Time for the 10s.
 

Alright...I was reading a thread about the AAM twins and SharpByCoop asked the question (paraphrasing), "Why are 350s so much faster than 370s?" He suggested that the fasted 350s are 2 seconds faster than what is listed below.

Is it that 350s are raced and dragged more? I could see that.

And why are 600hp with over 500lbs of torque beasts only 1 second faster than a BASE SPORT on STREET TIRES? - 1) jnaut ------------ 09 Base Sport 6MT 12.245 @ 111.81 mph 1.813 60ft street - Yes jnaut has some mods but I don't see anything more than would account for the 7 tenths he is faster than a stock on streets. Clearly he and Z eliminator are half a second better drivers than the rest of the list (props) but based on the numbers SharpByCoop and TerribleONE are equally ahead of their 'class'. (T-ONE wasn't Dan from F.I. driving your car for that 11.493?).

I suspect that it comes down to an inability to get the power down to the asphalt. I can light my tires up in third on my 91 octane tune on street tires for goodness sakes.

It's time for the boosted among us to step up and represent the cars and turbos we love. In 2015 we need to join the 10 second club.

Step 1: Get your cars on the strips and post the numbers. What worked? What didn't? How much boost were you running? Tire profiles?

Step 2: Anyone with extensive strip time needs to help the brothers and sisters out! Lowering air pressure in the back...duh. But what else?

My first ever strip run is in a few weeks. I'm starting on street tires with a 91 octane tune and don't care how many gears I miss. I -will- make the 10s in 2015 and it will be a community effort. So lets get busy!

FORCED INDUCTION
1) SharpByCoop --GTM TT S2-- 08 G37S coupe 5AT 11.130 @ 123.93 mph 1.677 60ft DR
2) TerribleONE ------FI TT-- 10 Tour ----- 6MT 11.493 @ 124.32 mph 1.766 60ft ET street
3) *Billy02987 --GTM TT S2-- 09 Tour Sport 6MT 11.736 @ 122.59 mph 1.942 60ft street - driven by jnaut
4) Nismo370 -----GTM TT S1-- 09 Nismo ---- 6MT 11.759 @ 127.14 mph 2.157 60ft street
5) Brazilbro ----GTM TT S1-- 09 Base Sport 6MT 11.812 @ 126.51 mph 2.020 60ft street
6) 98intrigue ---custom ST-- 10 40th ----- 6MT 11.852 @ 119.61 mph 1.880 60ft DR
7) Seb@SZ -------GTM TT S2-- 10 Base Sport 6MT 11.961 @ 122.13 mph 1.843 60ft DR
8) *RCZ --------Stillen SC-- 09 Tour Sport 6MT 12.207 @ 116.34 mph 2.034 60ft street - driven by jnaut

Question 1: I have a TurboSmart eBoost 2 controller and have been reading that you can set it up to change max boost by gear. Has anyone done this? I wonder if I can set it up to provide no boost in 1st and 2nd? It has to be almost zero because I spin on spring pressure (7lbs).

Question 2: We all hate the VDC. What other options are there? Either aftermarket or tunes? In fact, how does the VDC help with wheel spin? Does it apply brakes? I know some launch controllers like the Racelogic shut off fuel to a single cylinder (rotating through the 6) to reduce power when the wheels slip. This question comes from the understanding that I will need help controlling the spin...which I am ok with because I think everyone does. So if that is the case saying 'you should just learn to ease off the throttle' is not an acceptable solution. Clearly -everyone- is having this problem to different degrees.

VDC/TCS is pretty easy to disable fully. Remove the Bosch yaw sensor that's underneath the cup holder in the center console. It *is* valid to say one should learn to control wheel slip with your inputs (feet/hands); that is part of drag racing.

At the low speeds you're caring about here, the only way to gain more mechanical traction is with wider tires, stickier rubber, suspension changes, and/or more weight in the trunk.

Look into a drag setup traction control and boost by gear to get a perfect start off the line.

I think phunk said this... RAISE YOUR CAR!!!
The suspension geometry of the 370Z is really shítty to say the least. Dial your car to 0 degrees camber, 0 toe, stiffen the shít out of the rear spings so that it can't squat so much and camber/toe in, and presto chango, 10 second times.

This is related to a question I came up with while laying in bed...yeah my wife is used to me not sleeping.

I was thinking about height and thinking that I should drop the front as low as I can but then I thought about it again and realized that it might be better to lower the rear to get more on the wheels early. Anyone done this or disagree. I don't want to add weight if I can get the same effect messing with the heights.

