What are the best suspension mods for the 370 for DD and some track use?

wstar · 09-21-2011, 06:22 PM

I donno, just by the math the lightweight front rotors (-10 lbs per front corner, rotating and unsprung) should be a pretty decent little acceleration boost. Even by a reasonable estimate of calling that worth 5x regular sprung weight, that's like taking 100 lbs out of the car acceleration-wise. So ballpark equivalent to ~10hp in engine gains on a Z? Very fuzzy conversions there, and still not nearly as important as anything else mentioned above, but still I'd say it does make a difference.

The main problem with the lightweight 2-piece rotor setups is they cost too much for what they give you.

XwChriswX · 09-21-2011, 06:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

I donno, just by the math the lightweight front rotors (-10 lbs per front corner, rotating and unsprung) should be a pretty decent little acceleration boost. Even by a reasonable estimate of calling that worth 5x regular sprung weight, that's like taking 100 lbs out of the car acceleration-wise. So ballpark equivalent to ~10hp in engine gains on a Z? Very fuzzy conversions there, and still not nearly as important as anything else mentioned above, but still I'd say it does make a difference.

The main problem with the lightweight 2-piece rotor setups is they cost too much for what they give you.

Which is the reason for my next question, and my biggest one...

I do plan to turn my Z one day into a dedicated track car... So to me getting the 2 piece rotors is functional, maybe not tomorrow, but down the line... And I don't like to buy parts, to have to buy the same thing again later...

With that being said, 2 piece ones are very expensive, so are the lighter weight than stock one piece rotors alright, or at least good enough to withstand DDing and occasional track days without sacrificing too much performance gain from floating 2 piece ones?

Long story short, I dont want to buy a set of rotors, to switch them out again later, so is it worth it to go ahead and get 2 pieces instead of singles?

ChrisSlicks · 09-21-2011, 07:16 PM

2-piece rotors might give you a "slight" acceleration boost, I didn't notice anything striking. Only my front rotors are significantly lighter, the rears are within a pound or two as they have iron hats.

A while back Grassroots Motorsports did a laptime test using different weight wheels, the times were all extremely close. In fact they noted a higher top speed with the heavier wheels (the rotating weight acts like a flywheel does).

Forget lightweight 1-piece rotors, those are not suitable for tracking. You are just reducing mass that can absorb the thermal energy from braking.

The real question you have to ask yourself before buying 2-piece rotors is how much is it going to cost in the long run? I have to replace my rotor rings after every 12-14 track days. Theoretically new rings should run about the same as new 1-piece rotors but you are at the mercy of the vendor. Make sure you find out the replacement cost before buying - usually new mounting hardware is required every time as well (hat to ring screws, nuts and washers). For me the cost is an acceptable trade off, but do your homework first.

XwChriswX · 09-21-2011, 10:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks

2-piece rotors might give you a "slight" acceleration boost, I didn't notice anything striking. Only my front rotors are significantly lighter, the rears are within a pound or two as they have iron hats.

A while back Grassroots Motorsports did a laptime test using different weight wheels, the times were all extremely close. In fact they noted a higher top speed with the heavier wheels (the rotating weight acts like a flywheel does).

Forget lightweight 1-piece rotors, those are not suitable for tracking. You are just reducing mass that can absorb the thermal energy from braking.

The real question you have to ask yourself before buying 2-piece rotors is how much is it going to cost in the long run? I have to replace my rotor rings after every 12-14 track days. Theoretically new rings should run about the same as new 1-piece rotors but you are at the mercy of the vendor. Make sure you find out the replacement cost before buying - usually new mounting hardware is required every time as well (hat to ring screws, nuts and washers). For me the cost is an acceptable trade off, but do your homework first.

Thanks for the info... So say which do you think would be a better introductory set of rotors for someone who probably won't have that many events per year...

FS: DBA 5000s 2 Piece

Or

BNIB Racing Brake 2 Piece Front Rotors

ChrisSlicks · 09-21-2011, 11:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XwChriswX

Thanks for the info... So say which do you think would be a better introductory set of rotors for someone who probably won't have that many events per year...

