This only further proves my frustration and point that the 7AT have it made. Not only that they are Auto, but their gearing just seems to be ideal for an N/A Z. Very nice times. Very jealous.

Great idea! I think this could be a great father daughter project as my younger daughter likes Hello Kitty stuff!

It's not just the gearing but manual shift mode is very quick. Shifting at 7500rpm with the paddles is almost two tenths quicker than just leaving it in D. It shifts smoothly in automatic mode and hard and fast in manual mode.

I recently found the timeslips from my last visit to the track.

Here's the copy of the timeslip for my best time (sorry for the huge pic)
http://i.imgur.com/hoVN7eD.jpg

I had other runs with better 60' times and higher trap speeds but this one was the best elapsed time.

It's a 2011 Touring Sport 7AT with Stillen Gen3s and Berk HFC on stock tires with 20k miles.

I hit the strip on Wednesday and pulled a 13.38 with a 2.05 60ft. I have a 2013 with the 7AT.

Bone stock/ :driving:

was at the strip this past weekend
09' base/sport 6m
bad whether (40 degrees), and track prep
bad 60ft (2.29:mad:)-
13.4 at 107 what do you guys think???

mods: Litespeed titanuim intake
5Zigen headers
Berk HFC
Tanabe cat back
no tune!!

Not bad at all with that 60' IMO

Why bad weather???
 

40 degrees is great. Was it raining/very humid??

As far as 2.29 60' ? I'd rather not comment. Is this your first time at the track? What tires/wheels are you using. I can help only if you like. I don't want to be in a position where help might not be wanted. Before you answer, I have to tell you that if asked, I will be brutally honest. Not a believer in that new teaching that " we are all winners" "everybody gets a ribbon" God forbid the a kid comes in dead last in his school's running race & doesn't get a ribbon. :rolleyes:

first time at the track with the Z. did couple more runs were both about the same 2.2-2.3 60ft. sport wheels 19x10 on continental DWS. I would spin really bad off the line if i launch more than about idle-1200rpm, (I know i need some RE-11's or a different wheel/tire package, and some gears…….
humidity was about 70% and it really felt less than 40deg.

GOOD-I can get you under 12.8's without trying
 

You have large wheels & tires + no gears! That = less than just no gears.
You must be a good driver to get to that time & MPH with having so much against you.

Your second problem is that with headers(not needed) & test pipes, exhaust plus no tune = your car running very lean. Not only performance suffer but it is not good for the well being of the engine.

When you make so many changes, a tune is a MUST!!! You need the timing, fuel, everything adjusted/matched up to the NEW/DIFFERENT working PARTS.

Also these mods are for high rpm H.P. So that's another reason for gears.
Not only it takes you a long time to get to top/high H.P. but after every shift the rpm drops so much that again you are far from your high H.P. It's almost a miracle that you did this well.

Just get smaller/lighter wheels for the rear, plus a set of M/T or Nitto street/drag radials. You can drive with those to the track, then drive back home.

So get 4:08 gears, 17 or 18 inch wheels apx. 275/40/17or18 tires. Plus a good shop to get an Osiris uprev tune.

Then go to the track on a cool day, heat up the tires a bit, drive the same way but after the tune you'll be shifting a bit higher(rpm).

I will clean your car for a year if you don't break 12.8 @109+ mph. :icon17:

Umm I have cai, LTH, basically a straight pipe CBE and still running rich as when I was almost stock. There's no way he's running lean if I'm running rich. My motors well being is extremely safe at about 23-24 degrees of timing and 11.9-12.4 AFR. This was all logged and dyno'd.

I also don't 100% agree with lighter wheels/tires/flywheel/pullies etc on a drag car. When shifting the rpms will actually drop faster than if the car had heavier components that keep the inertia up and spinning. The OEM wheels are light enough.

I tried one final time at the strip before they close for winter. But I had an unexpected traction issue caused by leaves falling all over the staging lanes all day. So I only managed to get a new slow time for my car of 14.8@107 against a Civic on slicks. I struggled for traction all day, and on my final run I didn't bother spinning the leaves off my tires before the launch, and managed a spintastic 2.8 60 ft.
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...c/148at107.jpg

this video might help you
 

Go to dragtimes.com, press browse, then 350z. You'll see my name at the bottom of page one.

Hit my car section & you will see my first time at the drag strip with just test pipes, TUNE, 3:90 gears & M/T street/drag radials & 275/40/17" rear tires. Left my front tires on. Video taken by the son of the other car, a Mits. that did 11.9 that day.
By getting some traction, I did 1.8's in the 60' and because of that (1.8 60') I did my first 12.9's. At a time when I didn't know there was a 350z forum or their top 25 car list.

After someone told me about the 350z.com forum, I went & posted that I went to a track (Raceway Park N.J :) & ran 12.9.

Typical forum response came out. Are YOU CLAMING YOU DID THE BEST 07/08 HR time!!!!!!! I was stunned. Why & what are they talking about???

Good thing that the son of the other guy made & emailed me the video. I didn't know how, so I had someone post that video on the forum as proof. Days later I was asked for & posted my time slip.

That's why with JUST better traction/time in the 60', you'll have NO PROBLEM doing 12.s at the 1/4. Take a look at that old video, it will help & encourage you..... Get GEARS, TUNE, TIRES..... I DON'T use or need/want wheel spacers.

Getting traction in a base 370z is tough. I agree that gears will be great for a 370z, but an LSD is a necessity as well. Having driven a 350z and 370z with the factory LSD and a 370z woth an open diff, its night and day. Really hard to get off the line in an open diff 370z.

Yes
 

but he's got the sport pkg. He has LSD. and with my enth. model 350z, I also had it.