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G37 Track Set Up. Oversteer Help.

Originally Posted by fryzia23 For starters your springs are too soft with race pads. Too much weight transfer under braking causing nose dive and rear to walk. Adding rear wing

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Old 01-05-2022, 05:16 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by fryzia23 View Post
For starters your springs are too soft with race pads. Too much weight transfer under braking causing nose dive and rear to walk. Adding rear wing would help keeping rear more stable as well.
These Coilovers are designed for street comfort so that does make a lot of sense. Problem is even when I brake earlier and the car is more settled before turn in the car still oversteers.

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Originally Posted by OptionZero View Post
Throw those arms away
Call SPL
Buy all their arms

Sell the tanabe
Get some fortunes with a higher rates

Crank up the camber all around

My guess is the softness suspension is causing a lot of weight transfer mid term, overcoming available grip already compromised by the weak alignment

But I’ll let the track rats chime in
Yeah I know the SPL's are the be all end all but they're just extremely overkill for my use case. The car is a daily that I want to use to get better as a driver on the track with. I've spoken with a few guys that race in a Nissan series in Socal that use these arms(modded) with good results. I'm not building a race car so I don't think mind giving up caster adjustment and spherical bearings/joints for cost/comfort. Basically trying to build a well balanced car.

With that said I'm not adverse to stepping up the spring rates a little to get off the bump stops if that is what's going on in the rear here.
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Old 01-05-2022, 05:25 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by SonicVQ View Post
We have the exact same G37 Sport sedan (even same color!), but mine is a year older.

I have done a few HPDEs in my stock G37 and it is rock solid. It never did anything that surprised me and every corner was entered and exited knowing what to expect and it was very easy to steer with the throttle, when I wanted to. Miles of smiles

With the suspension mods you have done, you have added a lot of variables.
• Changed the front scrub radius by 35mm
• Changed the front track by 35mm and the rear by 45 mm. Since the track has been widened, there is more leverage on the suspension, so the effective wheel rate is softer/lower.
• Different spring rates and compression/rebound damping.
• Possibly different spring preload.



Items I would look into:
• Suspension travel. Is the rear hitting the bump stops when on the track? If it does, the wheel rate goes way up, and you loose traction.
• With a 275 rear tire, maybe -1.5 degrees is too much negative camber and not all of the tread is on contact with the road. As I recall, the G37 has a good rear camber curve and doesn't require much negative camber.

Bottom line:
If your car oversteers more than you want, you need to decrease the rear roll stiffness or increase the front roll stiffness.


Also, this may be of interest to you:
http://infinitig37.com/G37-BC-Coilover-Review.html
Quote:
Originally Posted by SonicVQ View Post
First video at 1:52 that is some instant snap oversteer in mid-corner!
Makes me think if the rear ran out of suspension travel.

Put some tie wraps on the shock shaft to check the maximum shock travel.
Thanks for the insight! I will say that when I was on stock sport springs and shocks with square 245/45's and the Eibach front bar the car didn't feel as lively as it does now. I had much less experience then though and couldn't really "feel" what the car was doing + my pace was much slower.

I'll try and see if I'm hitting the bump stops in the rear as you suggested when I get some time or during my next track day.

The car snap oversteers at T10 at Laguna a lot lol.

I've attached images of the rear suspension to see if it helps any. The rear springs are progressive from the looks of it and rear shock body is shorter with what appears to be more travel. I also keep the rear at max ride height allowed which equated to around G2F 26.75". I'd like to go higher but that is max adjustment available.
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Old 01-05-2022, 06:09 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 2.2Lude View Post
These Coilovers are designed for street comfort so that does make a lot of sense. Problem is even when I brake earlier and the car is more settled before turn in the car still oversteers.



Yeah I know the SPL's are the be all end all but they're just extremely overkill for my use case. The car is a daily that I want to use to get better as a driver on the track with. I've spoken with a few guys that race in a Nissan series in Socal that use these arms(modded) with good results. I'm not building a race car so I don't think mind giving up caster adjustment and spherical bearings/joints for cost/comfort. Basically trying to build a well balanced car.

With that said I'm not adverse to stepping up the spring rates a little to get off the bump stops if that is what's going on in the rear here.
I'm sorry that's ********. You can't post in the track section asking for advice about suspension and then NOT get SPL stuff because you're worried about cost comfort. The only reason not to use the best arms available is if you're in a racing series that specifically prohibits it

YOU CAN TOTALLY DAILY A CAR WITH SPL ARMS - i dont know where the stupid assumption that adding spherical arms will suddenly make your car unlivable come from

spring rate/damping and tires have a far bigger effect on how your car will feel


your sensibilities are way too soft. if you want a car that actually is trackworthy, get over your ******** and do it right
without proper alignment capability, you're wasting your ******* time

why bother coming here asking for help if you're gonna turn it all down because you wanna half *** this ****? Why are you wasting money on track time at all if you aren't even going to do something as simple a real coilovers and alignment?

this is sad
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Old 01-05-2022, 07:18 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by OptionZero View Post
I'm sorry that's ********. You can't post in the track section asking for advice about suspension and then NOT get SPL stuff because you're worried about cost comfort. The only reason not to use the best arms available is if you're in a racing series that specifically prohibits it

YOU CAN TOTALLY DAILY A CAR WITH SPL ARMS - i dont know where the stupid assumption that adding spherical arms will suddenly make your car unlivable come from

spring rate/damping and tires have a far bigger effect on how your car will feel


your sensibilities are way too soft. if you want a car that actually is trackworthy, get over your ******** and do it right
without proper alignment capability, you're wasting your ******* time

why bother coming here asking for help if you're gonna turn it all down because you wanna half *** this ****? Why are you wasting money on track time at all if you aren't even going to do something as simple a real coilovers and alignment?

this is sad
Not sure why you are soo worked up.
Read my replies I'm clearly not "asking for advice and turning it all down". Slapping everything SPL on to my car isn't going to magically solve my issues.
Of'course there is a cost to benefit factor everyone has to consider. I mean I guess if $$ isn't an issue then yeah by all means go nuts with some JRZ's or other high end suspension system.

Aside from the FUCA's I can achieve my desired alignment spec's with the cars factory equipment.

Nearly any set of FUCA's will get me to my desired -2.5 degree's of camber up front. I understand the drawbacks to non-SPL or Voodoo arms and those compromises are ones I'm willing to live with for a car that see's daily duties and 10ish track days a year. I'm not competing or building a race car, just something that is comfortable for me on the street with enough track-ability to help me improve as a driver.

In the rear my ride height doesn't necessitate any additional arms or SPC toe bolts to get to the spec's I want. Yes eccentric bolts aren't the most reliable and can slip, I'm aware of that. In the future if I find my alignment changing I'll address it. For now I've not had any issues.

It is your opinion but I'm not wasting my time/money on seat time just because I'm not willing to go SPL everything and switch coilovers. I'm very open to switching coilovers, upping my current rates, or going to back to the stock set up in order to identify and solve my problem.

In any case if you think I'm wasting my time and yours please see yourself out of this thread.
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