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Engine Kill Switch

Originally Posted by SeeThruHead http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lMpTT-f72g0 I think yours works basically the same way as this thing. The device should cut power to the ecu before isolating the battery. Excellent video.

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Old 01-20-2021, 01:28 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by SeeThruHead View Post
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lMpTT-f72g0

I think yours works basically the same way as this thing.

The device should cut power to the ecu before isolating the battery.
Excellent video. Helps a lot. Thank you!
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Old 01-21-2021, 12:45 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Excellent video. Helps a lot. Thank you!
https://youtu.be/12jMvNNlGpM

Custom maps, sure things have advanced since the making of this video. I would recommend coughing up the money for a stand alone. If you’re strictly racing the car an emtron kv16 with a pdm would highly benefit in what you’re trying to do. You could add sensors to your suspension, professional awesome has inexpensive tire temp sensors and if you a digital dash you could log you laps and go over the data to see where you can pick up time.
Just an idea instead of adding a bunch of other stand-alone devices to the car, just more things to monitor, more things to go wrong, and at the end of the day you spent just as much money as a stand-alone and pdm, plus there downtime figuring out how to get all this to work with the factory ecu.
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Old 01-21-2021, 08:58 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Elmo370z View Post
https://youtu.be/12jMvNNlGpM

Custom maps, sure things have advanced since the making of this video. I would recommend coughing up the money for a stand alone. If you’re strictly racing the car an emtron kv16 with a pdm would highly benefit in what you’re trying to do. You could add sensors to your suspension, professional awesome has inexpensive tire temp sensors and if you a digital dash you could log you laps and go over the data to see where you can pick up time.
Just an idea instead of adding a bunch of other stand-alone devices to the car, just more things to monitor, more things to go wrong, and at the end of the day you spent just as much money as a stand-alone and pdm, plus there downtime figuring out how to get all this to work with the factory ecu.
Guy just wants a battery isolator lol. Recommending he swap his ECU and use a PDM (that's like minimum $5k? and since there are no plug and play harness a lot of time wiring) Seems excessive Also pretty sure aftermarket PDM need to be connected to the battery via an isolator anyway? At least that's what the MOTEC PDM30 manual says
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Old 01-21-2021, 10:04 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by SeeThruHead View Post
Guy just wants a battery isolator lol. Recommending he swap his ECU and use a PDM (that's like minimum $5k? and since there are no plug and play harness a lot of time wiring) Seems excessive Also pretty sure aftermarket PDM need to be connected to the battery via an isolator anyway? At least that's what the MOTEC PDM30 manual says
It is a race car, he strictly is building to race and be competitive. You select a pdm based on your electrical need and/or things you want to monitor. Data is what can make you fast on the track. It’s a valuable tool that can gain that extra 2-3 tenths. Simplifying the electrical system, takes weight out the car, dont have to worry about fuses and relays anymore, and the processor of the stand-alone is so much faster. Plus whatever you want to do and monitor can be done, your only limitations is your imagination. Excessive, I don’t quite understand where you’re coming from? To someone who who has no or little background in racing it might seem expensive, but that same person will spend 4K on wheels and tires, 6-10k on forced inductions, and 3k on a wrap job, but complain spending 6-8k on great coils, 3k on a diff, and/or 4K on seat time, tires, etc... . Would you also say him spending $3,100 on the mk60 abs system to prevent ice is a tad bit excessive and the amount of time he is going to have to spend to work out the kinks?
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