You are supposed to check the clearance before the install. They are machined tight. They are beneficial to us due to the fact that our oil pumps run straight off the crank. Any vibration or harmonics you can remove from the oil pump gears is a positive.

That's the issue. He checked the clearance. It was tight. Then installation was a PITA.

Think I had about 0.0005" clearance. Warmed mine up in the oven at 150F for 30 minutes. Torquing it was a PITA!

I didn't have any issues with the install of my first ATI damper.

I was recovering from arm surgery at that time too.

OK so the SuckerPunch oil pump gears are almost complete - hopefully by the end of the month. Trying to get everything lined up for the work I'm gonna have Kevin do inside the front timing cover.

Thinking it would be worth replacing the water pump while in there. Anyone else agree? Any other parts I should consider?

Replace all belts and the water pump. You car has been sitting for awhile!

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I was looking at fuel injectors... wtf is this $150 apiece crap?

Found a couple of used sets for ~$100. Figured I'd get them cleaned and flow tested first at a cost of about $18 each.
Or does it make more sense to just send mine in for cleaning and testing?

I would just send yours and go form there. No need of getting new or different if yours are fine.

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I didn't empty the fuel tank and it's been sitting for over a year. So I'm fully expecting them to be clogged. Trying to decide whether to mess with them before the engine work or after.

Do it now!!! That way you are good to go when the engine is done.

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I’d call Phunk and see if he has a stock set sitting around. Maybe he’d send them off to get flow matched/cleaned up and when you receive them they are good to go.

Anyone have any thoughts on the dirt pattern in these pics? Do the spots that look cleaner indicate anything concerning? Seems like there is some oil residue. The darker spot on the RH side is where I rubbed my finger.

Looks like where the throttle bodies come over the valve cover. I wouldn't be worried about it. You just got a couple of clean spots.

I did the TB coolant delete a number of years back. I suppose it could be from the little bit of coolant that spilled out of the lines when I disconnected them. The driver side leaked quite a bit and then I used a towel to help capture spillage on the passenger side.

:iagree:
Yeah, he's overthinking things.

That's what I was hoping for. Thanks fellas. I showed pics to another buddy as well as Kevin. They said the exact same thing.

I didn't know you had this thread. It looks like a fun project.

:tiphat:

All I can say is it is going slowly :icon17:
Thank goodness I'm the patient type :excited:

Look up the definition of procrastinator in the dictionary. And you will see Jar's picture. :rofl2:

Well shoot, I'd offer to sell you my invidia test pipes i just took off the car, but they arent the same diameter as the FI pipes.

disclaimer: i did not read all 10 pages of the thread yet, but I saw the parts list at the beginning.

There's not much in the pages other than some questions and discussions on my parts list. At this point I've pretty much got all my parts with a couple of small exceptions. FI test pipes are sitting in the garage since last summer. Thanks for the thought tho :tiphat:

Looking for a power steering cooler. I guess the 13 row is the largest option from Setrab?

CZP offers it in a kit. Not interested in the Z1 kit unless I find one used.

Daily Driver No Longer
 

The G comes with one stock. If you don’t need a huge one, you might be able to make it out cheap by picking up one somebody removed.

Make your own with a Setrab core. Look at what Z1 offers and buy those parts. Easy peasy.

I looked it up, Z1's kit price is mas o menos the cost of parts.

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I know what's out there and what it cost to build my own vs buying a kit. My question was simply: is the 13 row Setrab Core 6 Series the largest PS cooler option available?

Fluid is fluid. I imagine you could use any size of cooler, the limiting factor is how much can the PS pump handle?

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There's not really a pump upgrade option as far as I know, so I'm guessing the kits on the market are a good indication of what the stock pump can handle. Seems I have my answer.

I have the Z1 cooler. Never had a problem with it.

I'm thinking about my ARC coolant reservoir with the built-in catch cans. I would prefer to use the hoses it came with (previous owner included nice, braided hoses), but they are too large for the proper routing, which I understand to be via the upper plenum front PCV ports and the PCV check valve on the rocker cover. Instead the hoses are designed to fit on the larger port on the rocker cover (rear of the PCV valve) and the intake piping.

If I run the catch can hoses the way ARC designed them, could I also do the Open Breather Conversion PCV Delete from EPS that vents the crankcase to the atmosphere?

It would be a combination of these:

I don’t recommend venting the crankcase to atmosphere. I still believe that part of the tuning/idling hiccup in the BP turbo kit is due to not having those hose plumbed back in preturbo. The TT kits route that back to the intake piping leading to the turbo. I think the ECU is expecting a certain amount of unmetered air at the TBs and when it doesn’t get it, it causes small issues. Nobody has been able to confirm this because there is no way to plumb the hose preturbo on the BP kit.

But the ARC setup would have some unmetered air going back into the intake piping after the MAFs before the TBs. Does not that not accomplish what you are concerned about?

I have a newbie question, so don’t make fun of me. What does all that do for you? Is it to help protect the system? Heat management? Performance? I have a track only Z that I beat on like it owes me money. Feel like I may need something like this and/or power steering cooler, but I don’t know why exactly. Thanks

I have zero issues with the catch can. I just don’t recommend deleting the PCV and routing back between the MAF and TB. If the ARC setup keeps that, then it shouldn’t be a problem.

Minor thread detail. I will add a caveat. I have zero proof venting the crank case causes any issues. It’s just my theory and one that several of the BP guys and I tried finding a way to eliminate several years back. We kind of quit when we couldn’t find a solution. Best I can tell it has zero impact under load. It’s more a idle/drivability issue.

Daily Driver No Longer
 

I don’t know what you power steering fluid looks like, but mine boils at idle. Cooling that off will improve fluid performance and life.

That being said I’m still running the factory PS cooler that comes on the G and I haven’t noticed any performance drop at all. Of course I don’t track mine.

You're a newb? :eek: :gtfo2: Loser! :p :rofl2:


The catch cans will help in removing blow by oil during the combustion process that can get recycled back into the intake manifold. When this blow by oil gets back into the combustion process, it lowers the octane rating of the fuel, so the catch cans are really just a way to keep the internals a little cleaner and running more efficient.

Power steering fluid boils pretty easy. I switched over to Redline ATF D6 but it will still boil after long stints of hard driving. The cooler is just added insurance. I would keep an eye on yours. If you find it boiling after a few laps, then consider making changes (start with fluid then maybe a new cooler if needed).

On the PS fluid. Do not fill the reservoir to the full line. Keep the fluid at the add line or a little below. When the fluid gets hot. It has to expand. The expanded fluid is forced out of the cap. That's what youe are seeing. You're not really boiling the fluid. It has to get over 600F. The ideal temp is between 175F to 200F. Once over 220F, it starts to break down.

I believe there's a cold fill line. I was able to keep it in check when i did my first flush. (edit): i'm also using the redline ATF and the stock cooler and haven't had any issues. However, I think my driving style doesn't put a ton of stress on the pump; I know some others have had issues with overheating. It's safe to just upgrade the cooler anyway.

On the PCV system discussion, I ran my catch cans and now im running a can-atmosphere setup (basically the cans are venting to atmosphere, but the system is "close-looped". other than the smell, I don't have any issues so far. I might go back to the closed setup simply because the smell gets annoying, but for functionality, it's good.

Also, i really hate that gold intake wrap job they did. it's like they didn't even try. here's mine (not the current catch can setup but most recent photo i have):