Not the best showing at spring nats but we learned a lot as far where we want to take the car. Unfortunately my car was totaled out in a hail storm so that knowledge as well as my suspension and diff will need to go into a clean replacement.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...7f8bdf6c_z.jpg_BES0957 by brendan sobers, on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...5c5c16cc_z.jpg_BES0970 by brendan sobers, on Flickr

Sorry to about the car. Did it happen in Lincoln or on the home?

:(

Find the guy with the ball peen hammer. And hammer him.

What's your plans for another one?

On the way home close to the Colorado border.

I want what I had really. Solid red, 2014 or newer, base sport with low miles. I thought about a 15+ nismo, but they seem to be holding value too well.

My vote is buy the totaled car back and build an FP car out of it.

..............and get a HF dent puller and spend years pulling all the dents out. :icon14:

That's the best part of an FP car, nobody cares if it's covered in dents.

I'll sell it to you real cheap so you can try that. I'm not done with stu quite yet.

I think you made the right call on the spring rates. I was afraid that at 2.00~ htz it would be too firm but i think i can go quite a bit stiffer. What else do you have planned? Also do you have the the first gen spc uppper control arms or the new turnbuckle style ones?

I went with the turnbuckle style to get separate caster adjustment, as well. Though, I'm questioning the legality of the bushings on them. From the pictures, they looked conventional, but upon inspection, they appear to be spherical, but insulated with rubber.

The only thing I really have left, is swaybars. I'm not entirely sure what I'm going to do with them, yet. I'd like to get all my suspension adjustments dialed in, then see where I need to go from there. As it sits, I feel like I just need a softer rear bar. I may disconnect it at some point and see how it does.

if only spl would make a poly bushing version of their arms. I have the z1 arms and was wondering why I had full turn differences left to right. turns out the threaded tube that the upper ball joint threads in is not even close to welded in the same area. frustrating but it was the best option i could see as far as legality and cost.

I would think there would be a lot of interest for a mechanically sound but rough looking inexpensive track Z.

Right. I'm sure there will be at auction lol. I enjoy looking at my cars too much to go down that route but I know it would make somebody happy.

I can't speak to the SPL front arms, but the rear camber arms and the midlinks can easily be converted to be compliant with the rules. You just have to buy some poly-bushed rod ends to replace the sphericals that came with the arms. The only other thing is to get a local machine shop to make a couple spacers and a replacement center sleeve to make them fit. This is the exact setup I have on my BSP car.

I would think their fronts arms would be just as easy to convert.

Thats not a bad idea. We have a local guy who built an f mod car from scratch. I'm sure he knows his way around a lathe.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...134a2c21_z.jpg_BES7499 by brendan sobers, on Flickr

Poly Rod Ends This is what I used just maybe not the same size (can't remember anymore). All the lathe pieces I think ran me around $75.

we have another option for adjustable front links now.

I ordered these before my car got destroyed and will be installing them on the new vehicle. Interested to see how well they work.

It also appears the moonface links have come down in price if you're looking for a more premium experience.

I love my whiteline swaybar and endlinks. Car handles like it's on rails!

Finally got the new car built. I am really considering changing out the z1 front arms. I hate doing stuff twice but that's just the way it is some times. It's frustrating how inconsistent they are and it's kind of a pain to have to disassemble the front suspension to make minor changes. I am concerned with the legality of the new spc arms so I may do that as a next season change after nationals.

I'm just now discovering that the cheaper SPC control arms also have caster adjustment. It's hard to tell what kind of bushings it has from the pictures, though. Anyone know if they are standard rubber or poly, and not spherical?

https://www.spcalignment.com/index.p...tion&pid=25002 the upper control arm are pretty much an adapter for their ball joints. seems sealed metal to metal, but that may also be what we have stock.

