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yap
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i will have to change map and its ok for sometime |
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no i didn't do the throttle body relearn steps how do i do it ? |
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http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...ve-method.html 2003-2011 Nissan 350Z - 370Z Idle Air Volume Learning Procedure | Nissanhelp.com |
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And will it not harm the current ECU program ? |
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so disconnect the battery as above then do the 2nd one. All programs are not disturbed. |
8064 81CC 82D1 844C 858C 86A4 8866 89D3 8B2C 8C76 8D7A 8DD5 8E29 8E74 8EB5 8ED8
8000 81A9 82B2 8433 8579 8696 8860 89D3 8B2F 8C7B 8D7E 8DD8 8E2C 8E76 8EB6 8ED8 7FBC 8187 8293 841A 8566 8688 885A 89D3 8B33 8C80 8D82 8DDC 8E2F 8E78 8EB8 8ED8 7FB0 8164 8273 8401 8553 867A 8854 89D3 8B36 8C85 8D86 8DDF 8E32 8E7A 8EB9 8ED8 7F8F 8141 8253 83E7 853F 866B 884E 89D3 8B3A 8C8A 8D8B 8DE3 8E35 8E7C 8EBA 8ED8 7F4F 811E 8234 83CE 852C 865D 8848 89D3 8B3E 8C8E 8D8F 8DE7 8E38 8E7E 8EBB 8ED8 7F27 80FC 8215 83B5 8518 864F 8842 89D3 8B41 8C93 8D93 8DEA 8E3B 8E80 8EBC 8ED8 7F2B 80D9 81F6 839C 8505 8640 883C 89D3 8B45 8C98 8D97 8DEE 8E3E 8E83 8EBD 8ED8 7EFC 80B7 81D7 8383 84F2 8632 8836 89D3 8B48 8C9D 8D9B 8DF1 8E41 8E85 8EBE 8ED8 7ED4 8094 81B8 836B 84DF 8624 8830 89D3 8B4C 8CA1 8D9F 8DF5 8E44 8E87 8EBF 8ED8 7ED4 8071 8198 8351 84CB 8615 882A 89D3 8B4F 8CA6 8DA3 8DF8 8E47 8E89 8EC0 8ED8 7ECA 804E 8179 8338 84B8 8607 8824 89D3 8B53 8CAB 8DA7 8DFC 8E49 8E8B 8EC2 8ED8 7E9A 802B 815A 831F 84A4 85F9 881E 89D3 8B57 8CB0 8DAB 8E00 8E4C 8E8D 8EC3 8ED8 7E64 7FFA 812D 82FC 8489 85E5 8816 89D3 8B5C 8CB7 8DB1 8E05 8E51 8E90 8EC4 8ED8 7D47 7EF7 8044 8241 83F8 857A 87E9 89D3 8B76 8CDA 8DD0 8E1F 8E66 8E9F 8ECD 8ED8 7D6C 7EB7 801E 8227 83E3 8564 87CE 89D3 8B8A 8CE3 8DD2 8E26 8E6C 8EA6 8ED0 8ED8 I put that together for the and edited the 7200 portion. I do not get any limp mode like issues. http://i.imgur.com/71wePAx.jpg |
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Heh. I guess they should make up their minds! FWIW, the only time I saw the 7200 line in mine (when I was reflashing in July I think?), I just copied my 6800 line to the 7200 line and that seemed to work sanely (on that Curve2300 map I'm still running). I wonder if I should reflash the stock 7200-line data before I do a software update, in case by "removing" the 7200 line from the tool, they're leaving my old custom settings stuck in place?
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Hans told me to put the 7200 rpm line back to stock value,and I haven't had the same issue show up.
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Wow you're right I made a back up of the original rim editor and supporting files and updated it. I wonder why they went back to the 6800 line
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HI guys! I am new here. I do not have a 370z, but I have a crossover 2008 Infiniti EX35, which is now called Infiniti QX50. I believe I am the only guy with UpRev tuned EX35 and Seymore4 did my E-tuning a few weeks ago. It is NA Engine -VQ35HR AWD 5SPEED A/T dual intake.
