No I'm talking about as if you are at a stop sign and you take off the moment the gas pedal volts(idle is about .73) move between .73 and about 1.09 if you hold it there and watch the ROM editor I saw it was really lean this all happens quickly but never the less is would cause a abrupt transition from the idle circuit to on the gas causing a hesitation some people refer to this as tip in once I got the correction factors close the transition was very smooth hard to tell when I'm on the gas or not.

Ahhh nice! Thanks for clearin that up. I'll look for that on my next datalogging.

Yeah the tip-in thing with lean fueling is definitely part of the problem on the stock setup. I somewhat remedied that on my car by going over to the A:F tables and making things a little over-rich in the low RPMs at low throttle. Upside is there's fuel available for that tip-in, downside is I get some occasional backfires when transitioning from engine braking back to neutral throttle at low RPMs and low throttle input (e.g. engine braking gently down to a stoplight and popping into neutral just as it's reaching the point where the engine would naturally start to lug out for being too low. If I don't time it just right, nice little fireball pops down the exhaust).

Are you saying you corrected your lean spots in that same A:F table, or elsewhere?

If you do like I did you won't have to backfire, I just drive and watch the correction factor and during live tuning while holding the pedal there while you feel it sputter add the fuel on the fuel comp table but don't go passed 100% leave it a little and I mean a little on the rich side maybe 95-97% and I don't backfire on decel from 7000k down to 800 idle.

Hmm that's pretty interesting. Good to know. I definitely need to get out of this canned tune O_o. We shall see if I still have this car within the next year or so. :)

Unrelated. I notice there are times I have issues starting the car, and it doesn't matter how hot it is outside. When it starts I smell a bit of fuel as if the engine was flooded.

You're running a canned tune on a forced induction car?

Dude, not to be rude, but that's fcking retarded. The canned tune is to get you to the tuner to have it dyno tuned properly, not to drive around on for months (years?)

Holy crap!

Starting the car to me has been the hardest part(tuning for 516rwhp was easy in comparison)
There really has to be a fine balance between not enough fuel to too much fuel.
Do you have test pipes?

If the tune came from Sam @ GTM then yes you can drive on it.

That's ignorant. No one can make a canned tune that is 100% correct for a car they've never touched and never personally had on the dyno. Much less a freaking twin turbo tune.

Oh well, his car, his problem. seems he's having drivability issues already.

I had one on mine (from Sam @ GTM)and I put down 445rwhp and Jon the tuner @ Z1 said it's good don't Fvck with it.
So it is apparent to me that you have no Friggin clue to what you are talking about.:shakes head:

Ok.

Some reading.

There's a guy local here whose car barely ran on the canned tune from Sam @ GTM.

You got lucky, I'm happy for you!

I have received 2 tunes from Sam the one I stated and the the one I was on a month ago which put down 483rwhp and Jon said I could have left it but he leaned it out a little to pick up some more power,most people who get tunes from Sam are about 90% whatever happened to your friend who knows (2nd party hear say)but I have no issues riding around on Sam's tune until I go to the dyno if it is 1 month or 6 months.:tup:

I got my car fine tuned from Jon @ Z1 also. Sam's tune was very rich and he leaned it out a bunch. I gained a lot from him leaning it out. Digi I'm sure your tune is fine especially if u ran it this long but like I said earlier theres no need to run that rich. It's prolly like a super extra safe rich can-tune. Plus drivability is prolly compromised a bit. You're good to ride but after spending all that cash on the kit and supporting mods I personally wouldn't skimp out on the tuning part.

No test pipes. F.I. HFC and 12" TDX exhaust still. I remember reading about startup issues due to leaky injectors. [shrugs] It comes and goes. There were times I had this issue once or twice a day, then it goes away for several weeks.

Wow you're making nice power. I think 500 whp is my target as well with this new setup, but I care more about quicker and smoother response.

Over 23k miles (knock on wood). The car was with Baker Tuning for over 2 months, and I picked it up during Labor Day weekend last year. Sam says he wasn't given the datalogs so he could send the correct tune, so it was still running the canned tune. So I recorded my logs and sent it to him and heard no response from either Sam or Mike. I wonder if it's because of the MBC that they don't want to touch my car. At Baker, they were playing it safe at 6 PSI (no boost controller or wastegate tweaks) and this canned tune not knowing what my driving habits were.