The ball joint should not be the problem. The bushing itself is what may potentially be the problem. SPC's more expensive arms have a rubber/spherical hybrid for their bushings which I don't think is legal since metal content is increased and bushing material is decreased. I think they mainly used this because the entire arm articulates. So, without a spherical bushing, it would put a lot of stress on the bushing if you adjusted away from it's true neutral position. But, since the there is no adjustment to the arm itself on the cheaper arm, they can probably use a regular style bushing, either rubber or poly. I've looked at more pictures of them I've found on the interwebs and they appear like they're legal. I may switch to these arms.

The original design SPC FUCA's have a standard poly bushing on the chassis side and are legal. These are what I have on my BSP car.

Did you need to modify them to hold settings? I remember that being an issue with them when I first started researching these cars. Also curious about how much camber/castor you can get out of them.

I had the old SPC arm and didn't have issue of it slipping.

I think from the time I put them on in 2015 till now, I've had one arm slip once and it wasn't even that much (~0.5°).

Regarding how much camber you can get, from what I remember with the adjustment all the way inward it was around 4-4.5° which is more that I've ever needed.

That is good to know. What do you think was the cause of the slip?

Probably just not tightened enough combined with Hoosier grip. Basically, tighten them nice and tight and then tighten them even more.

Good to know. The z1 arms are working ok for now, but if I notice anything weird it's good to know there is an option.

First event with the new car is this weekend. The changes from this car to the old one are:

*18k springs up front
*the old 13k that were in front are now out back
*the car sits closer to 27" all around - old car was slightly under 27"
*corner balance is nearly perfect 50% cross weight - experience using scales and less concern over the car not being visibly even on all 4 corners when hard parked
*super sexy turn down exhaust tip

I'm most excited about the new front springs. The old set-up felt nice but the car needed more roll resistance, especially on grippy concrete. My only concern would be additional understeer mid corner but I can always throw the rear sway back on if it comes down to that.

I'm also hoping to have wheels by nationals which should be fun. Thinking about trying out the advans in 275/40r18.

You can try a G37 rear bar if the stock rear bar is too stiff for you. My last event in the car was with 1100/850 and it felt pushy still.

Just don't run a rear bar.

^^^Agreed!

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I ran with my rear bar disconnected for the first time last weekend. I didn't enjoy the understeer on corner entry, but I did love the additional traction out of the turns. I'll likely remove it completely before the next event.

link and video to my ftd.

Car drove well with the stiffer springs up front. I was happy I didn't forget what I learned in Lincoln before the first car got smashed. I took second to my buddy Kai who won spring nats in his e46 m3. The delta is getting smaller but my driving and the car will need some work before I can challenge him directly.

Understeer on slow speed entry is the biggest thing I notice without the rear bar but it just makes sense on the faster style courses we get at Nationals. It is tempting to pick up that G37 bar for local events but I don't know if I want to introduce another variable to get used to when I travel.

Like any race car. you have to tune the suspension for the track. What works for one track may not be good for another.

Also where are you getting the oversteer and have you tried lowering your rear tire temp?

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Turn in immediately after or in the transition from braking is less sharp than with a sway bar. Not something I'm particularly concerned about tuning out, as I feel the trade off is worth it while I'm getting used to the car. Lots of high speed transition grip and and good grip and rotation on throttle at corner exit.

You're not wrong, but test time is often limited. Not off the table as I develop the car and my driving. I just don't want to be one of those guys blaming the car when fundamental driving technique is lacking.

I know you are limited in time and testing. Best bet is trying to find something that work for most areas.

Okay, I think what you are experiencing is pretty normal or at least close to what I experienced as well. I found that I had to start my braking a little earlier and smoothly apply pressure when trail braking and to ease out of the braking as well. It takes a little getting use too but as you stated the gains are worth it.

I'll give it a shot. The car is very confidence inspiring and it feels like it is in a spot I can grow into. I'll still make small changes within the rule-set but I think it is at a good stopping point as far as suspension goes.

I've got wheels ordered and then my goal will be to get as much weight out of the car as I can. When that's all done we add power.:driving: