Ok math aside, brands aside, all this techno stuff aside; I and maybe Spoon might still be confused. All I know is I have parts in mind, I have coilovers in mind, I have a spring in mind and I even have alignment settings in mind!!!

Question is though it still seems like you guys are talking about a thousand different ways to set it up like I'm doing all this buying of parts and it will be wrong. I want the Z to handle right and well and not put me into a wall.

I guess it just seemed easier on my race bike!! I had full race built adjustable forks built, a Penske rear triple clicker shock and I took my bike in to be "dynoed" or we called it computech'd where rake, height etc was all tailored to me and my weight and besides the occasional stiffen or soften on the adjustment knobs, the bike just flicked around and felt like it was on rails! I just want it to simple I guess.

The problem is that the front of our car doesn't like anything but a coil over solution. The back only likes a shock + spring solution. There are not a lot of products in the market that solve this problem.

KW V3 does the best job out of the box IMO. But they are also a bunch of A-holes on the phone. I personally wont buy 3000 dollar items from a company that puts idiots that "don't know" or "can't tell you" how their product works on the tech support line.

So you start to look to custom solutions that will allow you to actually do what you want with the suspension tuning.

Have you looked into the PSS10s? Ideally, the best would be to get a set of used one and revalved the shocks and springs, but used sets don't exist for the 370!!! Unfortnately you have no choice but to spend money on custom solutions. I thought the Fortune setup would be a good stopgap, but it just didn't work out like I hope it would.

MCS makes a decent off the shelf set-up. You can buy double, non remote shocks (package better than the remote shocks) from them for about 3300. That does not include springs, top mounts, etc.

Have you called? Maybe they'll up grade the springs for you? If OEM isn't as strong as true type then you only have like a 6k in the rear. And like said earlier, a good start would be a 18k front. Maybe try 18k front with a 15-16k rear?

That might be to stiff for our rear. Lol. Anyways due to the nature of are cars being tail happy a little softer is really needed. I'm seeing where some are removing the sway bar completely after a good Coilovers setup

I use a 15k in back with no bar....on real tires. Again, something in the 18/16k range is going to be pretty highly sprung on street tires, even with aero.

Hey merry Xmas to everyone btw. :)

Yeah if I was going full track beast with this car right now(not yet). I would probably go into the 15-16K front 10-13 K rear. I am aiming for starters at 13K front and probably just 9K rear until I can throw some aero on it. I only do road courses, if I did autoX I would probably go 14/10 to start. Biggest problem I have with the car is putting power down on exit. Like mentioned above, the rear end just likes to fly out on exit which would indicate *** end is rolling over and a general lack of stiffness.

Strange because that's what this car does best is put power down while hitting apex and exit..... What's ur alignment

Completely OEM. That's part of the problem. Trying to finance the whole shebang at once. But I may just end up needing to do the camber arms wo having the dampers yet.

This is a GREAT thread.. I have been looking a coilovers myself. I am currently running Swift R Spec and the OEM Nismo Shocks with Hotchkis sways.

All this good info is helping me lots on what I want to upgrade to. Keep it going.

Just do camber arms first, good alignment will make a huge difference, but ideally u would do coilovers at the same time so you can corner balance and align it (pay alignment only once)

Tires and a diff will make the single biggest impact on how the car handles and exits the corner.

The coilover is not worth it. Save your 2k and get camber arms and sway

Even with stock vlsd, still manage fast laps, yes the diff is huge. Tires for us not so much in SoCal we run rs3 mostly and a few on Td's we don't run Hoosiers like NorCal or other areas.

Here are my rear spring dimensions that was asked prior 8"x2.25"x 450lbs