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Nissan 370Z Forum (http://www.the370z.com/)
-   Track / Autocross / Drifting / Dragstrip (http://www.the370z.com/track-autocross-drifting-dragstrip/)
-   -   Daily Driver No Longer (http://www.the370z.com/track-autocross-drifting-dragstrip/130255-daily-driver-no-longer.html)

Rusty 02-07-2020 04:07 PM
I'm using the Redline steering fluid, plus the Z1 steering cooler, and keep my level at the add mark. Never had any fluid come out of the cap so far.

abm89 02-07-2020 06:59 PM
I've seen their own power steering-specific fluid before but wasn't sure if it was ok to use. That's good info.

jwick 02-07-2020 07:13 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 3907080)
I'm using the Redline steering fluid, plus the Z1 steering cooler, and keep my level at the add mark. Never had any fluid come out of the cap so far.

Mine doesn’t spill out but it definitely boils.

Rusty 02-07-2020 07:19 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by jwick (Post 3907120)
Mine doesn’t spill out but it definitely boils.
Next time you see it. Take a temp gun to it.

jwick 02-07-2020 07:24 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 3907122)
Next time you see it. Take a temp gun to it.

Gotta get me one of those

Rusty 02-07-2020 07:50 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by jwick (Post 3907123)
Gotta get me one of those
I have a $$$ Fluke. You can get them for like $15.00 on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=temp+gun&...l_12ls5k5wo8_e

Wigjiggy 02-07-2020 07:57 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by JARblue (Post 3907029)
You're a newb? :eek: :gtfo2: Loser! :p :rofl2:


The catch cans will help in removing blow by oil during the combustion process that can get recycled back into the intake manifold. When this blow by oil gets back into the combustion process, it lowers the octane rating of the fuel, so the catch cans are really just a way to keep the internals a little cleaner and running more efficient.

Power steering fluid boils pretty easy. I switched over to Redline ATF D6 but it will still boil after long stints of hard driving. The cooler is just added insurance. I would keep an eye on yours. If you find it boiling after a few laps, then consider making changes (start with fluid then maybe a new cooler if needed).
Ahh. So it’s good hygiene for the car. Makes sense. I’ll look at upgrading. Need the engine to last me a while. Thanks for the help!!

JARblue 02-08-2020 12:37 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 3907074)
On the PS fluid. Do not fill the reservoir to the full line. Keep the fluid at the add line or a little below. When the fluid gets hot. It has to expand. The expanded fluid is forced out of the cap. That's what youe are seeing. You're not really boiling the fluid. It has to get over 600F. The ideal temp is between 175F to 200F. Once over 220F, it starts to break down.
Fair enough. I can't say I've seen a rolling boil in the reservoir. So you're probably right. Definitely hitting breakdown temps though. Is that 220F temp threshold just for stock fluid or even the Redline stuff?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 3907080)
I'm using the Redline steering fluid, plus the Z1 steering cooler, and keep my level at the add mark. Never had any fluid come out of the cap so far.
Mine spits with the Redline fluid. But it's stock PS cooler.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 3907122)
Next time you see it. Take a temp gun to it.
I've seen as high as 260F :twocents: Didn't realize at the time that was as excessive as it seems to be now :eekdance:

alanyluan 02-11-2020 12:22 PM
This is a great thread. I'll be going down a similar route with my track only Z but the mod list you've thrown together is a great starting point! Not gonna lie though, overwhelmed by the amount of reliability mods you've got there... Will need to add some of those parts to my list.

Thanks!

Rusty 02-11-2020 01:13 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by alanyluan (Post 3907847)
This is a great thread. I'll be going down a similar route with my track only Z but the mod list you've thrown together is a great starting point! Not gonna lie though, overwhelmed by the amount of reliability mods you've got there... Will need to add some of those parts to my list.

Thanks!
If you want to see everything installed. Read my thread. Link in my signature.

JARblue 02-12-2020 02:27 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 3907854)
If you want to see every anything installed. Read my thread. Link in my signature.
FTFY :rofl2:

JARblue 02-12-2020 10:47 AM
Ever since I had my steering rack replaced and the dealer let my PS fluid reservoir go dry, I've had occasional whining from the PS pump. I wasn't planning on doing anything cause I figured worst case scenario is the pump goes out and I get a good arm workout until I replace it.

But I just bought a used pump with 17K miles on it for $100. Figured the price was right.

Spooler 02-12-2020 11:06 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by JARblue (Post 3908050)
Ever since I had my steering rack replaced and the dealer let my PS fluid reservoir go dry, I've had occasional whining from the PS pump. I wasn't planning on doing anything cause I figured worst case scenario is the pump goes out and I get a good arm workout until I replace it.

But I just bought a used pump with 17K miles on it for $100. Figured the price was right.
LOL, go ahead a replace it now before the pump shells out. If you don't, you will be replacing the pump and the rack and pinion.

JARblue 02-12-2020 11:14 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spooler (Post 3908054)
If you don't, you will be replacing the pump and the rack and pinion.
That's what my buddy told me. And precisely why I went ahead and picked up the replacement. A new pump is over $350 online.

JARblue 02-20-2020 11:44 AM
Setting up the final purchase for engine stuff in anticipation of oil pump gear delivery. Ordering the ATI super damper (918584), PS cooler kit (CZP), timing cover gasket and seal kit, water pump (B1010-JK20A), and Gates Racing serpentine belt (K070795RPM).

Any final thoughts? Trying to decide whether to buy a new intake manifold gasket - the original one seems to be in good shape, and I don't really want to pay $30 for a new one.

abm89 02-20-2020 12:22 PM
I've replaced mine before. I think as long as the rubber seal is in decent condition and not cracking, it should be fine.

Spooler 02-20-2020 12:56 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by JARblue (Post 3909813)
Any final thoughts? Trying to decide whether to buy a new intake manifold gasket - the original one seems to be in good shape, and I don't really want to pay $30 for a new one.
Get a new one. Vaccum leaks suck.

Zezus 02-20-2020 01:25 PM
You've come this far. Why skimp on a 30 dollar gasket here?

JARblue 02-20-2020 04:18 PM
lol I hate that logic. It can't be beat :icon17:

Zezus 02-20-2020 08:45 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by JARblue (Post 3909851)
lol I hate that logic. It can't be beat :icon17:
Sorry dude. I tried to skimp on the last car I built and ended up doing everything twice. If a piece is off, replace the gasket. I hate doing things twice.

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JARblue 03-22-2020 05:29 AM
I've got the ARC coolant tank with built-in catch cans, which give different instructions for running the hoses than other catch can setups. Planning to hook up the ARC hoses as designed and possibly add another set of catch cans using the front PCV valve on the rocker panel and upper intake manifold front ports. Shouldn't be any problems with running both setups, right?

JARblue 05-08-2020 01:50 PM
The Fast Intentions oil cooler that I have uses -8 AN fittings. Worth swapping out for -10 AN fittings? On an N/A car?

abm89 05-08-2020 02:10 PM
I don't think so to be honest. I'm running a 34 row with 8AN and i can't get the car up to temperature unless it's 85F+

JARblue 05-08-2020 02:11 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by abm89 (Post 3932681)
I don't think so to be honest. I'm running a 34 row and i can't get the car up to temperature unless it's 85F+
It's going to see a lot of 85F+ weather :driving:

I'm not planning to be like Hotrodz who parks his car in the summer LOL

abm89 05-08-2020 02:13 PM
I think for anyone to know if you're benefiting from larger AN fittings, you'd have to compare the rate of flow through the core with both sets and see if it makes a huge difference. On top of that, it's dependent on how much oil your pump can push through.