Nearest tuner for me is in KC, which is 3 hours away. I wouldn't mind having Z1 tune it after the new upgrades. [sigh]

When I took my other car apart I saw several injectors leaking however I fixed it when I put the kit on my Nismo so starting was alott easier to dial in, I didn't think about that until you said it.

I guess that puts you in the Wichita area? Or somewhere way out west?

I would say you might as well make a road trip to Austin and have Jared @ Uprev tune it. Prolly what I would do.

Yup, Wichita. I'll definitely get a tune once the upgrades are done. No one in the DFW area? My friends and I frequent that area [for food].

Too bad a software switch can't be wired to turn off ETC (like VDC button). Haha, this car definitely needs an R-mode lol.

There are some okay tuners here. T1 in Rowlet would probably be good enough. I just know the process they follow @ Uprev in Austin is very methodical and they hold on to all the data for safe-keeping, should you need updates in the future.

When you fixed it, did you use the same GTM-supplied injectors or go with something else? How about switching to Injector Dynamics down the road? :confused:

Sorry for going OT, but who knows since we're on the topic about fuel delivery and throttle response. [shrugs]

No I just reversed the order on how the injectors are installed,when I put them in my Nismo I put the injector in the intake first then put the fuel rail on top bolted it down connected the battery and turned the key on to look for leaks.

I'm not sure if this helps with the basics on the VVEL motors.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6i1rB...eature=related

I guess my question after seeing this is what does Nissan mean by "high Torque" cause I dont think the 370 has "high torque" at all.

^ lol @ screen name

Mostly VVEL is a fuel-efficiency hack, IMHO. The problem with a solid cam is you can either profile it for good torque, or profile it for good MPG, but it's kinda hard to get both. VVEL lets them meet the MPG standards that the feds and/or consumers want and still deliver power when you get on the throttle.

The VQ37 is pretty decent on torque given it's a 3.7L V6, but it likes to be in the upper rev range. I know most people in normal conversation talk about "torque" as being the low-RPM stuff and HP as the high-RPM stuff, but HP is just Torque*RPM. You can't have good power output in general without first having decent torque somewhere in the rev range :).

VVEL does help a bit with MPG in some situations... But it is first and foremost a way for them to have huge lift and duration (for a stock motor) at high RPM and reasonable, smooth-idling, smooth throttle response performance at low RPM.

If you cammed our engines with cams having the profile of VVEL at maximum Lift and Duration, it would be pretty lumpy and soft on the bottom end. Not at all nice for driving around town, or with an automatic transmission.

Just look at the dynos we all have from these cars, torque curves that flat didn't exist before technologies like this.* We're living in the (albeit a little boring to drive) future, man!

*Other than N/A rotary power.

I made a new throttle map to remove issuses below 2200 RPM here is a screen shot of it ,it works great no more lag,I'm trying to get the Hex code up but so far my laptop isn't playing nice.

