So even if you stopped the suspension from going any further down from the desired point which camber would be perfect for traction? There isn't a way to stop the suspension travel prematurely?
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Could the outside tire be cambering more than the chassis is leaning, and taking rubber off the pavement for no good reason? Perhaps "yes" with a very stiff and flat setup, and "no" with a more stock setup? Or would the answer be "no way not even close"? |
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It seems it would be difficult in general to simultaneously optimize a rear suspension's response for both road-racing and drag-racing. |
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might be easier to swap in a live axle and let er rip:icon17:
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I ask because if I keep the car much longer, we have played around with the idea of a custom rear crossmember. We could then change the curve by using custom control arm lengths, or possibly a few different positions. If it would only cater to drag racing, then I would figure on building just one, in which cause would be easier to fabricate and modify off the stock one. But if there was benefits to be found for the much more common road course racers here, then it could possibly justify a full custom rear crossmember. But it sounds like you guys are plenty happy with how it is already.
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My rear static/dynamic camber ends up doing the right thing on the outside wheel. It gets a little iffy on the inside wheel, but I suspect I'm going to iron that out over the next two events. This weekend I'm trying just a downgrade to the stock rear sway, and then for the next event I'll probably be upping my spring rates all around (but esp in front) to reduce body roll. Depending on lots of things, I'm not sure which rear bar I'll end up running with the stiffer springs. But either way, I don't think we need a major geometry change in the rear for road racing.
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