JARblue 05-08-2020 03:27 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by abm89 (Post 3932683)
I think for anyone to know if you're benefiting from larger AN fittings, you'd have to compare the rate of flow through the core with bot sets and see if it makes a huge difference. On top of that, it's dependent on how much oil your pump an push through.
My SuckerPunch oil pump gears just arrived in the mail on Weds. I don't know if the flow is increased by them though.

Hotrodz 05-09-2020 10:38 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by JARblue (Post 3932682)
It's going to see a lot of 85F+ weather :driving:

I'm not planning to be like Hotrodz who parks his car in the summer LOL
Actually my car runs fine on the highway in the summer, it runs hot at the track because most of the tracks I run are short so no time to get enough air to cool and the asphalt will be 160* plus so heat is problem for all track cars. It a choice I make because I can track my car every month of the year if I want and in extreme hot temperatures tires, brakes, and fluids are tortured so more cost on consumables.

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Hotrodz 05-09-2020 10:41 AM
I don't run a sandwich plate either because it is not necessary. I just make sure I let the car warm up in the cool time of the year.

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Rusty 05-09-2020 11:08 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotrodz (Post 3932859)
I don't run a sandwich plate either because it is not necessary. I just make sure I let the car warm up in the cool time of the year.

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Well.......you live 2 blocks from Hell in the summer. So why need a thermostatic plate. Your oil is already cooking just sitting on the pavement. :rofl2:

AlWakRa 05-09-2020 06:38 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by JARblue (Post 3932682)
It's going to see a lot of 85F+ weather :driving:

I'm not planning to be like Hotrodz who parks his car in the summer LOL
I don't seems to pass 200-210F when I drive in street with FI oil cooler on summer, 85+ easily.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 3932875)
Well.......you live 2 blocks from Hell in the summer. So why need a thermostatic plate. Your oil is already cooking just sitting on the pavement. :rofl2:
I have thermostatic sandwich plate on my z and it helps, my rsx doesn't have and it just drops temps during the outlap :rofl2:, I need to keep the revs too high to keep it warm, but I think the weather during the season is the reason, lets say it is between 65-90F. Anyway, for street driving, the car needs a thermostatic one.

Rusty 05-09-2020 07:27 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlWakRa (Post 3932985)
I don't seems to pass 200-210F when I drive in street with FI oil cooler on summer, 85+ easily.




I have thermostatic sandwich plate on my z and it helps, my rsx doesn't have and it just drops temps during the outlap :rofl2:, I need to keep the revs too high to keep it warm, but I think the weather during the season is the reason, lets say it is between 65-90F. Anyway, for street driving, the car needs a thermostatic one.
Where Hotrodz is at. You can fry eggs in the shade during summer. It's over 100F.

Hotrodz 05-09-2020 09:28 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlWakRa (Post 3932985)
I don't seems to pass 200-210F when I drive in street with FI oil cooler on summer, 85+ easily.









I have thermostatic sandwich plate on my z and it helps, my rsx doesn't have and it just drops temps during the outlap :rofl2:, I need to keep the revs too high to keep it warm, but I think the weather during the season is the reason, lets say it is between 65-90F. Anyway, for street driving, the car needs a thermostatic one.
The hood vents help lower temps quickly on cool down lap. By the time I get back to the paddock my temps are pretty close to normal. I the winter she runs on the cool side but not out of the safe zone without blocking the oil cooler but that is always an option.

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abm89 05-09-2020 11:12 PM
Oh jeez. I just realized I cannot type for ****.

Anyway, I've got a stillen oil cooler kit, with a setrab 34 row core i bought recently. with my vented hood, I don't go above 180F when driving normally. maybe 190 or 200 if im stuck in traffic. I'll get more data again in the summer but it's honestly overkill for my setup, which is fine.


Apparently Oil temps are a common problem with these newer cars (especially boosted ones). My WRX will imp mode once it gets to 225F. My friend's A90 Supra will limp mode after a few laps as well.