http://www.the370z.com/members/baer3...rottle-map.png
8064 81CC 82D1 844C 858C 86A4 8866 89D3 8B2C 8C76 8D7A 8DD5 8E29 8E74 8EB5 8ED8
8000 81A9 82B2 8433 8579 8696 8860 89D3 8B2F 8C7B 8D7E 8DD8 8E2C 8E76 8EB6 8ED8
7FBC 8187 8293 841A 8566 8688 885A 89D3 8B33 8C80 8D82 8DDC 8E2F 8E78 8EB8 8ED8
7FB0 8164 8273 8401 8553 867A 8854 89D3 8B36 8C85 8D86 8DDF 8E32 8E7A 8EB9 8ED8
7F8F 8141 8253 83E7 853F 866B 884E 89D3 8B3A 8C8A 8D8B 8DE3 8E35 8E7C 8EBA 8ED8
7F4F 811E 8234 83CE 852C 865D 8848 89D3 8B3E 8C8E 8D8F 8DE7 8E38 8E7E 8EBB 8ED8
7F27 80FC 8215 83B5 8518 864F 8842 89D3 8B41 8C93 8D93 8DEA 8E3B 8E80 8EBC 8ED8
7F2B 80D9 81F6 839C 8505 8640 883C 89D3 8B45 8C98 8D97 8DEE 8E3E 8E83 8EBD 8ED8
7EFC 80B7 81D7 8383 84F2 8632 8836 89D3 8B48 8C9D 8D9B 8DF1 8E41 8E85 8EBE 8ED8
7ED4 8094 81B8 836B 84DF 8624 8830 89D3 8B4C 8CA1 8D9F 8DF5 8E44 8E87 8EBF 8ED8
7ED4 8071 8198 8351 84CB 8615 882A 89D3 8B4F 8CA6 8DA3 8DF8 8E47 8E89 8EC0 8ED8
7ECA 804E 8179 8338 84B8 8607 8824 89D3 8B53 8CAB 8DA7 8DFC 8E49 8E8B 8EC2 8ED8
7E9A 802B 815A 831F 84A4 85F9 881E 89D3 8B57 8CB0 8DAB 8E00 8E4C 8E8D 8EC3 8ED8
7E64 7FFA 812D 82FC 8489 85E5 8816 89D3 8B5C 8CB7 8DB1 8E05 8E51 8E90 8EC4 8ED8
7D47 7EF7 8044 8241 83F8 857A 87E9 89D3 8B76 8CDA 8DD0 8E1F 8E66 8E9F 8ECD 8ED8

http://www.the370z.com/members/baer3...5-untitled.png

would like to see your map.
does any body have a fuel map for full bolt ons. I would like to see what it looks like.
im haveing a nightmare making the z run with uprev, I had no prolems with the cobb.
thanks Z

Wstar are you saying to try the curve 2300 as opposed to the older "linear"

I was, yes. I've been running the Curve2300 map since I added that to the first post over a year ago, and it works great for me. The previous map I had published (which is Linear on the charts in the first post now), in practice produces a surge of responsiveness in the upper range of the pedal followed by a flat-spot, so it's just not as precise, predictable, and controllable as the Curve2300 one. The point of the Curve2300 map is to (a) solve the "ECU doesn't fully open the throttle at low revs" problem while also (b) providing a smooth, predictable response so that you can do nuanced throttle work and not be surprised by variations in the effect of a given amount of pedal travel in different parts of the range.

All of that said, though, none of this work has been updated for UpRev's latest findings a few months ago. They cracked at least some of the real VVEL control tables, and this mystery throttle table is undoubtedly tightly linked with those, and they probably know more about all of these related tables than they used to. At some point I need to take a look at what they've got and what it means for all of this.

If you are referring to the throttle table above it has nothing to do with VVEL this is what I came up with to counter measure the bad throttle response below 2200 rpm,all I did was to get the throttle blades to open quickly.

They're definitely inter-related, since VVEL is what's really doing the throttling. Part of the reason the understanding of the throttle table was fuzzy back when I was working on this was precisely because the VVEL stuff wasn't yet figured out. I imagine someone at UpRev now understands the throttle stuff much better than before.

The version above is a modified from yours and fixes all low speed issuses I just haven't found out how to get the Hex code on the site yet.

Yeah I have yet to see any version above, just blank spaces in your posts, so I have no idea what we're talking about :)

You don't see the throttle map I posted?

I don't see anything either.

Nor do I

The picture is fixed shaun66 pm me and said he can see it now.

Ok yeah I can see the pic of your map here. Any details on how you arrived at those values and/or the intent, etc?

I kept your 3800 row the same but everytime I changed a top number (800 RPM)I changed the whole row to keep the row the same from 800 to 6800 RPM.
Your 2300 map is good I have driving around with it for awhile,all that was needed was to get the throttle blades to open quickley,so I got them open quickley and then brought the cruve back to roughly the same way you had it in the 2300 map.
When you have this map in Osiris and pull it up in the 2 demensional map and do the same with your 2300 map you can over lap them and see extactly what and how I changed it.

Hex code finally up for my throttle map.:hello:

What is your throttle map?