Kinda at the same point myself now.

Thinking about revisiting it though instead of using the supplied 90 Barb for the passenger side was thinking about converting to these.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fr...UqUaAhqI8P8HAQ
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-15635/overview/

In case something requires me to go back into the tank It'd be much easier to redo things inside vs trying to get the hose barbs on/off.

I have ran mine down to NO Dots on the track with RRP. You just have to love it.

There is currently a road race pump in stock available to ship out this week.

Dibs go to "nvdave04", then "ed caranci", then "nomodsjk", and then a fellow who emailed me... if we hear back from any of them.

I will give it until Wednesday for anyone with dibs to claim it, after that its first come first serve.

Going to start my install this weekend :ugh2:

I will definitely jump on it if those guys don't....

So far it hasnt been claimed so we will be for certain on it tomorrow

according to my timehop, I installed mine 3 years ago today! No issues since

I just placed my order. Looking forward to getting it!

AnthonyD1978, I see you're in Socal also. Maybe we can do a tech day and help each other install this thing!

If there is any left I will take one

The known available unit was claimed by boosted180 who was earlier on the backup list.

I will process that and update the list tomorrow morning.

The last unit which was reserved for Arvaxx may become available yet... Haven't heard from him in a little while.

No sure you will get it in time. Do you have install space for 2 cars? I only have a single car garage so will be doing most of the work in my driveway. Another local member has one to install too, but I think he's having a shop do it.

OK this will be the final list posted for this. boosted180's unit is boxed and labeled and headed out tomorrow.

The unit reserved by Arrvaxx is still up in the air. I emailed him to let him know it will be released Saturday. If he doesnt scoop it up, ban25 is the most current person to speak up for one.


CURRENT UPDATED LISTS 9/7/15:

Interest list for abandoned pre-sales:
1: derraj06 6/5/15
2: nvdave04 7/9/15
3: ed caranci 7/21/15
4: nomodsjk 7/27/15
5: ban25


PRE-SALE LIST:
1: Spec Jay - SHIPPED
2: 1cleanZ - SHIPPED
3: AnthonyD1978 - SHIPPED
4: tracyx`9 - SHIPPED
5: vestitozed - SHIPPED
6: GSS138 - SHIPPED
7: a.stewart4242 - SHIPPED
8: J.L. - SHIPPED
9: Arrvaxx - PAID
10: boosted180 - SHIPPED
11: ValidusVentus - SHIPPED
12: SurfDog - SHIPPED

Took the day off and had some time to start the install before heading to an appointment.

Basically did all the work you can do without taking the metal covers off the fuel tank. Even ran the electrical and mount d the pump relay. Found a pretty ingenious spot to mount the relay close to the surge tank lol. Located some factory ground points for the relay also.

Going to head to the store later to pick up some wiring connectors for the relay wires.

Will finish up the install this weekend or during the Monday holiday.

Fingers crossed.

phunk, are you saying you are not making any more? I hope not, I want to get one in the near future. I'm tired of topping off...:eekdance:

Hey buddy, PM'd you for one.. If available. Thnx

phunk, I think you better start round 3. :icon17:

I may have mine for sale in the next couple month. barely used, I installed mine couple months ago.

I know there were a few problems left to work out on the 2nd gen of the product, along with other more important projects, but I hope it's still on the drawing board. Is that the case?

If not we need more of these!

I'm interested if he doesn't purchase it.. :tiphat:

There might be another batch pretty soon if the next version keeps getting pushed back.

The fuel pump I wanted to base it on has been somewhat retracted from availability and so I have to go back to the drawing board on it. I could make it and base it on another pump pretty much any time its just difficult to prioritize putting lots of time into finishing the design and having to test a new version when the existing one seems to be working great.


I agree... I might have to get material on the way and do it again.

Thoughts about this Charles? Or maybe even using the same quick releases that the passenger side uses?

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There should be enough slack on the hoses to just cut off the ends and then put them back on a couple times. I didnt do anything like you are suggesting because I figured its hard enough to get your hands in there, people might not like having to get tools in too. But the option is yours, after-all it is just a hose connection and there are endless ways to achieve it.

Phunk, where does the black and the yellow relay socket wires attach too??

I've confused myself going between your instructions and the DW instructions. Do they both go to the external connector on the DRIVERS side??

Or one to the drivers side and one ran to the passenger OEM pump? If one goes to each side then what about the positive and negative wire from the RRP that you connected to the internal plug on the drivers side? Shouldn't those both be used in the external connector pin out?

Need specifics lol.

