Nissan 370Z Forum

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-   Track / Autocross / Drifting / Dragstrip (http://www.the370z.com/track-autocross-drifting-dragstrip/)
-   -   official 1/4 mile track times (http://www.the370z.com/track-autocross-drifting-dragstrip/36566-official-1-4-mile-track-times.html)

seanmorr370 04-27-2016 04:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SharpByCoop (Post 3469282)
Your OEM torque converter will limit howhigh your engine will rev. Did you pull a brake fuse to allow it to rev? If not you won't see the gain. I'd try to leave as hard as possible until you GET wheelspin.

Put it in drive and let the computer shift. You might be surprised. I gave up trying to out-think mine, and went quickest.

Thanks for the info. My 2012 base Z will allow me to rev until the tires break, then it cuts off after maybe 1 revolution. As long as the tires don't break, it lets me rev as high as I want it. I'm the 2nd owner, so maybe this means someone took a fuse out? I'm not sure. Anyways, I guess I'll have to pay attention to what RPM the tires break at on the strip when I'm cleaning the tires before the run, then try to get as close to that RPM as possible during my launch... does that make sense? I'm going back out there tomorrow night so I'll post slips afterwards, just not sure how great it'll look since it's already pushing 90 degrees here in central Florida. With that said, I'm a little curious if my K&N Typhoon is hurting me more than stock intakes would on the strip, considering how long I'm sitting still, waiting to be staged before the run. Florida heat + short ram intakes while waiting to be staged might be hurting a bit more than it does when I'm driving on the street.

I'll also let the auto go and see what it can do for me then, I was looking for someone who has tried it both ways to let me know what works best and you did just that, so thank you very much. I guess I just didn't trust the ECU to allow me to hit just prior to the rev limiter before shifting, but it might actually be better at it than I am - just wasn't sure how 'conservative' the ECU was on shifts even at WOT.

NST pulleys and ART pipes coming this summer, and maybe the motordyne manifold if I can bring myself to sacrifice my fantasy football dues, so looking forward to seeing some progress from this starting point.

ajcool2 04-27-2016 09:19 PM

Here is a POV video from Sunday at the track. I had it aimed to high so you cant see much. I do have a better video of me launching on the street.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ULGVf1Jl-Vg

ssmoked 04-27-2016 09:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by seanmorr370 (Post 3468084)
Just took my '12 370z to the strip at Bradenton Motorsports Park last Thursday for the first time to see what I could get out of my Z. 13.61 was the best I did out of 5 runs (I didn't keep my time slips - I will in the future to get better feedback from you guys.).

I couldn't believe how much better the grip was compared to the street. I can floor it from a dead stop on the street and my back end will be all over the place, holding the brakes to build up RPM isn't even an option. However, on the drag strip, I found that I was actually able to build up RPM at my launch by holding the brakes, with little to no wheelspin. DRASTIC difference in grip as far as I can tell. Anyways, I've got a couple questions about this:

1 - Does it actually help to hold the brakes to build up RPM for a launch, or does it just feel that way? If so, do any of you 7AT guys have any insight on what RPM to launch at?

2 - Is it best to let the 7AT shift on it's own, or is it possible to out-shift the computer by going into 'semi-auto' mode on the 1/4 mile strip?

I'm trying to see what I can change to get a better time out of my 7AT than a 13.6. I have a Mesiterschaft CBE, and K&N Typhoon intake. Stock tires right now, but I have Continental Extreme Contacts coming in later this week, which I hear are lighter than the stock tires so maybe that will help. I removed the spare tire/tools as well for my day at the strip. I was shifting myself, and tried a couple of runs launching at 0 RPM, then I tried a few launching with a little RPM built up, and didn't notice much of a difference - but perhaps I just need to launch at an even higher RPM (like 4-5k maybe?). Thanks in advance for the answers and advice.

The base 18s are too skinny. You need larger wheel/tire combo. Many are selling the sport 19s fairly cheap, slap some PSS or re11 305s with a burnout you can easily dip into the high 12s. Make sure to pull the brake fuse.
My bone stock 370 AT did 12.9 with 285-30-20 all seasons. I brake torqued 300rpm above idle

seanmorr370 04-27-2016 10:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ssmoked (Post 3469934)
The base 18s are too skinny. You need larger wheel/tire combo. Many are selling the sport 19s fairly cheap, slap some PSS or re11 305s with a burnout you can easily dip into the high 12s. Make sure to pull the brake fuse.
My bone stock 370 AT did 12.9 with 285-30-20 all seasons. I brake torqued 300rpm above idle

I'll add that to my list of parts to pick up this summer, thanks.

