Fuel starvation, who else?

phunk

OH so close here. Our full road-race solution is completely built and ready for testing. we also have a significantly less expensive street solution that should greatly reduce the problem for street drivers that like to take those ramps at 1+ g's... that version is just barely in the works but wont take long, its easier than the road-race one.

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wh1te370z

Was talking about fuel starvation to a guy at work. I just came from the glen and was getting fuel starvation after the 2nd lap w a full tank. The guy was saying it might be fuel boiling off in the fuel rails. So he suggested a cold box. Has anyone tried that? My fuel would cut out after taking a sweeping uphill turn into a straight away and would die out at about 6000-6500 rpm for about two seconds then kick back in.

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1998 BMW 328is... Track Build
2010 White 370z.... sold

travisjb

Interesting idea, but doubt it considering my problem is largely remedied by controlling the amount of fuel that gets picked up by the main pump

Stay the course

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2009 370Z #104
*For Sale*

ChrisSlicks

Uphill right-handers are the worst possible scenario given the pickup location. Higher RPM's are sucking more fuel which is why it is more likely to happen, but even up shifting early it will still happen just a lap or 2 later. For the Glen all the esses are uphill and there are a couple of other slightly uphill right-handers.

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Hotchkis ARB | Stillen CAI | Art Pipes | Berk CBE | Stillen AP Racing Brakes | AE Performance Oil Cooler | BC Racing ER Coilovers | Doran Control Arms

wh1te370z

I didnt have any problems with the esses. Turn 1-4 were basically my favorite turns there. The only problem was the Toe of the boot (Turn 8) turn 9 into 10 was a slight up hill but not as bad as 8.

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1998 BMW 328is... Track Build
2010 White 370z.... sold

wickedness

Man! I have tracked my car for two summers now and havent experinced this issue yet. Went crazy hard at the track 2 weeks ago all the way down to 1 dot of fuel! Today at 1/4 tank, took a sharp right hander on to an off ramp going uphill at full throttle , nothin! Sputtered , ran a bit, finally died. Of course parked on a uphill wont start at all. Just sputtered . Towed it to the dealer and it ran fine! Drove it home ran fine. I was still at 1/4 tank 20 min to gas station. Put $20 bucks of gas and it only went up 2 dots! Wtf? Any of you experienced pros of fuel starvation want to tell me what to change?

cossie1600

Your slicks are generating some nice g-forces, I didn't hit fuel starve when I was at the Glen.

Of course now my fuel pump or one of the component is rolling around in the gas tank.

travisjb

I'm not sure why the fuel gauge isn't registering but the rest sounds very familiar. The engine will eventually cut if you keep on the throttle and starve it of fuel. And it may vapor lock on you and not restart right away. Will eventually restart good as new - no need for a tow.

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2009 370Z #104
*For Sale*

cossie1600

The fuel gauge has a mind of its own, read one of many posts about it.

Question, is the fuel pump accessible underneath the plastic foam in the trunk or do you have to drop the pump to get to it?

ChrisSlicks

You have to drop the tank.

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Hotchkis ARB | Stillen CAI | Art Pipes | Berk CBE | Stillen AP Racing Brakes | AE Performance Oil Cooler | BC Racing ER Coilovers | Doran Control Arms

phunk

to get to the fuel pump is extremely easy. You can get to it in under 5 min.

behind the passenger seat is that little carpet "shelf". The shelf is held in with 4-6 push clips. Get a small pry tool under it and just pop it straight up. Pull out the sound insulation sheet, pay attention to how its in there because its a little tough to cram it back in when youre done, so its easier if you remember which way it was positioned. Then remove the 4 10mm bolts on the fuel pump access port cover. Lift up / rotate the panel enough to reach in and unplug the connector from the top of the fuel pump.

There you have it. If you want to remove the fuel pump assembly, take out the 6 8mm bolts. Things to remember... do not do this unless you have half tank of gas or less, and the less the safer. If you open it up full tank, you will make a mess because the fuel pump is not at the highest spot in the tank, so when you take out the 6 bolts gas will spill all down the side of your tank.

Another note... there is a 4.25" or so diameter Oring that seals your fuel pump assembly to the gas tank. If you plan to remove those 6 bolts and lift up the assembly, you may want to have a fresh oring for when you reinstall. they expand and become extremely difficult to reuse. i have the trick down to cramming in an expanded one, but first timers will waste hours trying to get that sucker in right.

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ChrisSlicks

Cool! That's a lot easier than dropping the tank!

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Hotchkis ARB | Stillen CAI | Art Pipes | Berk CBE | Stillen AP Racing Brakes | AE Performance Oil Cooler | BC Racing ER Coilovers | Doran Control Arms

cossie1600

Yeah. I wonder what is the work involved in removing the gas tank (dealer is doing it). I assume dropping the exhaust, driveshaft and other stuff?

phunk

why would they be dropping the gas tank? You have to remove way too much to do that, i wouldnt even want the dealer doing that to my car. Ill put it this way, when there was a recall on a part and dealers had to remove the gas tanks from 350z, cars were falling off the lifts forwards because they were removing so much weight from the back of the car and had not taken enough care to balance the car for that.

you have to remove everything under the rear half of the car. everything. entire suspension and crossmember and differential and driveshaft and exhaust, etc.

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cossie1600

Good to know, hope they know the trick of getting it from the rear parcel shelf. I have something rolling around in my gas tank, got to fish it out and fix it!

Just read the manual, they do tell you about the access hole at the top. I think they will try to grab whatever it is from the top first and then see what broke inside.