DRAG WHEEL/Tire setups

Z&I

Thanks,

Will PM you later tonight when I get home...all help welcome!

I did go to the track with a plan in mind - dial in the Race Logic and fiddle with the air pressure.
Wanted to do a pass with it all turned off as a control run but didn't get the chance.
The Race Logic helped with the wheel hop and allowed a much better shift and go in 2nd.
Disappointed with the 2.0 60' time tho ... took it for granted that it would give me better than 2.0 but it didn't.

Still might have been the cold tires and the clutch has been starting to slip as of late.
(couldn't find the rear brake fuse that has been mentioned)

Back to the drawing board ! try try again

The Z mods:
Stillen SC'r with a little over 8 lbs. Boost
PPI Long Tube Headers - Cat Delete
HKS Ti Exhaust
ACT clutch
Quaife LSD
Custom Tune

GTM Racelogic

Here is the link to the manufactrers site and Instructions ...
Since the product is continually being updated there is no CD...nor did it arrive with any kind of installation/operating instructions.

Traction Control

Look on the 1st Page for 'Digital Adjuster Manual'
(it's right under the Race Logic Traction Control face type)

And away we go !

Bob

Kojack

i disable the brake switch by installing a toggle switch and wire to a brake sensor behind the brake pedal. ( thanks to sharpbycooper ) This would be the best idea so you can turn on and off immediately rather than fiddling under the car or pop the hood to turn it back on

Also as for drag wheels, smallest i can go is 18'' wheel due to brake clearance and i got bf Goodrich DR tire. Haven't tried that yet but once the track opens at atco then i'll see

jchammond

Enjoy'd reading through all of the reply's.....i'm an old school drag-racer & am working on mine now...currently stock with only the drop in K&N filters.
i got lot's of ideas-but for sure//get rid of the negative camber in back...a tad positive wouldn't hurt any....not sure what rear gear you running-but 125 trap speed is very impressive...don't let this thread end,,,i will follow up.

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MazWorx built long block | FI-TT-100 Stage 2.75 | IPT built 7A/T

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jchammond

No new posts...getting ready to go racing soon,,,gotta break in the 12's (with paper ,stock air filter) so i will be bone stock-but will let my 125lb. daughter drive....guaranteed 12's

__________________
MazWorx built long block | FI-TT-100 Stage 2.75 | IPT built 7A/T

http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...s-musings.html

hustleman222

I thought I had read everything on this forum...glad I ran into this... Very helpful, and reassuring since I've been doing a lot of what y'all have already talked about. I wish we had more guys here doing this stuff.

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316whp/262tq 12.38 @ 110mph on 3.91 gears
336whp/273tq Didn't push it hard enough.
Turbo Time

sirnixalot

Thread necromancing comencing

I need to take a peep under the car to see if there is anyway we could relocate the upper control arm mounting point a tad higher but an easier way out may be a new upper arm?

https://meganracing.com/mrs-ns-0420.html

Adjust it longer so there isn't so much camber gain? I am not sure what length you would need to do that to actually effect change.

I am strongly considering downsizing the rear brakes to run 15's and redo the suspension height and alignment.

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2010 Sport - LS3 swap loading
2012 Frontier - BTWTuning VK56DE swap

370zbeast

I was going to go to 15 inch in back. I'm guessing just change the caliber and rotors and the 15 inch wheels will fit?

blueranger

Correct... Just swap the rears for 370Z Base Brakes & Calipers.

I run 15's

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F.I. Stage 1 Twin Turbo #48 | E85 FlexFuel | Built 7AT | F.I. 34 Row Oil Cooler | F.I. Flex Plate | F.I. 19 row Trans Cooler | MT ET Street S/S | ECUTEK Tuned by Seb | RPM Roll Bar

Chuck33079

I'm kinda glad you brought this one back from the dead. I almost miss Andre. We've had a lot of trolls on this site, but he was the only one that was completely batshit insane.

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2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

phunk

We have abandoned any suspension geometry changes since we have been able to 60’ 1.4 on the stock setup, while babying the stock axles. I think that next season we will be able to get into the 1.3s or 1.2s. Although some changes would still be nice for hooking up on street tires or while leaving the car slammed.

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sirnixalot

While I can imagine that info is proprietary, would you be willing to say if i went with the 15" setup, stock height and 0* camber I "should" be able to achieve in the 1.6-1.8 range?

Alternatively I have found that the R33 GTR 17x9's fit over the rear brakes, with 28x10.5 slicks on the 17's and the above suspension changes could I get in that ball park?

(I got your S1.SE fuel system 2-3 weeks ago, getting ready to get all that in with the GTR twins ala Husam's kit, hoping for anything north of 580whp/480wtq in my climate on VP's X85)

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2010 Sport - LS3 swap loading
2012 Frontier - BTWTuning VK56DE swap

phunk

I have updated my initial post to this thread:
DRAG WHEEL/Tire setups

I have not updated all my following posts, but I would ignore them. I tried to read all my old posts here and they were too embarrassing so I had to ignore them. This is a really old thread and we hadnt done much testing with different setups at the time.

You should have no trouble with 1.8s with the setup you listed. 1.6s? Maybe... if you are bias-ply its probably possible. But running at stock height will be the game changer.. lowering the car effects its ability to hook up much more than I ever realized previously. We have found a night and day difference.

Those GT-R turbos are going to spool hard and hit hard. Make sure to get a boost control system in place that can ramp the boost in. You can keep the instant spool sensation and let it hit a few psi right away but you dont want full boost until near redline. This boost control will help your project greatly in each department: traction, engine longevity, drivetrain component health.

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sirnixalot

Thanks for the updated information. I'll give the 28x10.5 bias ply 17's a shot first with the raised height and alignment.

Wonder if a dynalite caliper can be packaged over the 11.5" rotor to fit a 15" wheel......

__________________
2010 Sport - LS3 swap loading
2012 Frontier - BTWTuning VK56DE swap

BOLIO 671

It’s been awhile since I’ve been in this thread. I currently have 305/35/18 Hoosier drag radials on 18X10.5 TSWs.... best 60ft I’ve ever got on these was a 1.7.... I was speaking with a local GTR owner who was able to pull off running 28” M&H slicks on Enkei PF01s.... was wondering if these will fit on the Zs rear with the OEM Sports/Nismo brake setup.

Awhile back people were saying the smallest u could go with the oem akebono brakes were 18” for clearance ..:but I’ve recently heard and read of 17’s fitting wondering with the 28 x 10.5 bias ply setup like sirnixalot posted. Can any of u gentlemen confirm????

Attached is the pic of the GTR on the Enkei PF01s tuning the M&H 28” slicks

Attached Images

	BB6FACE3-B922-4090-8C23-9D0E2FA11DDD.jpeg (106.3 KB, 14 views)
	370BF719-0E90-4767-9B6A-3452FD704F84.jpeg (44.4 KB, 12 views)

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2013 Nismo Z34 / FI TT #091 / IG: @lilzilla_z34

solidus

The 305/45 17 is basically a 28 seeing as it's 27.8. That's the size ET street R I have to run with Weld 17x10.5s with a 6.5 offset. I haven't mounted the tires yet but the wheels fit and clear the calipers. So a 28" bias ply should be on point.