I really don't think so. I think as the front left girl bends her knees, a percentage of the total weight of the object (which was previously evenly split 4 ways) shifts from all of the other 3 (in varying amounts) to her. The lowest side/corner carries more static weight.

Damn I actually laughed out loud:nutswinger: that is some fun shik:roflpuke2:

Really? That easy? Win.

Any idea what the widest you can go without tsking off the stocks?

Also, you bring up another item i was wonering about...18 or 19s? I would think 19s are harder to spin but not sure if they hurt your time for other reasons.

Yes and I hope my previous post made you laugh hehe. Keep in mind the goal, the car stays perfectly level.

Yes if you lower the front end 12" and raise the rear end 12", then all the weight is going to be on the front. It will be physically impossible for the two rear people to hold up the weight(unless there are giant springs back there with and incredibly stiff frame). This is why just a little bit of preload is good as well, allowing you to adjust corner weights without actually moving the ride height too much. With 50 lbs of preload on the spring when you load it on the perch, you can first set the ride height, then balance. Lot of guys will do the back first, and then tune in the front. The heavier side(our front) will make more dramatic changes throughout.

When you lower one end of the car too far, it's pretty obvious because an unusual amount of weight will be transferred. That's when your roll moment goes out of whack. so you can use that as a measurement or baseline point. It's just like when you take 400 lbs and don't bend your knees on a squat rack. Sure anyone can suspend 400 lbs on their shoulders if they don't dig too deep. Try doing it with with a full knee bend.

Think of the frame of a house, it's job is to distribute equal weight to all four corners. Even if the earth sinks 1" on one side, the frame transfers this weight around. Same with a car. However, if you completely knock out one corner of the house, then you have a real problem.

be careful...you might make all these changes to get it to hook, and when it does hook... something will break lol

If you lower the front left coil of your car, that "missing" 20 lbs of force, is going to get distributed to the other 3 points. Of course, this will end at some point(when your suspension geometry fails/springs give up). And then yes, what you are saying will be correct.

I hate to subject you to this level of nerd but this video is pretty solid: corner balance a car - Bing Videos

Haha. That's ok. She likes it rough. Besides scars make everything sexier. :)

But good thing to bring up. Luckily for me I would not be stck with a garage paperweight if something went wrong. But not everyone can afford to take risks with their cars so words of caution much appreciated.

I am not sure how wide of tires the stock wheels fit. Just remember that with all the camber, the extra tire isnt on the pavement anyway. A car with a better suspension could go 9s on my 315 drag radials.

More sidewall is better for drag racing... that means smaller wheels or taller tires or ideally both. 19s will spin easier and also more likely to bust your axles.

agreed. this is one of my fears with going with sticky DR's on my car even being just N/A.

my luck the extra grip will end up blowing out my diff or a axle :shakes head:

i was at one point buying 315 19" mickey thompsons to go on my OEM rays but then thought about this exact thing lol :shakes head:

What you want the car to do coming out of the hole is weight transfer to the rear. If you have adjustable shocks in the front. You want them set full soft on rebound, and full stiff on compression. What this does is let the front come up quicker, and keeps it from settling down too soon. And a stiff springs helps too.

On the Z. You want to have the compression full stiff. This keeps it from squating, and changing camber. Stiffer springs here too.


When I used to drag raced my 440 Dart. I ran 90/10 shocks in the front, and 50/50 shocks in the rear. The front would pop up like right now. :D

I honestly dont think you need to worry about anything except your axles and rear differential mount. The 3rd gear on some of the older trans used to separate but I have not not yet heard of that happening since the CD009 trans or any of the 370z trans (and it was only the high HP TT cars that I ever heard of it happen to). Our driveshaft and differential is in the category of "bulletproof" as in nearly unheard of failures.

The diff mounts are cheap and a couple hours of work to change out. The axles arent hard but expensive if you replace with upgraded ones. Just preload the drivetrain before launch and dont stay in it during wheel hop and you probably wont break an axle.

solid info.

sadly i will not tell you how i ran my fastest 2 ET's and other 1/4 mile runs then lol my technique probably wouldnt fall into ideal for most.

also idk if it's the 7AT but i'm never had any wheel hop issues ever. i've spun on lesser prepped tracks, bald tires, or airport run ways but never any hop.

plus i think i have the only Z that will left me light up the rearsfor full burnouts with just VDC off and none of that pulling the brake fuse stuff that i see everyone say you "need" to do lol

I had Fast Intentions put in Whiteline diff bushings after they tore theirs up during their test runs (video's on youtube).