FS: DBA 5000s 2 Piece

Or

BNIB Racing Brake 2 Piece Front Rotors

Between DBA's and no names, that is a no brainer. DBA for sure. Good steal and design is as important as anything and DBA has it. DBA also stands behind their product 100%.

XwChriswX · 09-21-2011, 11:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks

Between DBA's and no names, that is a no brainer. DBA for sure. Good steal and design is as important as anything and DBA has it. DBA also stands behind their product 100%.

Racing Brake is a no name brand??

Ok, then if one were to stay DBA, would you recommend the one piece 4000 or the two piece 5000, those two pieces are FS with very light use, or a brand new set... The 4000's are single piece, but half the price... so in the end you could get all 4 4000's for the price of the front 5000's...

This is for DD and good canyon runs + eventual track days. When it comes time for serious tracking, I could always upgrade right?

And if one were to just get the fronts with stock rears, would that hamper the braking system? Or is it recommended to just swap all 4 out at the same time?

ChrisSlicks · 09-22-2011, 06:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XwChriswX

Racing Brake is a no name brand??

Ok, then if one were to stay DBA, would you recommend the one piece 4000 or the two piece 5000, those two pieces are FS with very light use, or a brand new set... The 4000's are single piece, but half the price... so in the end you could get all 4 4000's for the price of the front 5000's...

This is for DD and good canyon runs + eventual track days. When it comes time for serious tracking, I could always upgrade right?

And if one were to just get the fronts with stock rears, would that hamper the braking system? Or is it recommended to just swap all 4 out at the same time?

Sorry I though they were using the term generically, didn't see the RB logo.

In your case I would go with DBA 4000's as a replacement rotor. There is no point doing a 2-piece rotor now if the track is still a long way away. They would perform admirably on the track anyway.

09-21-2011, 06:22 PM	#1 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3595	I donno, just by the math the lightweight front rotors (-10 lbs per front corner, rotating and unsprung) should be a pretty decent little acceleration boost. Even by a reasonable estimate of calling that worth 5x regular sprung weight, that's like taking 100 lbs out of the car acceleration-wise. So ballpark equivalent to ~10hp in engine gains on a Z? Very fuzzy conversions there, and still not nearly as important as anything else mentioned above, but still I'd say it does make a difference. The main problem with the lightweight 2-piece rotor setups is they cost too much for what they give you. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

09-21-2011, 07:16 PM	#3 (permalink)
ChrisSlicks A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: North East Posts: 6,203 Drives: 09 370Z Sport M6 Rep Power: 654	2-piece rotors might give you a "slight" acceleration boost, I didn't notice anything striking. Only my front rotors are significantly lighter, the rears are within a pound or two as they have iron hats. A while back Grassroots Motorsports did a laptime test using different weight wheels, the times were all extremely close. In fact they noted a higher top speed with the heavier wheels (the rotating weight acts like a flywheel does). Forget lightweight 1-piece rotors, those are not suitable for tracking. You are just reducing mass that can absorb the thermal energy from braking. The real question you have to ask yourself before buying 2-piece rotors is how much is it going to cost in the long run? I have to replace my rotor rings after every 12-14 track days. Theoretically new rings should run about the same as new 1-piece rotors but you are at the mercy of the vendor. Make sure you find out the replacement cost before buying - usually new mounting hardware is required every time as well (hat to ring screws, nuts and washers). For me the cost is an acceptable trade off, but do your homework first. __________________ Hotchkis ARB \| Stillen CAI \| Art Pipes \| Berk CBE \| Stillen AP Racing Brakes \| AE Performance Oil Cooler \| BC Racing ER Coilovers \| Doran Control Arms

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
370Z Sport (option) Suspension vs. Nismo suspension	355890	Brakes & Suspension	19	07-19-2022 01:04 PM
MVP Track Time 2011 Midwest Track Schedule	Feffman	Mid Western Region	2	07-29-2011 01:32 PM
350Z Nismo suspension VS 370Z nismo suspension	Zat_Zuma	Brakes & Suspension	10	11-12-2010 07:42 PM
MVP Track Time 2010 Track Dates and Invitation	Feffman	Track / Autocross / Drifting / Dragstrip	9	06-18-2010 12:21 PM
Suspension mods	GTRFAN	Australia/New Zealand	15	12-28-2009 09:31 PM