I have a Uprev tuner's version and I could play around with the tune 24/7 =) Basically, I only requested 3 MAPS, 1)TUNED WOT-Rich 12.9:1 for Winter 2)Valet 3)Tuned-WOT-Lean (fuel economy) 13.25:1 So I got bored and read this forum. I decided to copy all parameters from my MAP1 except the Electronic Throttle one. I copy what WSTAR made on his throttle parameters and I noticed a much better improvement from 2.5K up RPM. I could definitely see an improvement in smoothness and throttle response specially on the highway. NEW MAP#5 DONE! http://i39.tinypic.com/2h33igk.jpg Thumbs up to WSTAR ! I enjoy using my new MAP4 with Wstar throttle settings when I drive on the highway. Is this WSTAR final ELEC. Throttle Settings? BTW, even though ECU ROM on CIPHER shows 6400 RPM MAX vs 6800 and 7200, the settings still works for my car~ UNKNOWNDESI, What about your parameters? Is yours final too? I will give that throttle parameters a try too and I will report back. That will go to my MAP#5. |
Your not suppose to change 6800-7200 rpm,you just leave the stock values if not the ECU will throw it into limp mode at high RPM.
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Thanks again for posting your throttle settings here. I will give your setup a try later today. If you can see above, my Cipher RPM for Elec. Throttle is only up to 6400 RPM. The rest are up to 7200 RPM (fuel map etc) |
Not that it matters now since the 7200 line is gone in the new version, but I should note that yes mine threw a P0605 eventually. I just hadn't actually hit the rev limiter with that map in place. Once I did, boy that was unpleasant :) Car limps until you reset the code, something about a ROM Error.
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Ok I just tried both settings from baer383 and wstar and I could hardly tell the difference. I just noticed I have slight rough downshift while cruising with baer383 settings. It id only once in a while, not all the time.
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The differences are subtle. Also, as noted earlier in this thread: I think the general improvements are good with these maps (in that they allow WOT at low RPM with a bit less lag, and they do it with a smooth function instead of a herky-jerky step function), but I think the curves are backwards from where they should be for drivability. I just haven't had the time or inclination to go and come up with another version of this.
By the way, have you compared your stock map with the copy of my stock map I posted? I don't know how close they are to begin with. |
I don't think I posted this here before, only off in another thread, but this is what I mean. This is a scan from the excellent book "Think Fast" that covers a lot of race car setup stuff. They're making the case that it's better for the curve to go in the opposite direction of the one in my throttle table. Either way you want the start and end points the same, so the curvature of the graph is all about trading off fine control in one area for lack of fine control (rapid response to input) in another, and the argument is basically that you want more fine control in the low end of the pedal since that's where you're feathering around with traction in mid-corner:
http://www.the370z.com/members/wstar...ast-pg-36.jpeg |
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I could help with testing. |
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So far, I am using your throttle settings. Syemore4 (UpRev pro and E-tuner) setup my tuned throttle Map. His setting is a lot smoother, but yours has early pedal pull. Less than 1/4 pedal push at 2.3K RPM in D mode (I drive 99% manual mode) the response is there. Seymore throttle response starts at 2.7-2.8 K RPM. Once I pass 1/4 pedal travel, responsiveness starts. So I find yours as my DD settings. It is really good! I just posted my stock throttle vs wstar stock throttle settings. Still pending approval. What the !$@ kvk! |
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Here is my stock 2008 EX35 AWD VQ35HR 5 SPEED A/T http://i42.tinypic.com/vfee0x.jpg |
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How long does it take for the moderator to approve the picture i posted yesterday morning?
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Smooth Throttle for UpRev
Whoops. Wrong thread.