You think it is that easy DEpointfiveO? If it is then I'm going for the 9s. ;)

I'll have to look at the BC ER setting options and see what I can do. I'll post some thoughts and get everyone's thoughts.

I was referring to people that would reply with -only- 'Learn to drive' crap. I'm just saying that I do not believe that getting to the 10s is all about the driver. That was my real point.

Although if any one does have a professional drag friend let me know. Once I get this all worked out I would love to put the car in the hands of someone that does 1/4s for a living-ish.

All you have to do is look at the trap speeds to know that these cars cannot put the power to the ground. A 120+MPH trap speed is more than enough power to bring down the time. The 60Ft only places a small part of it too, the 1st to 2nd gear change on these cars really sucks.

You guys are right about the camber in the rear, all you have to do is some 11'ses on the highway and go back and look at your marks and see how little of tread is actually being left on the road.

ET is ALL about the driver and the control of his car in the first few seconds of the run, Trap speed is about the power your putting down. For example I ran a 12.7 at 121mph up here. My speeds are in the ballpark of everyone else, but my time sucks because of the way my car is setup and my crappy launch.

Lol, no, I don't think it's actually that easy, BUT it will be a LOT easier if you buy some camber arms and SPL midlinks (because I know the rears on BCs are true type) and go with 12k+ springs in the rear too, and I bet you'll see times improve dramatically.

At the same time, (in my mind) the goal for boosted cars should be to get the F out of 1st gear too (unless you're on drag radials, even then it might be tricky) or go to the auto pumpkin/gear ratio

There is a good post on here by someone that describes the rear camber problem with our car when weight is transferred to the rear. He mentions doing a burn out, and then measuring the width of the tire mark. It will indicate how much of a contact patch you have with the ground. He basically proved to himself that a good portion of the rear tires was not touching the ground due to too much negative camber.

The cure for something like this(besides building new control arms) include:

Way stiffer springs in the rear. Probably want to be running 12K+ springs in the rear.

Corner Balance the car, and as mentioned, raised the rear to distribute the weight and get it over the tires. Think about the drag cars you see on TV. Driver in the rear, all the weight possible over the rear tires.

suspension should be setup 40/60 on your shock travel, 40% for compression travel 60% for rebound.

Smaller front tires, less friction up front. Swap em at the track if need be.

You need weight over the rear tires to increase static load, this is accomplished by raising the ride height of the rear coilovers. If you are on stock suspension or even just lowering springs, it's not going to cut it.

Once the weight is over the rear tires, need to keep the rear arms from moving and cambering the tires out, you do this by using stiffer springs in the rear, and then dialing in the rebound.

EDIT: the other single biggest thing you could do would be installing a proper differential.

I have, will have, BC ERs. I want to keep their springs default as I think they allow for a wide range to cover applications from street, to drag, to track...I know we can get times down if we drag-mod the car and I don't want to do that. But I am willing to add bits that allow for more customization even if that customization is purely for the strip.

I have SPC rear camber arms but need to have the extended range dremel thing done. I didn't do that when I put them in and can't remove any more camber.

I had planned on picking up a cheap as hell set of wheels...super wide rear narrow front and putting DRs on the rears. I can't see anyway around this the car needs wide for the track. ...need to get one of those tire trailers.

Good point about the diff. Let's see what I can do without it.

That was another question: 4.08 gears offer any advantage here? NOT going to install gear ratios that make street and track a nightmare. :)

Good point... I ran a 12.7@110mph in my old Audi A4, a 11mph difference in trap speed is HUGE.

Run spares up front

I highly doubt making the gear ratios more aggressive will help unless you can fit 15" wide slicks

HAHA spares! I love it! I was thinking gerbil exercise wheels but this is a much better option!

this thread is giving me bad ideas.

i really want to take my higher spot on the NA times back and i know to do so i need to adjust the camber, toe, springs, weight, etc... but i DD my car and changing all that then back to drive seems like a pain in the ass.

soooooo i'm using my credentials and looking up wrecked 370's with good engines lol

maybe a drag set-up only 370 is in my future as a project. :stirthepot:

The 2 issues with front wheel setup is the BBK size (best bet is to throw on base brakes for drag days. Second is the spares I don't think are rated above 55mph so trying to do double that might cause some issues.

Its best to throw no brakes on for drag days, lol

And the spares are rated for 55mph for 50 miles. I know many who have gone 100+ and over 500 miles on spares.

Geez, I would just worry about having that one bad spare and doing 100+ down the track.
Then again, I bet it would be easy to fit some slightly better tires on the spare wheels that can support a faster speed.

Hey, blowouts can happen to anyone at any time. People have had their almost new RE-11s as well as their Conti DWs blowout during normal street driving.


