Before and after big brake addition. Stop Tech Trophy R’s. Can’t wait to get them on the track in a few weeks.:eekdance::eekdance:

lol I totally forgot about the monthly auto transfer I setup into the special savings account I opened. I just checked the balance and it's over $3000 :rofl2:

I am glad I found this thread and look forward to watching your progress! I am actually going through a similar process of building the car to be more bullet proof on the track.

One question I did have was regarding the oil pump and oil pump gears. I plan on purchasing the Boundary Engineering pump from Z1 with the billet pump cover. There are options to include shims to increase the oil pressure anywhere from +10psi to +30psi. Is this something you did as well? Or did you not find it necessary? I understand that some of the higher HP or forced induction applications my need to run higher oil pressure. Is there a need to run higher pressures for track applications with basic bolt ons? Are there any downsides to running the higher oil pressures if it is overkill for the application?

Thanks :tiphat:

I just purchased the SuckerPunch oil pump gears. I was not aware of any shims to adjust oil pressure. That being said, as an NA car, I don't see the need. The car runs fine with the stock oil pressure, so I see no reason to change it. Someone would have to really sell me on that idea with proven data before I would even consider it :twocents:

You need to read this.

http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...ure-gauge.html

The oem pump will product over a 100 psi.

This is pretty much all of the gasket that was left from the upper oil gallery :ugh:

Wow! Did you show any warning signs that the gallery gaskets were going out? How many miles on the car currently?

105K miles currently as stated in the OP. No warning signs - car has always driven great. Although no oil pressure gauge to monitor either. I have one that will be going on the car.

Well, I guess I will be putting a pressure gauge in. I've been reading through the threads online, the tap itself looks like a piece of cake to install, but deciding on a gauge and wiring it thru the interior... lots of swearing going to happen. I wonder if I even have a gallery gasket left lmao... (/s)

Hmmm making me think whether I should re-prioritize next mods on the track car... My car is 2014 @ 40k miles. Did Nissan ever address this issue later on or do you think this plagues all model years? :eek:

I believe the gasket material was changed on 2013 and newer.

It's still probably worth at least getting the pressure gauge if you're concerned about it.

Jar, what kind of gauge did you get? I'm window shopping and im tempted to go semi-flex:

https://www.z1motorsports.com/greddy...e-p-11001.html

i looked at the standard Greddy/Trust one, and it only goes to 600kpa =(. I'm starting to think my wild idea of trying to throw a Haltech ic-7 dash in isn't so wild...

What ever you get. It has to read up to 150 psi. Cold idie and high rpm's. It will show over 100 psi.

Yeah, kinda why i'm leaning towards digital or just say F it and put a full dash in. OBD what i can and use sensors for the rest. Ill figure out turn signals and fuel gauges as I go lol

I got the Revel one from ZSpeed. It is digital.

https://zspeed.com/product/revel-vls...ressure-gauge/

for the short term, that is a good price. I found out Haltech has pressure sensors, i just need to know if they can be connected directly to their dash unit without using their ECU. if that's possible i may do that since my next oil change is likely at the end of the year (which is when i'd likely do the job)

Z is coming together nicely. Here's some photos of the work done so far. Will try to fire it up later this afternoon :tup:

I decided its probably time to start monitoring my oil pressures as well.
I went with this gauge. I wanted something that would somewhat match the factory gauges. you can change the back light to a red'ish color.

https://www.vividracing.com/-p-15277...RoCXV8QAvD_BwE

In pic 2, he is going to need to shave the frame some so it won't hit your oil pan where the undertray bolts to the subframe.

:iagree:
The one bolt hole. I cut that tab off for clearance.

I did the same. Both of mine are gone since the TT install with the Greedy oil pan.

Kevin mentioned that the solid motor mounts will minimize the engine movement. But we went ahead and cut off the tab anyway just to be safe :tup:

Here is the tab cut off

I can confirm, solid motor mounts = no engine movement haha.

I still have some poly mounts i want to put in mine lol.

Well most of you probably already saw this in the other threads, but I had an incident with some debris on the highway on Friday (day after I picked up the car) :shakes head:



Thankfully it was one of my extra plastic undershrouds that got ripped off. I have a ZSpeed one I will put on. Picked up some new fender liners from the dealer on Sat. Will have to drag the floor jack and some jack stands to my parents' house (where I managed to limp the Z after the incident) so that I can install the new fender liners and undershroud and drive it home.