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I am reposting this again. It sucks to post picture here, bec. it takes forever for the moderator to approve it.
wstar stock ELEC. Throttle Map. (below) http://i44.tinypic.com/25syiye.jpg Here is my 2008 Infiniti EX35 AWD VQ35HR stock throttle map (below) http://i39.tinypic.com/70g6dx.jpg wstar modified " Smooth Throttle Uprev MAP (below) http://i40.tinypic.com/2ihbexx.jpg The last MAP is the best throttle MAP I have used so far. |
Well, your stock map is quite different from mine. That the modified one works for you is probably mostly a matter of luck :)
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I assumed that my VQ35HR engine has the same diameter throttle bodies and sensors found in the 370z. I heard that my stock car ECU was detuned from the G35/350z stock ECu. Nissan made my car less responsive (smoother) to accomodate female buyers. Here is my car's engine... http://i44.tinypic.com/2vijjgw.jpg http://i43.tinypic.com/jhpxdy.jpg It has that stock HR intake manifold (Motordyne M370 that G37 crowd wants!) Tested it again on a 65 degrees ambient temp. perfect throttle for me! I am just curious with those - negative numbers. What if we just change it all to positive numbers? You know? flip the same - numbers to positive? Hmm, i might have to try that this weekend... =) |
I really don't know what the numbers mean, so I couldn't tell you for sure about the significance of negative values. I think just flipping the sign on them is probably a bad idea, as that would be a big jump in value. I know it's nothing as simple as "values below zero cut fuel/spark and go into engine braking", because we can easily get engine braking at deeper pedal positions than the chart goes negative for at high RPMs, e.g. if you play around with the pedal while sitting at say 5-6K rpm in 2nd or 3rd.
Keep in mind that in my original experiments, I didn't have to move all that far away from factory values to get very ugly behaviors that weren't drivable *at all*. Experiments are at your own risk, and scary things can happen. Some of the odd behaviors I remember from testing maps that were just a little too much out of range or out of shape in various areas include things like: 1) The accel pedal seeming to act normal for the first 15-20% of pedal range, and then you move it a hair further and the car suddenly leaps into full throttle out of nowhere, scaring the **** out of you and breaking traction. 2) The pedal seeming to act normal to nearly full throttle, but then when you hit full throttle the car acts like it's past a rev limiter (when it isn't) and cuts fuel/spark dramatically, shocking the drivetrain if you were in the midst of acceleration or shifting. 3) The pedal seems extremely unresponsive for the first half or so, so you keep pushing your foot down, then it suddenly responds out of nowhere and floors the engine.. etc... Be sure you're on a wide open road clear of traffic if you experiment with crazy values in this table... |
Seymore4 sent me 3 throttle test map during my e-tuning. There was one setting that when i past 3/4 of the pedal being push down, the car does not want to pull anymore or harder to pull. ( kind of an -engine breaking acting against the forward momentum)
Right now, I am using your modified map for a week now and the longer i drive the car, the better the throttle response gets. This morning it was 62 degrees F and throttle is a lot better than a few days ago. When i left work today, it was 82 degrees F and still responsive. When I say responsive, the car moves forward just a small tap of the accelerator ,not a fast tap, but you plant your foot on the accelerator and less than 1/4 pedal press the car moves right away. I also noticed during high speed freeway acceleration, at 65 MPH + the pedal tightens a bit at close to half pedal push and just a small press of the accelerator the cars pulls a bit more. Also while cruising at that speed and tried to accelerate to 80 MPH, it smoothly pulls harder, it is like the car has more power to give... i decided to floor it from 60 to 80MPG on 4th gear (my car's tranny 1:1 gear ratio) and I did not feel a rough or abrupt surge, but a smooth pull at WOT! The downshifting is also smooth at that speed from 80 to 60MPG. I did not feel any abrupt deceleration or strong engine breaking at all. Whatever you did to the settings, it was perfect for my car! I have to thank Seymore4 also, since he did my A/F and timing settings. I did change my fan control settings also, so the engine runs cooler so heat does not grab the cars power. I guess i will keep your setting as is ( wstar) Thanks man! |
Well, glad it's working for you, although I'm still kinda shocked it does at all. I guess shape is probably more important than absolute value, within small reasonable margins :)
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Used the 2300 table in an Autocross today. It was a fast course with some high speed sweepers (~50-90mph) and this throttle table worked perfectly. It was so, so much better than the stock table.
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I sent this link to my tuner for him to look through. I'd like to have the 2300 map done as well. Seems like those using it are loving it compared to stock!
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How do u copy those values on page 1 into Uprev?
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:driving:magic |
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