I didn't have any issues with grip at launch when I went to the track last week, but maybe that's because I'm not launching at high enough RPM. I'll be sure to pull the brake fuse tomorrow night when I go again, didn't know about that part until just a couple of days ago.

Any input on whether or not I should swap to OEM intakes for the track instead of my K&N SRI? I know it helps with power as long as I've got plenty of air flowing into my intake ducts but waiting to stage in 90 degree heat is probably a whole different ballgame.

aireoh 04-27-2016 11:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by seanmorr370 (Post 3469637)
Thanks for the info. My 2012 base Z will allow me to rev until the tires break, then it cuts off after maybe 1 revolution. As long as the tires don't break, it lets me rev as high as I want it. I'm the 2nd owner, so maybe this means someone took a fuse out? I'm not sure. Anyways, I guess I'll have to pay attention to what RPM the tires break at on the strip when I'm cleaning the tires before the run, then try to get as close to that RPM as possible during my launch... does that make sense? I'm going back out there tomorrow night so I'll post slips afterwards, just not sure how great it'll look since it's already pushing 90 degrees here in central Florida. With that said, I'm a little curious if my K&N Typhoon is hurting me more than stock intakes would on the strip, considering how long I'm sitting still, waiting to be staged before the run. Florida heat + short ram intakes while waiting to be staged might be hurting a bit more than it does when I'm driving on the street.

I'll also let the auto go and see what it can do for me then, I was looking for someone who has tried it both ways to let me know what works best and you did just that, so thank you very much. I guess I just didn't trust the ECU to allow me to hit just prior to the rev limiter before shifting, but it might actually be better at it than I am - just wasn't sure how 'conservative' the ECU was on shifts even at WOT.

NST pulleys and ART pipes coming this summer, and maybe the motordyne manifold if I can bring myself to sacrifice my fantasy football dues, so looking forward to seeing some progress from this starting point.

if somebody took the fuse out, your brake lights wouldn't light up. so it's probably still in.

SharpByCoop 04-28-2016 08:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hjo1078 (Post 3469333)
Thanks for the encouragement @sharpbycoop ! Yeah the bug got me good, all i wanna do is run my car now lol. I have some nt05rs on standby, i was practicing on an old old pair of nt555rs, I wasnt too impressed with them, took extremely long to warm them up and i just couldnt get traction on launch. I've got a private track rental in two weeks and will bust out my nt05rs. Hopefully i can improve that 60ft time to 1.6-1.7 or better lol. What is the best rpm for launching on a 6mt?

I went from mid to low elevens when my tuner told me to STOMP on the pedal to build boost on the third yellow light, and then let go of the brake. Watch my vid in my sig line.

Good luck!

Coop

hjo1078 04-28-2016 07:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SharpByCoop (Post 3470129)
I went from mid to low elevens when my tuner told me to STOMP on the pedal to build boost on the third yellow light, and then let go of the brake. Watch my vid in my sig line.

Good luck!

Coop


That was a perfect launch.

seanmorr370 04-28-2016 09:58 PM

Went out today with the same result. Tried it in auto and it actually seemed to be .1-.2 seconds slower than when I shift in manual. I talked to a few people out there and it sounds like my biggest roadblock to hitting low 13s or a flat 13 is probably the heat and humidity down here. One guy told me that running in 50 degree weather and running in 80 degree weather with humidity tends to be about a .4-.5 difference for him in a N/A car. I'm also thoroughly convinced that the K&N Typhoon is robbing me of power on my launch vs. the OEM intake system, despite the several people who have told me it's better. I think there's just way too much heat under my hood after sitting around waiting to stage, then staging in this Florida heat.

The other problem I seem to have is that, even after pulling the brake lamp fuse (confirmed by testing my brake lights), I can't get my Z to do a standing burnout, and I can't get it to rev any higher than 1800 with the brakes applied. I understand that a standing burnout isn't really necessary on street tires, but I'm more concerned with the inability to launch any higher than 1800. I've looked all over these forums and everyone else seems to be able to do it just fine with the fused pulled so I'm stumped.

