What are the best suspension mods for the 370 for DD and some track use?

XwChriswX · 09-21-2011, 03:54 PM

So after getting upgraded pads/lines/fluid... would you recommend lighter weight (slotted/dimpled/drilled) rotors, or are the stock ones sufficient to be continually pushed?

Basically short version, would you say get nicer rotors next, or just get sways then rotors later?

cossie1600 · 09-21-2011, 04:15 PM

they should probably add that for awd drivers too.........

sig11 · 09-21-2011, 04:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XwChriswX

So after getting upgraded pads/lines/fluid... would you recommend lighter weight (slotted/dimpled/drilled) rotors, or are the stock ones sufficient to be continually pushed?

Basically short version, would you say get nicer rotors next, or just get sways then rotors later?

Wait on rotors until you need to replace the stock ones. There is another thread around here that discusses it a bit more in depth.

XwChriswX · 09-21-2011, 04:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sig11

Wait on rotors until you need to replace the stock ones. There is another thread around here that discusses it a bit more in depth.

I know that lighter weight rotors are what you want... for a full on setup.

But being realistic in terms of a street car going on the track, when you swap from say stock rotors to aftermarket rotors, in terms of weight savings... is it THAT noticable from the seat?

cossie1600 · 09-21-2011, 05:33 PM

virtually none for a non professional driver....

XwChriswX · 09-21-2011, 06:11 PM

So basically Pads/Fluid/SS Lines is really all you need, and rotors are something that if you get a good deal on, or just want the look... they can wait.

Sways first...

wstar · 09-21-2011, 06:22 PM

I donno, just by the math the lightweight front rotors (-10 lbs per front corner, rotating and unsprung) should be a pretty decent little acceleration boost. Even by a reasonable estimate of calling that worth 5x regular sprung weight, that's like taking 100 lbs out of the car acceleration-wise. So ballpark equivalent to ~10hp in engine gains on a Z? Very fuzzy conversions there, and still not nearly as important as anything else mentioned above, but still I'd say it does make a difference.

The main problem with the lightweight 2-piece rotor setups is they cost too much for what they give you.

Red__Zed · 09-21-2011, 06:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cossie1600

virtually none for a non professional driver....

my autoX times dropped notably from swapping to lighter rotors.

XwChriswX · 09-21-2011, 06:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

I donno, just by the math the lightweight front rotors (-10 lbs per front corner, rotating and unsprung) should be a pretty decent little acceleration boost. Even by a reasonable estimate of calling that worth 5x regular sprung weight, that's like taking 100 lbs out of the car acceleration-wise. So ballpark equivalent to ~10hp in engine gains on a Z? Very fuzzy conversions there, and still not nearly as important as anything else mentioned above, but still I'd say it does make a difference.

The main problem with the lightweight 2-piece rotor setups is they cost too much for what they give you.

Which is the reason for my next question, and my biggest one...

I do plan to turn my Z one day into a dedicated track car... So to me getting the 2 piece rotors is functional, maybe not tomorrow, but down the line... And I don't like to buy parts, to have to buy the same thing again later...

With that being said, 2 piece ones are very expensive, so are the lighter weight than stock one piece rotors alright, or at least good enough to withstand DDing and occasional track days without sacrificing too much performance gain from floating 2 piece ones?

Long story short, I dont want to buy a set of rotors, to switch them out again later, so is it worth it to go ahead and get 2 pieces instead of singles?

cossie1600 · 09-21-2011, 07:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Red__Zed

my autoX times dropped notably from swapping to lighter rotors.

Placebo effect.

If it was that easy to pick up time, people wouldn't be wasting money buying tires. This is especially true at the amateur level as most aren't getting enough out of their car. I am not saying it doesn't help, just not at $300 per corner.....

Also do you know what class you will be running? If you ever want to compete for time/standing, you have to modify your car within the rules. You can't just put parts on it without knowing how it will impact you.

ChrisSlicks · 09-21-2011, 07:16 PM

2-piece rotors might give you a "slight" acceleration boost, I didn't notice anything striking. Only my front rotors are significantly lighter, the rears are within a pound or two as they have iron hats.

A while back Grassroots Motorsports did a laptime test using different weight wheels, the times were all extremely close. In fact they noted a higher top speed with the heavier wheels (the rotating weight acts like a flywheel does).

Forget lightweight 1-piece rotors, those are not suitable for tracking. You are just reducing mass that can absorb the thermal energy from braking.

The real question you have to ask yourself before buying 2-piece rotors is how much is it going to cost in the long run? I have to replace my rotor rings after every 12-14 track days. Theoretically new rings should run about the same as new 1-piece rotors but you are at the mercy of the vendor. Make sure you find out the replacement cost before buying - usually new mounting hardware is required every time as well (hat to ring screws, nuts and washers). For me the cost is an acceptable trade off, but do your homework first.

XwChriswX · 09-21-2011, 10:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks

2-piece rotors might give you a "slight" acceleration boost, I didn't notice anything striking. Only my front rotors are significantly lighter, the rears are within a pound or two as they have iron hats.

A while back Grassroots Motorsports did a laptime test using different weight wheels, the times were all extremely close. In fact they noted a higher top speed with the heavier wheels (the rotating weight acts like a flywheel does).

Forget lightweight 1-piece rotors, those are not suitable for tracking. You are just reducing mass that can absorb the thermal energy from braking.

The real question you have to ask yourself before buying 2-piece rotors is how much is it going to cost in the long run? I have to replace my rotor rings after every 12-14 track days. Theoretically new rings should run about the same as new 1-piece rotors but you are at the mercy of the vendor. Make sure you find out the replacement cost before buying - usually new mounting hardware is required every time as well (hat to ring screws, nuts and washers). For me the cost is an acceptable trade off, but do your homework first.