AlWakRa 05-09-2020 11:43 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 3932995)
Where Hotrodz is at. You can fry eggs in the shade during summer. It's over 100F.
In summer over here, it reaches 120F or higher :rofl2: my point is, without thermostats the car will take a long time to reach optimal temps when the weather is cooler, Hotrodz tt is a good heater so he doesn't need thermostats :p

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotrodz (Post 3933029)
The hood vents help lower temps quickly on cool down lap. By the time I get back to the paddock my temps are pretty close to normal. I the winter she runs on the cool side but not out of the safe zone without blocking the oil cooler but that is always an option.

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Same experience with my z in track, but it can reach 250F during session even in cooler weather, on the other hand, my dc5 stays at 195F on track but if I slowed down it get quickly cooler, without even installing any vents, but I installed the biggest cooler I can get.

Hotrodz 05-10-2020 09:19 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlWakRa (Post 3933056)
In summer over here, it reaches 120F or higher :rofl2: my point is, without thermostats the car will take a long time to reach optimal temps when the weather is cooler, Hotrodz tt is a good heater so he doesn't need thermostats :p







Same experience with my z in track, but it can reach 250F during session even in cooler weather, on the other hand, my dc5 stays at 195F on track but if I slowed down it get quickly cooler, without even installing any vents, but I installed the biggest cooler I can get.
Agreed, for the most part. You really can't compare to other cars. I mean before I was tracking I drove it a couple day in Phoenix traffic and temps were 125 or so and even with the AC on it only hit 135. The engine bay on the Z just doesn't allow the motor to cool in extreme use. Me and my brother have run our Miata in back to back sessions in 90* without any heating issue but there is a ton of open space around that little four banger and we don't have an oil cooler.

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JARblue 06-04-2020 08:40 AM
Sent the Z to the shop yesterday for the work in the engine bay (mostly behind the front timing cover). Hoping to have it ready for the 4th of July meetup at Madwi's :driving:

Wigjiggy 06-06-2020 10:34 AM
3 Attachment(s)
Built my own splitter out of 6m alumalite. Sticks out 5 inches from end of Stillen bumper. I reinforced it with connections to the crash bar and frame, and built the rods out of 10 32 threaded rods. I can stand on it and I’m 225 lbs. Won’t win any beauty contests, but this car never sees the street. Tried it out at Sebring last weekend and it did great. I could feel the grip on high speed corners. Starts at 3 inches off the ground and barely clears the track on heavy cornering.

JARblue 06-07-2020 05:38 PM
Contemplating having the valve cover gaskets replaced while work is being done. What is this talk I see of the radiator being in the way? :icon14: Its not coming out for the front timing cover work. How in the hell is it in the way of the valve cover bolts?

JARblue 06-07-2020 05:40 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wigjiggy (Post 3939688)
Built my own splitter out of 6m alumalite. Sticks out 5 inches from end of Stillen bumper. I reinforced it with connections to the crash bar and frame, and built the rods out of 10 32 threaded rods. I can stand on it and I’m 225 lbs. Won’t win any beauty contests, but this car never sees the street. Tried it out at Sebring last weekend and it did great. I could feel the grip on high speed corners. Starts at 3 inches off the ground and barely clears the track on heavy cornering.
That's pretty slick. Too bad aero mods are way down the list in terms of priority. I'll get there one day :tup:

JARblue 06-09-2020 10:19 AM
Anyone have any information on the valve covers? I found some that appear to have the spark plug tube seals individually serviceable. Wondering if mine are that way. Or if they are an older version with the spark plug seals as part of the cover itself. Might have to go by the shop and do some more dismantling.

After some research and verifying on my 2011, it seems that the valve cover design with separate valve cover gaskets and spark plug tube seals came online for vehicles manufactured after 01/2011. My understanding is the previous design had integrated spark plug o-rings with the valve cover gasket. Added to the parts list.


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