This was my best run for the night. Going to give her a rest for the summer, figure out the fuse issue, put the stock intakes back on and sell these K&N Typhoons that are drinking hot air while I stage, maybe slap a couple of bolt-ons on her, then see what I can do this fall when it cools off down here.
http://i1363.photobucket.com/albums/...psshuqw5ud.jpg

Eighties Meta 04-28-2016 10:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by seanmorr370 (Post 3470611)
Went out today with the same result. Tried it in auto and it actually seemed to be .1-.2 seconds slower than when I shift in manual. I talked to a few people out there and it sounds like my biggest roadblock to hitting low 13s or a flat 13 is probably the heat and humidity down here. One guy told me that running in 50 degree weather and running in 80 degree weather with humidity tends to be about a .4-.5 difference for him in a N/A car. I'm also thoroughly convinced that the K&N Typhoon is robbing me of power on my launch vs. the OEM intake system, despite the several people who have told me it's better. I think there's just way too much heat under my hood after sitting around waiting to stage, then staging in this Florida heat.

The other problem I seem to have is that, even after pulling the brake lamp fuse (confirmed by testing my brake lights), I can't get my Z to do a standing burnout, and I can't get it to rev any higher than 1800 with the brakes applied. I understand that a standing burnout isn't really necessary on street tires, but I'm more concerned with the inability to launch any higher than 1800. I've looked all over these forums and everyone else seems to be able to do it just fine with the fused pulled so I'm stumped.

This was my best run for the night. Going to give her a rest for the summer, figure out the fuse issue, put the stock intakes back on and sell these K&N Typhoons that are drinking hot air while I stage, maybe slap a couple of bolt-ons on her, then see what I can do this fall when it cools off down here.

http://i1363.photobucket.com/albums/...psshuqw5ud.jpg

DA for your run was equivalent to 1527 elevation.

Corrected, not precise but 13.35 at 105.4 mph.

79 dgrees at 66%humidity

I looked it all up using dragtimes android app, you can use dragtimes.com as well.

Still, 13.3, nothing to be ashamed off, faster than alot of cars

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk

jchammond 05-04-2016 07:19 PM

Good Job; yes the heat definitely affects everything....not sure if your ~Z~ is a sport or base.
My base had an open diff & a standing burnout would not evenly heat tires;;;clicking of the spider gears after letting off occurred.
Installed Quaife & haven't been to track yet/ but draws 2 even Black lines.
Made a total of 6 passes stock/ best was 13.1@just under 105 & put in modified class because of K&N drop-in's...lol


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jchammond 05-04-2016 07:20 PM

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...ed39dc76e4.jpg


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seanmorr370 05-05-2016 11:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jchammond (Post 3474274)
Good Job; yes the heat definitely affects everything....not sure if your ~Z~ is a sport or base.
My base had an open diff & a standing burnout would not evenly heat tires;;;clicking of the spider gears after letting off occurred.
Installed Quaife & haven't been to track yet/ but draws 2 even Black lines.
Made a total of 6 passes stock/ best was 13.1@just under 105 & put in modified class because of K&N drop-in's...lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What kind of weather we're you running in? Mine is a base model, so I think it's an open diff. I'm not necessarily trying to burn out per se, I would just like to be able to launch higher than the 1800 rpm the ecu limits me to with my brakes applied. Pulling the stop lamp fuse didn't change anything. I think I'm probably just a little jelly of folks running 12.8-13.1 with a stock setup and my best has been a 13.6, but I guess I can blame it on this Florida weather. I'd still like to be able to launch higher since I get no wheel spin on the track with an 1800 launch.

jchammond 05-06-2016 07:19 PM

Weather started good that day,but took them a couple hours to get track right,,,around 60* air temp....Ran on Goodyear all season 275/40/18's with a good burnout....could not avoid water trap,,,also they use VHT or something on track/Sticky.
Logged a best 1.95 60' without holding rpm's up....only around 8-900 & flashed it hard.
Noise after slightly powerbraking the burnouts made the clicking noise after I let off gas: sounded bad ;;; but I knew what the noise was.
Going back after I get a tune.

jchammond 05-06-2016 07:52 PM

Bout forgot; ck your rear alignment/ eccentric bolts will allow you to dial your camber a bit more positive; allowing the tires to be more upright,,,,but will also increase rear toe (gotta have some rear toe)
Max out your camber eccentric bolts (pushing bottom of tires out) & then adjust your toe eccentric bolts to put back in spec.
I got rear camber arms now, with a more upright setup....putting new tires on tomorrow/ got the camber pulled + as much as the toe bolts will allow/// probably still around -1.0* (+ or - a tad)http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...d111feea5a.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...218d7ab9ed.jpg
uneven front yard,pics are a little off.

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ajcool2 06-08-2016 11:49 PM

Whenever I post here I feel like I'm late to the party lol. Anyway I took advantage of the cool air today and got a better time. Still haven't hit the dyno with my mods.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y18...pswjq2p9gh.jpg


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