Thanks for the info... So say which do you think would be a better introductory set of rotors for someone who probably won't have that many events per year...

FS: DBA 5000s 2 Piece

Or

BNIB Racing Brake 2 Piece Front Rotors

Red__Zed · 09-21-2011, 11:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cossie1600

Placebo effect.

If it was that easy to pick up time, people wouldn't be wasting money buying tires. This is especially true at the amateur level as most aren't getting enough out of their car. I am not saying it doesn't help, just not at $300 per corner.....

Also do you know what class you will be running? If you ever want to compete for time/standing, you have to modify your car within the rules. You can't just put parts on it without knowing how it will impact you.

we run a different set of rules down here, unfortunately. It's a blend of old and new rules, I don't really understand where they get it. They were keeping the Z classed in B stock and BSP, but wouldn't let me run Nismo width rims...
I'll have to dig up my datalogs, there was actually a notable difference. Don't necessarily disagree that it may not be worth the price, just sharing my results...

ChrisSlicks · 09-21-2011, 11:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XwChriswX

Thanks for the info... So say which do you think would be a better introductory set of rotors for someone who probably won't have that many events per year...

FS: DBA 5000s 2 Piece

Or

BNIB Racing Brake 2 Piece Front Rotors

Between DBA's and no names, that is a no brainer. DBA for sure. Good steal and design is as important as anything and DBA has it. DBA also stands behind their product 100%.

XwChriswX · 09-21-2011, 11:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks

Between DBA's and no names, that is a no brainer. DBA for sure. Good steal and design is as important as anything and DBA has it. DBA also stands behind their product 100%.

Racing Brake is a no name brand??

Ok, then if one were to stay DBA, would you recommend the one piece 4000 or the two piece 5000, those two pieces are FS with very light use, or a brand new set... The 4000's are single piece, but half the price... so in the end you could get all 4 4000's for the price of the front 5000's...

This is for DD and good canyon runs + eventual track days. When it comes time for serious tracking, I could always upgrade right?

And if one were to just get the fronts with stock rears, would that hamper the braking system? Or is it recommended to just swap all 4 out at the same time?

09-21-2011, 03:54 PM	#31 (permalink)
XwChriswX WFLYIDNNE Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: In The Fastlane Posts: 50,648 Drives: 02 GDB WRX Rep Power: 451	So after getting upgraded pads/lines/fluid... would you recommend lighter weight (slotted/dimpled/drilled) rotors, or are the stock ones sufficient to be continually pushed? Basically short version, would you say get nicer rotors next, or just get sways then rotors later? __________________ Bonnie - Stage 2, Audio build coming this fall! R.I.P. Abby 3/29/10 - 3/30/14

09-21-2011, 06:11 PM	#36 (permalink)
XwChriswX WFLYIDNNE Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: In The Fastlane Posts: 50,648 Drives: 02 GDB WRX Rep Power: 451	So basically Pads/Fluid/SS Lines is really all you need, and rotors are something that if you get a good deal on, or just want the look... they can wait. Sways first... __________________ Bonnie - Stage 2, Audio build coming this fall! R.I.P. Abby 3/29/10 - 3/30/14

09-21-2011, 06:22 PM	#37 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	I donno, just by the math the lightweight front rotors (-10 lbs per front corner, rotating and unsprung) should be a pretty decent little acceleration boost. Even by a reasonable estimate of calling that worth 5x regular sprung weight, that's like taking 100 lbs out of the car acceleration-wise. So ballpark equivalent to ~10hp in engine gains on a Z? Very fuzzy conversions there, and still not nearly as important as anything else mentioned above, but still I'd say it does make a difference. The main problem with the lightweight 2-piece rotor setups is they cost too much for what they give you. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

09-21-2011, 07:16 PM	#41 (permalink)
ChrisSlicks A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: North East Posts: 6,203 Drives: 09 370Z Sport M6 Rep Power: 653	2-piece rotors might give you a "slight" acceleration boost, I didn't notice anything striking. Only my front rotors are significantly lighter, the rears are within a pound or two as they have iron hats. A while back Grassroots Motorsports did a laptime test using different weight wheels, the times were all extremely close. In fact they noted a higher top speed with the heavier wheels (the rotating weight acts like a flywheel does). Forget lightweight 1-piece rotors, those are not suitable for tracking. You are just reducing mass that can absorb the thermal energy from braking. The real question you have to ask yourself before buying 2-piece rotors is how much is it going to cost in the long run? I have to replace my rotor rings after every 12-14 track days. Theoretically new rings should run about the same as new 1-piece rotors but you are at the mercy of the vendor. Make sure you find out the replacement cost before buying - usually new mounting hardware is required every time as well (hat to ring screws, nuts and washers). For me the cost is an acceptable trade off, but do your homework first. __________________ Hotchkis ARB \| Stillen CAI \| Art Pipes \| Berk CBE \| Stillen AP Racing Brakes \| AE Performance Oil Cooler \| BC Racing ER Coilovers \| Doran Control Arms

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09-21-2011, 04:15 PM	#32 (permalink)
cossie1600 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: californee way Posts: 5,380 Drives: 370, Leaf Rep Power: 29	they should probably add that for awd drivers too.........

09-21-2011, 05:33 PM	#35 (permalink)
cossie1600 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: californee way Posts: 5,380 Drives: 370, Leaf Rep Power: 29	virtually none for a non professional driver....