And IIRC there isn't any tire you can put on the spare. No one makes a 18" tire that fits a 4-5" wheel

I am right there with you. I am pretty sure I can get the camber and toe to zero for the strip but it will require a professional alignment to get it back to DD specs. I'm willing to fork out that cash for this quest but once I throw down what I consider to be the best I can without going full drag build I'll just stick with DD and track camber.

yea im on my site now looking and i found a 2013 nismo fully intact minus interior with 17k miles going cheap. listed as bio-hazard so i'm guessing someone died in it but blood soaked interior is gone and car is perfect outside. i'm cool with it lol

You know what I always say when someone dies..."Can I have his stuff?"

I think 0 toe and camber is the best for DD, no idea why you need rear camber or toe for the streets and when you mash the loud pedal the car camber/toes in anyways

well if that one goes cheap i may be interested lol

its literally a brand new nismo with no interior. perfect drag starter set-up lol

give me a carbon fiber race seat, some suspension work, plus some breather mods and it's on it's way.

WTF? Pics? Link?

You should be able to find a spring setup that works for track and street. I am currently putting a pair of BC's on for daily/track use. I am going with a 10K/12K setup which is similar to OEM setup. You could probably do the same but depending on your corner weights might have to up the front(sure your front is heavier than mine).

Are you doing true types in the rear or OEM?

The diff is a no brainer. Switch to solid diff bushings and just throw any of the reputable diffs in there-Quaife, Geiken, Cusco. I bet that alone takes off .5 second.

For front wheels , I would just get an el cheapo pair of 18"x8" wheelsand throw some 100 dollar Goodyear touring/eco low rolling resistance tires on there. They don't have to be top fuel eliminator bicycle tires, but there's no reason to be running grippy 275's up front if you are going in a straight line.



Using spare tires rated to 55MPH sounds a little sketchy :).

Also running 4.08 gears at 600 HP would just make your problem worse. The problem is traction, not HP. There's literally nothing else to the equation.

no price yet since it's a preview and no date for the auction set yet. it's a new listing. its in Cali. no link since it's tied to my username on the site and probably wont work for you guys lol

andddd the pic size for some reason exceeds the forum limit? wtf lol

FB message it to me

fb can blow me with that having to download the messenger app. i've been told it's laced with even more NSA tracking stuff than fb itself. :shakes head:

i'll PM you on here :tiphat:

Hey! No thread hijacking to jerks! ;)

I really wish I had more seat time in my old Z. My run of 11.85 @ 119mph was literally my first run and only pulled a 1.9 60'. I can't believe there hasn't been much progression since, as all those times were there almost 3 years ago.

Right? I'm not running an AAM so can't collect on the bounty but I'm going to make darn sure there is a competition! :D

it's still drag related based on me wanting to do all of this and more to a blank slate. just wnat my DD Z and my drag only Z :stirthepot:

it is sureprising that it hasnt gone below an 11 yet.

still cant believe i pulled a 1.95 60' NA and with about only 60% left on street tires lol

i want boost :mad:

One advantage the Er's will give you is the easy damper adjustments on the rear struts. All you have to do is pop the hatch and dial the nobs that come up through the rear plastics

I ran a miserable 11.6 last year when I was at 525rwhp, I had 2.0 60's and one really high 1.9. Shifting into 5th at the very end sucks and hurts the ET a little because you dont really even get to use the gear, you just shift cause you are at redline.

I was set to 0.75* negative camber I believe at the time, lowered on H&R springs, factory shocks. 315 toyo drag radials on 18".

If you want to not worry about traction, put stock 350z non brembo (rear) brakes on and cut the dust shield... now you can fit 15" wheels and slicks. a bonus here is that you can run a 28" tire and this should prevent 5th gear from coming up before the 1/4

To do 10s on drag radials is going to mean raising the suspension to stock height or more to get out of the extreme compression camber swing, and stiffening the heck out of it. I would raise the front too... keeping the front low is going to take weight off the rear and you need any weight you can get since you need to stiffen out compression/squat

What was your trap speed at Charles?

ill try and dig up the timeslips. i believe it was low, on the 11.6 pass i actually missed 5th gear and just coasted across. I *believe* it was a 119 and my other passes were 122-123.

Im curious to go back now. I have the 28" slicks and 15" wheels and small 350z rear brakes. Justin has the 350z down at Dynosty getting the new turbo setup and haltech tuned by Hal there, sometime in the next week will take it over to the local Dynojet and see what its making and I figure I will put my Z on again and make sure it is where I left it and then take them both to the track. Between the higher power I am at now, and the 28s, I am rather confident.