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That's probably true but each factor (aftermarket part) counts and this creates and almost inifinite number of possible outcomes. Sam is running test pipes - this might have a totally

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Old 02-03-2010, 11:26 AM   #16 (permalink)
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That's probably true but each factor (aftermarket part) counts and this creates and almost inifinite number of possible outcomes. Sam is running test pipes - this might have a totally diffferent effect in combination with his other mods, then say you running HFCs and a different intake.

We dont know if Sam's ECU has been rested before they did the "before" dyno run. Usually you would have expected the ECU to adapt better to the aftermarket parts and not run on a dangerously lean A/F. The only times I've seen this happen (on 350Z) is when the A/F meter housing diameter has been substantially increased without a tune.
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Old 02-03-2010, 11:32 AM   #17 (permalink)
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That's probably true but each factor (aftermarket part) counts and this creates and almost inifinite number of possible outcomes. Sam is running test pipes - this might have a totally diffferent effect in combination with his other mods, then say you running HFCs and a different intake.

We dont know if Sam's ECU has been rested before they did the "before" dyno run. Usually you would have expected the ECU to adapt better to the aftermarket parts and not run on a dangerously lean A/F. The only times I've seen this happen (on 350Z) is when the A/F meter housing diameter has been substantially increased without a tune.
So, I wonder if they reset the ECU for the before and then did the retune.
hmmmmmmmmmmm
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Old 02-03-2010, 12:03 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Which would be the correct way to do it BTW... (for tuning)

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Old 02-03-2010, 12:08 PM   #19 (permalink)
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So when I take my car to the shop to do a baseline dyno I should reset the ECU for 10mins before I start my pulls?
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Old 02-03-2010, 12:18 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Depending on what you want to know...

how much your engine puts down without any long-term adaption of the ECU

or

how much your engine puts down right now, with whatever adaptions the ECU has made
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Old 02-03-2010, 12:26 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Whichever is greater
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Old 02-03-2010, 12:48 PM   #22 (permalink)
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I would think you would want to do the retune with your ECU adapted (as it was when you brought it in) so that the ECU is already adapted for the way you drive and for where you are, ie high or low elevation etc. , then do the tune. It may not show greater numbers but I think true numbers. I mean if the ECU adapts and compensates for things, then resetting it is kinda cheating for numbers in my book. But Im in no way an expert so this is just my 2 cents.

To me adaptation is baseline prior to mods of course. After mods its still part of the gained hp/tq numbers.
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Old 02-03-2010, 03:09 PM   #23 (permalink)
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when you reset your ecu with heavy mods if you notice while letting it idle the revs will adjust a little. In fact with my car being stock right now I have noticed a little increase since the first I redlined it. It is a little wierd since Sams car basically has full bolt ons and it does lean it out. I think a stock Z would benefit more from a tune than a Z with full bolt ons until tuners can adjust every aspect of the new VQ.
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Old 02-03-2010, 07:36 PM   #24 (permalink)
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when you reset your ecu with heavy mods if you notice while letting it idle the revs will adjust a little. In fact with my car being stock right now I have noticed a little increase since the first I redlined it. It is a little wierd since Sams car basically has full bolt ons and it does lean it out. I think a stock Z would benefit more from a tune than a Z with full bolt ons until tuners can adjust every aspect of the new VQ.
my car was basically stock and i got 0hp from the tune
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Old 02-03-2010, 08:50 PM   #25 (permalink)
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my car was basically stock and i got 0hp from the tune
And this is a point Im wondering about, did you get 0 because the tuner didnt know as much as the one Sam had or did Sams tune to some maybe bad settings for long run? Again one will be better than others if they dont share their info via a database or something.
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Old 02-03-2010, 09:36 PM   #26 (permalink)
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And this is a point Im wondering about, did you get 0 because the tuner didnt know as much as the one Sam had or did Sams tune to some maybe bad settings for long run? Again one will be better than others if they dont share their info via a database or something.
I hope they know more than Sam's tuner, he went to Uprev directly, in Austin, he was one of the early testers I believe or went in to help with a cold start issue.
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Old 02-03-2010, 09:42 PM   #27 (permalink)
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my car was basically stock and i got 0hp from the tune
how did you end up with zero? My RSX got about 50% of the gains stock when I got the KPRO vs when I had full bolt ons and KPROd it again. I don;t think the tuner you went to could adjust everything.
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Old 02-03-2010, 09:50 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Jared, the owner of Uprev tuned my car. Keep in mind, i did almost 300 whp on their dyno with just intakes. Thats pretty strong i think when you compare it to what others run on that dyno. It doesn't really matter to me, im going back after i install the pulley and long tube headers and we will see what we get then.
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Old 02-03-2010, 10:03 PM   #29 (permalink)
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did you pay for that intial tune cuz thatd be sweet. haha kiddin. Dynojets read quite high but they are the most common aside from dynamics. Its always awesome to see someone take their beloved sports car to a mustang dyno after they spent tons of money on bolt ons and then see the look on their face.
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Old 02-03-2010, 10:11 PM   #30 (permalink)
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nope it was free. It's a matter of time. The Uprev guys are awesome and every car is different.
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