Also, I found the ambient temperature sensor in my house not where it was supposed to be. Thank goodness because it's the last thing I need to get the AC working in the Z again :tup:

Hydraulics went out on the Z - I'm guessing it was the Z1 slave cylinder. Barely able to get it into gear, so I drove to the shop in 2nd (thankfully just through the neighborhood and not far).

Dropped it off with a ZSpeed Stage 3 Super Street clutch package with lightweight flywheel and CMAK setup to get installed. Test pipes and solid transmission mount are going on at the same time. Hoping he'll get to it next week.

The CMAK is good. If that slave cylinder goes out, it's a $40 part and you dont need to take out the transmission.

Also, this is probably why Kevin was like "idk i won't be able to get to your car until next week" lmao

If it is indeed the Z1 cylinder, that would be the 4th one that has failed - I was an early adopter back in 2013 and have 50K miles on the kit. Every single cylinder has been slightly different. After the first replacement on the house less than a year after install Z1 made me pay for them - $59 apiece plus shipping, which usually needed to be rushed and cost as much as the damn part.

He's already lined up this week with work which is really the only hold up. We've talked at length about the work so he knows what needs to be done. I just showed up with it at the shop randomly this week. I'm in no rush. The car has been sitting so long I can't justify trying to rush anything lol.

One of the issues he's run into is the trans bell housing cover has been revised several times over the years and you can no longer get oldest version, which is what I have. The Z1 kit has a different cover and people don't typically keep the old cover. He's done a couple of conversions from the Z1 kit to the CMAK and had to make it work with the Z1 cover, but it is ideal to have the original cover. I'm a hoarder so that was never in question that we would use my original cover :icon17:

Yeah, im thinking about throwing my hood louvers in and just leaving my car over there as well. I'm sure it's my fuel damper that's gone bad, and i was gonna have him swap those solid mounts for the urethane ones. tired of them rattling sh-t loose.

Minor updates...

Fixed a heater hose coupler that was leaking/broken a couple months ago. Got a $30 billet coupler with bleeder valve from CZP to replace the stock plastic coupler.

Then a couple of weeks ago, I was waiting at a stop light. Big Tundra in front of me starts backing up unnecessarily aggressively. I laid on the horn with my left hand and then missed the gate trying to shift into reverse with my right hand. He slowed down but still got me good. Going to use the opportunity to have the body shop install a vented hood that's been sitting in my garage for several years now :tup:

Currently there are over 100K miles on the original stock plugs and injectors. I am wondering if there is a strong argument for either leaving them in or replacing them. New plugs are cheap; new injectors not so much. Once I'm in there I will do both at the same time.

Is it worth the preventative maintenance to do them now or should I just leave well enough alone?

Replace the plugs and leave the injectors alone.

I have cleaned injectors with more miles lol. I can sell them for a low price.

I think I have the injectors out of my car with ~20k miles on them. If I have them laying around, I'll send them out to you.

Z was back in the body shop again after I put it up on a curb in Feb. Then a power steering leak fried the alternator. Had Austin Z Clinic install my CJM road race pump kit and billet top hat while it was in the shop. Now it's time for some :driving:

nice!

Any updates Jar? I somehow read this entire thread last night as I'm about to go down the same street --> track-built Z rabbit hole.

He's been off grid for a while. Don't know why.

Been busy with life and stuff and things. And I don't spend much time in front of a computer anymore these days. Been a year since I've been on the forum in earnest.

The Z is running strong; it's at about 115K miles now. I've been redlining the shìt out of it lately :D Stock suspension is still kicking but sounds a little cranky at times. Have all the SPL and FA parts waiting the living room still. Been in touch with the folks at Spokes (local autox league). Dunno if I'll make it out this year but I'm hoping by next year I'll have the suspension and Wavetrac differential ready for the season.

Hope everyone is doing well :hello:

One thing to add: I replaced the PS sensor where the leak was occurring and it is still seeping. At some point I will pull it off and see if some teflon tape on the threads helps. For now, I'm just wiping down the sensor fitting and the electrical connector whenever I get gas or after any spirited driving.