Originally Posted by Rid3_FaM0uS (Post 2929314)

bear in mind the issues I'm running into with most big name, and properly prepped tracks here in Ohio. I just don't want you to get heart broken when you're on the verge of breaking out of the 11s, and the track advisor escorts you off because you're not NHRA compliant. Unfortunately now a days its more than just building a power plant and shooting for the desired times like I was expecting going into this.

13.99 1/4-mile (8.59 1/8-mile) or quicker:

-A driveshaft safety loop is required when you run slicks (not drag radials or street tires). With street tires or drag radials, no loop is required until 11.49 1/4-mile (7.35 1/8-mile) and faster.

-A helmet (closed face or open) is required with a minimum Snell K98 or M2000/SA2000 rating. Helmets last 12 years from their rating date (example a Snell 2005 would be good until 2017). Shield is not required.

11.99 1/4-mile ( 1/8-mile) or quicker:

-Metal screw-in valve stems required on tubeless tires on all wheels.

11.49 1/4-mile (7.35 1/8-mile) or quicker:

-A 5-point minimum roll bar on a fixed roof car (t-tops okay as well if in place while racing) from 11.49 to 11.00 (7.00 1/8-mile). If the hardtop / t-top car has un-altered floors, firewall and frame rails (wheel tubs are okay), then the 5-point roll bar is good til 10.00 1/4 mile (6.40 1/8-mile). Convertibles require the 5-point bar from 13.49 (8.25 1/8-mile to 11.00 (7.00 1/8-mile).
The rollbar must be constructed of a minimum o.d. mild steel or chrome moly tubing (moly can be a smaller o.d and is lighter but more expensive), see diagram below for specs.
The roll bar can be bolted or welded to the floor, see diagram below for specs.
Roll bar must be padded anywhere the driver's helmet may contact it while in the driving position, see diagram below for specs.
The 5-points are:
Main hoop; 2 "down bars" (bars that go from the main hoop rearward to the trunk floor/hatch area. These can be straight or bent like a "package tray" style, search for photos); Welded crossbar for belts (can't be removable), see rulebook for exact location. Driver side door bar (can be a swing-out. Many put a passenger's side bar in as well (6-point) because it strengthens the car on both sides, but if you have subframe connectors the difference may be minimal).

-Protective Clothing (SFI jacket with a 3.2A/1 rating, no expiration date)

-5 point harness (up to date, they must be replaced or re-certified every 2 years; You can re-cert by shipping the belts to the manufacturer, or buy new ones. I usually buy new ones and sell the old ones on EBay (street racers and dune buggies buy 'em).

Originally Posted by Z eliminator (Post 2930744)

if your car is a 2009 and up . it can run 10's and not require the above.
but you have to convince them that the car is stock .
eg. the GTR 's can run with no cage as long as it does not go 9.99's.
nhra rule's

Z

Originally Posted by Rid3_FaM0uS (Post 2931459)

That's impressive as hell I hope I can dial in the Z that good. It ain't to hard with a GTR it doesn't seem it's just the cost to get it there haha

Originally Posted by FPenvy (Post 2931649)

yea AWD and a car thats built to do it stock is a nice start lol

my boy still has the fastest stock GT-R 1/4 ET as well i believe. think it was a 10.29? i'll have to look it up. it's on GTRlife forum.

Originally Posted by Rid3_FaM0uS (Post 2931667)

I must agree! This having to re invent the wheel thing quite frankly sucks! Gosh could you imagine if our Z Cars could go deep 10s stock!? :happydance:

Originally Posted by phunk (Post 2934180)

rocking my 28" street radials now. might go to the track in the next week or two.

Originally Posted by DEpointfive0 (Post 2926993)

Hey, blowouts can happen to anyone at any time. People have had their almost new RE-11s as well as their Conti DWs blowout during normal street driving.


And IIRC there isn't any tire you can put on the spare. No one makes a 18" tire that fits a 4-5" wheel

Originally Posted by phunk (Post 2934180)

rocking my 28" street radials now. might go to the track in the next week or two.

Originally Posted by FPenvy (Post 2934857)

do those clear sport brakes by chance? cant really tell what you're runnin in the pic.

Originally Posted by phunk (Post 2934900)

Not a chance!!!! I currently have rear base model 350z brakes on, and I still had the grind about .050" off the calipers. Once you make the required modifications to the dust shield, the brake conversion takes about 30 minutes or less. I dont mind doing it since the wheels obviously come off anyway. Its literally just 2x 19mm bolts and 1x 12mm banjo bolt per side to change the brakes.. thats it. Then a few pumps of the pedal to bleed each side.

I know 99% of you guys cannot STAND the idea of doing this before going to the track. Trust me, I resisted it too. I had 18x12" wheels with 315 drag radials and nearly zero baseline camber and it still couldnt leave hard. That 18x12 setup will now be my standard daily driver, and this will be my track set. I am selling my 19x11 rear volks because even on 305/30/19 R888s, having the turbos is almost pointless until 60mph.

I dont have to change the rear brake every single time I swap wheels... because the ugly factor is the only reason to bother taking off these rear brakes anyway. I have stoptech rotors and pads in there, the single piston surface area isnt TOO far off from the piston size on the akebono rears... To be completely realistic, I am just not going to notice the difference on the street even with the HP I have and speeds I go. So I will probably only put the rear akebonos back on occasionally.

Stay tuned for a write up post on putting 28s on the car. Its very cheap and easy, and is going to make the drag strip WAY more amusing. The diameter will have an effect similar to a longer final drive, and the gobs of sidewall will make it SO much more forgiving to the ridiculous camber gain.