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Awesome, glad you guys are getting some prep done! What size A6s did you go with? You say go fast googies, usually go fast means power mods so an air

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Old 02-28-2010, 07:38 PM   #166 (permalink)
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Awesome, glad you guys are getting some prep done! What size A6s did you go with? You say go fast googies, usually go fast means power mods so an air filter is all thats left, but in autoxing, shocks in stock class make you go lotttttsss faster then an airfilter, so please tell me you are getting shocks!
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Old 03-01-2010, 07:41 AM   #167 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruff View Post
Awesome, glad you guys are getting some prep done! What size A6s did you go with? You say go fast googies, usually go fast means power mods so an air filter is all thats left, but in autoxing, shocks in stock class make you go lotttttsss faster then an airfilter, so please tell me you are getting shocks!


I went 295 square on the hoosiers
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Old 03-01-2010, 02:20 PM   #168 (permalink)
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You guys think I would still be in B stock if I went back to stock airboxes but used COBB post-MAF tubes instead? Right now having Stillen G3 bumps me to BSP, correct?

<-- still an AutoX newbie.
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Old 03-01-2010, 03:24 PM   #169 (permalink)
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can't touch the intake at all.....only change the drop in filters.....like a K&N or HKS

Shocks are free to play with, as long as you use stock springs, and the mounts and perches must be of factory specs

CBE is free...with some gothcha's such as messing with hangers, body work, etc

brake pads are free to play with, but no SS line upgrades...or calipers

no changes outside of factory adjustments for camber/caster....but you can loosen up all bolts and tug and pull whatever camber you can get before locking things into place....

air filters....drop in type....with no modifications to the airbox of any kind

no electronics, mass air flow or anything along that line...

and front swaybar with endlinks are free to play with...but cant touch rear bar...

That's the baseline of stock class allowances....
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Old 03-01-2010, 06:04 PM   #170 (permalink)
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And don't forget any DOT approved tire you want, aka Hoosier A6's.
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Old 03-05-2010, 01:34 AM   #171 (permalink)
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hey guys,
Sorry it's 3 am here in east coast and I am too exhausted to look through every post. So i'm just going to go ahead and ask the question

What would you tell a novice autox'er who's autox'ing their 370Z for the first time? Things like Tire pressure (front rear) , looking ahead, tips, tricks etc.

thanks
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Old 03-05-2010, 07:09 AM   #172 (permalink)
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hey guys,
Sorry it's 3 am here in east coast and I am too exhausted to look through every post. So i'm just going to go ahead and ask the question

What would you tell a novice autox'er who's autox'ing their 370Z for the first time? Things like Tire pressure (front rear) , looking ahead, tips, tricks etc.

thanks
On stock suspension with stock tires I think I ran pressures of 38F 35R hot.

General setup tips:
If you like having a shiny car put some painters tape in the "conage" areas.
Recheck wheel torque at the track
Give the car a check a day or two before at minimum, check brake pads, brake fluid and oil level.
Remove everything from the car including floor mats
Wear comfortable running shoes that don't have a lip that is going to get caught up on the edge of the pedals
Bring lots of water

Technique:
Walk the track with a friendly veteran, they will talk you through car placement, braking zones etc.
Try to visualize the course you just walked in your head.
Take it easy on the first couple of runs and try to be smooth especially with throttle inputs.
You're far better off braking a little early and giving up a tenth vs running out of room and plowing around the corner.
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Old 03-07-2010, 04:04 PM   #173 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks View Post
On stock suspension with stock tires I think I ran pressures of 38F 35R hot.

General setup tips:
If you like having a shiny car put some painters tape in the "conage" areas.
Recheck wheel torque at the track
Give the car a check a day or two before at minimum, check brake pads, brake fluid and oil level.
Remove everything from the car including floor mats
Wear comfortable running shoes that don't have a lip that is going to get caught up on the edge of the pedals
Bring lots of water

Technique:
Walk the track with a friendly veteran, they will talk you through car placement, braking zones etc.
Try to visualize the course you just walked in your head.
Take it easy on the first couple of runs and try to be smooth especially with throttle inputs.
You're far better off braking a little early and giving up a tenth vs running out of room and plowing around the corner.

Thanks a lot man. I didn't post here but I did check it the day before the event.

I did the track walk and kept an instructor as a passenger in the very first run. Your last sentence is VERY true. I am far better off braking and losing a small time than knocking a cone over and lose two seconds.


BTW, if anyone interested, here's the thread: NJ Motorsports Park Winter Autox series #3 March 6th (pics/video inside)
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My Monterey Blue Z ll My Exhaust --> My Intake --> G3
Nissan's Official Response Regarding Oil Temp Issue: CLICK HERE
Need a Set of Cheap Winter wheels /Tires? Then Visit The Banner Link Below and Place Your Order. You'll Help Keep The370Z Alive.
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Old 03-08-2010, 06:41 PM   #174 (permalink)
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So question for those with experience running Hoosiers on 350's.

Right now I have 10 runs on my tires with the TX NT coming up at the end of the month. With a co-driver and practice/reruns I'm planning on racking up another 15 or so runs at the tour. My tires do not need to be flipped right now but I can't really tell if they'll last through the Tour without having issues. So for those with experience on 350's about how many runs could you get out of the fronts before hitting the cords?
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Old 03-08-2010, 08:00 PM   #175 (permalink)
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You might want to post the question on my350z.com

I only co-drove a car on Hoosiers, and never ran my own on hoosiers. After the two days at Nats, they had already taken a beating and were needing to be flipped in my opinion.

If you can get them flipped for cheap or free, then I'd say go ahead and do it now.
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Old 03-09-2010, 05:49 PM   #176 (permalink)
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care to share what pressures are you running in the A6's??? baseline?
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Old 03-09-2010, 08:28 PM   #177 (permalink)
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care to share what pressures are you running in the A6's??? baseline?
IIRC 35-36 front and 32-33 rear. Just make sure you aren't rolling over on the sides or you'll destroy the tires really quick.
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Old 03-27-2010, 06:18 PM   #178 (permalink)
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Update from the Texas NT:

The course was ridiculously fast. I was at the top of second for the majority of the course. I finished the day ~1.5 seconds behind dan pedroza in his MSR and left alot of time out on course. So in all I'm pretty happy with my times considering the competition and stock shocks just need to really try and take advantage of my three runs.
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Old 03-29-2010, 10:06 AM   #179 (permalink)
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Nice Trophy spot! Looks like you had a tough time on day 2 with no clean runs, but your raw time without the cone was 6/10 behind so nice job.

Had my first event on the Hoosiers yesterday, although it was cold and damp, temps in the 40/50s at best...but the car felt great in the slaloms and the sweepers so was real happy with the first real outing! Anxious for warmer temps so I can actually get some good grip out of the tires!
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Old 03-29-2010, 06:02 PM   #180 (permalink)
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Yea I feel like I drove 10x better on day 2 but my fastest run was still very sloppy. If I'd been completely on my game I feel I could have beat Pedroza but still I'm very happy with the results. If you can use your shocks to loosen up the back-end alittle bit the car should be very unstoppable.
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