Took a 3 hour break from the install today. Probably could have finished it if it were for the break. I called it a night when it got dark. But all I have left are those 2 wires.

Install wasn't too bad. Just very time consuming. If I could do it again I would have sourced some very long angle needle nose pliers for the "hard part" of the install.

yellow and white need to go to the drivers side connector.
red goes to the harness on the passenger
blue to battery source (I went to the wire that powers my amp)

The instructions are the same except the DW uses different wire colors than the original relay kit that used to come with (painless wiring product).

If you follow the DW instructions that came inside the relay kit box, that will address the correct wire colors for their product.

The black wire is the 12v switch to relay. This wire is what will trigger the RRP to turn on. I would splice it into the factory fuel pump power wire on the passenger side, but its open to other activation sources if you wish..

The yellow wire is the 12v power to pump. This is the wire that will go to the RRP connector pin that corresponds to your positive (+) internal connector pin.

For the negative fuel pump wire for the RRP fuel pump, this needs a ground source. You can ground it to the chassis or any ground point, such as the relay ground point.

The white wire for the relay kit is a ground, and can be grounded to the chassis or any ground point. I would just ground it to the same bolt that you attach the relay mount with, and I would ground the RRP fuel pump to the same place to keep things simple.

Perfect! Thanks Phunk! Makes complete sense now. Too much gas fumes is my excuse.

No problem it can be confusing. I need to get some updates done to the instructions

Well I decided to finish up the install tonight since you were so quick to respond. 6-8 tries strarting the car. No luck so far. The engine is trying to start, but it doesn't fire up. I can hear the relay switching on behind me. Don't think I hear the pumps though. Reading 2 dots on the fuel gauge which seems accurate consider how much fuel I put back in.

Look at it in the morning lol.

Edit: just read your comments again. Forgot to run a negative wire for the RRP from the external connector pin. I will fix it in the morning. I need to sleep.

It's alive!

Thanks Phunk for the great service.

Drove it with 2 dots on the fuel gauge. Took it around th block a few times until 1 dot and 0 miles left on the range.

Filled up 17.1 gallons, but only got 3/4 tank reading on the gauge. Looks like the arms isn't getting full upward motion. So is worse case my fuel gauge won't read accurate until below 3/4 tank in the actual gas tank? Below that it will start reading correct?

If so I may just live with it a little while.

Edit: what's weird is that when I filled up my fuel range said 340miles. Which is what I usually get on a full tank if I remember right. Makes me think something is telling the car I have a full tank.

Sounds like the gas pump might have stopped short. The car should take about 19 gallons from an empty tank.

If the tank truly was full, this is where the voltmeter will need to be used to diagnose your level sensor issue. With a full tank, you can check the resistance at the connector on both sides to determine which side is not getting a full reading from the sensor.

I thought the fuel pump stopped short too so I went to another pump, but it would not pump any more in.

So will it read accurately once the fuel tank actually gets below 3/4 tank? I would think so.

I may check the drivers side in the near future, but no way in hell in going to pull the pump on the passenger side again.

It might, it depends on why its not reading correctly to begin with.

Fuel lever started reading fine after 3/4 tank like I hoped.

I think whats causing the problem is the baffle you're supposed to bend. I bent basically the whole baffle up to the top of the tank thinking it would be better to just get the whole thing out of the way since it's pretty worthless. Well when I tested the clearance of the sensor I only concentrated on the lower part of the sweep since that's usually the main concern. I didn't pay attention to the top part of the sweep. If you do it my way you won't have to worry about it clearing the low part. Just make sure you get the baffle flush with the tank roof.

I will fix it later, but right now it's not a concern since the gauge reads accurate once the gas tank gets below 3/4 tank. Sharing so you can learn from my mistake.

I think I smell some gas in the car. Bought gas friendly RTV sealant. Going to check the flange screws to see if they are leaking from the threads. I could just be paranoid and it's just from my test pipes though.

I had to put fuel resistant sealant as well.

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The 3 studs going through the top need a thread sealant on them since they go all the way down into the canister. Fuel will wick up the threads and put some dampness on top of the billet flange. Other than that, the only other place for a possible leak is the normal fuel tank gasket.

I have an emergency. Pump died in the middle of the street 1000mi from home. Stock pump is working. How do I rig is back to work on just the stock pump as fast as possible?

I think connecting hoses 1 and 2 should do the trick. This should shortcut the rrp and the intank tank altogether.
Problem is to find some plug to be able to do it.

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that'smy idea, but which is which and how to connect is the issue. homedepot is close, but can't get there

is one the front and 2 the middle on driver side?