.

Well, just start throwing out specific questions. There are enough of us with enough pieces of the puzzle to hopefully clear things up for you.

Or you can do it from home!
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...pse034bd91.jpg

I need more info on the tuning side of things and what is needed to tune the system and stuff. The "to get list" as I have it is FI 2.5'' cbe, BP 2xscroll turbo, Southbend clutch flywheel combo kit (not sure on which one yet), ss break line kit and that's all for now. Car will be a DD so I'm not looking for stupid power. Just enough omph to kick butt and have LOTs of FUN!

I have a list somewhere of all the little things your missing. Send it after lunch.

Brake lines won't do anything other than make the pedal firmer. They work great for that, but do exactly **** for stopping distance and fade resistance.

You need to start thinking about heat management. You get the oil cooler with the kit, but you should spring for the radiator. That leads to a thermostat, and silicone hoses since you're already draining the system. Then a **** ton of header wrap and a turbo blanket.

Boost and AFR gauges at minimum, add EGT, oil pressure and water temp if you're going nuts.

A boost controller of some type. I've got a manual, which works fine and is cheap. Electronic ones are better, and which one is the best it its own can of worms.

Your tuner will have more to add as far as the specifics of your tune. You'll get a base map that's plenty safe and makes good power, but thou shalt get a custom dyno tune from someone who has done multiple FI Zs.

Totally agree with the ss line. I just didn't want to spend the $$ on pads or roters yet. I want to use my stock until they die.

I was thinking of getting a new Rad too but I don't see many post of people getting aftermarket ones. which one and why should I get that one (other than it cools better). What about fan/shroud/ect??

Why do I need new hoses (although cheap compared to the rest of the things)? Don't the OEM work?

What is a EGT? How do boost controller work? All I know is that they open to let out "excess" pressure from the boost so that you maintain a specific and constant air pressure to the engine or do I have it mixed up? How do you control this?

I was thinking Jtranz to tune since he is local.

I'm not trying to be "cheap" per say, but $$ matters and I'm trying to see if FI is even plausible for the $$ I want to spend. I'm just being realistic. Sure I can afford it but do I want it "That bad," that is the question.

CSF is really the only option. GTM is having issues, and Mishimoto is ******** Chinese garbage not fit for a primered out civic with a fart can. That, and having your tuner adjust your fan duty cycle will likely take care of your temp issues. The lines will never wear out or bust like rubber, and they're a drop in the bucket as a percentage of the overall build cost and the install for the radiator lends itself to the swap.

EGT is exhaust gas temperature. Too hot and you can melt something. A lean condition raises EGTs. It's not necessary, but again, you can go as nuts with gauges as your wallet can handle.

You boost level will either be controlled by the wastegate spring, which is the least boost you can run, or the controller which lets you run more than the wastegate spring. It'll "fool" the wastegate into opening when you want it to, not when the spring tells it to. A smart man has their tuner set this and doesn't mess with it.

At the end of the day, if you're not DIYing this, a turbo Z is probably going to run you $15k between parts, labor and tuning. It's a pretty steep cost of entry. That being said, it's absolutely worth it. This car really takes to boost. The chassis has no issues handling the power. It feels like it should have come from the factory this way.

Man $15k is a LOT!!!! I could almost pay my car off with that much. Humm... I was hoping for more of $10k for FI excluding my time spent to install the things I can install. I was actually thinking I could buy me a newish sport bike or boost my DD.

Well, the kit will be $7500ish. The clutch/flywheel/csc is another $1200-1500. $500ish for gauges. $600 for a radiator. Another $100ish to recharge the AC after you install it. Another $2-500 for random stuff- header wrap, etc. $500-700 for the dyno tune. $100-700+ for a boost controller. We're right around $12k and we haven't addressed shipping or labor to install everything, which will probably be $1500-2k. Do you already own the exhaust? If not, another $1200 or so.

This **** snowballs fast.

YOUR knowledge is killing me fast!!! lol

I don't have the exhaust but it's my next mod. I been trying to go and listen to various exhaust locally and many said yeah, but no one seems to commit to meeting up. Ohh well..

Man.. and I have another problem too. I wan tot go back to school.. DOH!!! Humm..

Lets go back tot eh OG intent of this thread, knowledge.

Can you elaborate or the things we already have posted? Any info on why, how, which one(s), to look into. OR do you have a good link I can go to and read up?

Thanks

Again, throw out a specific question and we can try to answer it. We don't know what you don't know.

Hum... Let's just say I have correctly installed the BP kit, southbend stuff, and rad. What is next? Install AFR/boost gauges? How? How exactly do I get my car to run properly with this new set up? base map? How do I use it (as in install?).

You would want the clutch installed before the kit so you can break it in. The gauges should be installed at the same time as the rest of the kit. The boost gauge usually is fed from a tap on the intake manifold. For the wideband you have an extra bung welded on the post-turbo piping and you put the new O2 sensor there. The kit comes with an Uprev cable, and you use that to install the map. You can drive on the base map just fine until you take it to a tuner.

The heck is a "wideband"? I recall reading from BP build that some did not tap the manifold and used some kind of metal block manifold for hoses of some sort.