Hmm, photographic evidence!Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Car was difficult to drive with stock rear bar and 850lbs rear springs. Disconnected the rear bar and it was pushy at low speed. May try to get a G37 awd rear bar.

Anyone running BC Racing coilovers?

If you want to run those, I would contact ProParts USA for the Megans and revalve them. They are the same shocks.

How are you picking spring rates? What is your process?

I already have a set with about 15-20k miles. Standard setup, ride is nice and stiff. I'll probably just add a front swaybar and remove my rear.

Just taking advice from 350z people. I am not sure if the 350z rates are something that we can use, I think the shorter wheelbase has something to do with it.

What caster do you run? Just curious, because I haven't touched mine.

On the VLSD... I finally got my OS Giken LSD installed a month ago, and it makes sliding the rear around very controllable. On a cold day when my tires (Nexen SUR4Gs) never warmed up, I was able to get very consistent times, despite spinning the rears a lot due to temperatures, 5 runs within .5 seconds of each other on a 60 second course.

Next event was a cold wet day, and the Z was up there with most of the AWD cars, with a driver that is usually mid-pack. Partly due to running PS4S's, partly due to being able to put power down out of tight corners.

This last weekend, I did a track day and out of laziness ran PS4S's instead of my SUR4Gs and had faster times with PS4Ss and the OSG LSD compared to my previous bests with the VLSD and SUR4G's. Never had a single issue putting power down out of corners and could visibility see myself pulling away from other cars with every corner exit. It was enough that I was making up more time in the corners than I lost on the straights, compared to the supercharged V8's in my run group.

The VLSD never bothered me much until I got stickier tires and had too much inner wheel lift for it to be effective, and getting a better LSD has been such an immense improvement.

It was one of the priciest upgrades, all parts considered. (Right up there with coilovers and supporting arms.) But I've had zero regrets so far.

:tup: :driving:

The caster on the Z1 A arms isn't adjustable, I just know it's a lot more than OEM. Harder to turn the steering wheel. Ok, so I did a time attack last weekend and my VSLD is not working now. Lots of wheel spin coming out of turns. I can't afford to get a good one, so hopefully the dealer can replace the fluid or something as a band-aid. I decided to go with BC Racing coilovers for next season instead of Konis. 12K front, 9K rear Swift springs.

Once the VLSD goes. It's done for. There is nothing other then replacing it. It's a sealed unit inside the carrier with silicone fluid inside it. You can change all the gear lube you want. But that will not help it. The only thing that helps the stock VLSD to live a little longer is a diff cooler.

Here is a link to the spring rate calculator I made. It converts spring rates into hz. You just need to make sure the weights are accurate. All the values can be changed in case somebody has more reliable info, but I got all the values from a combination of forum info and my measurements.

I'm in the home stretch of getting this diff done. A couple set backs but hopefully I can finish the job before our winter racing season starts and get some drive time on the new diff.

Winter racing season? I hate you year round racing guys. Winter is supposed to be when you tear the car apart and make upgrades.

Winter projects. :tup:

What diff do you go with?

LMAO, winter is boost season and race season. I am heading to the track a week from this weekend and at least once a month until you guys wake your cars from their winter sleep. :stirthepot::driving:

Winter = Grip and Rip Season ; )

Why not both?:tup:
os giken
:driving:

Finished it last night. I'm glad I did the bushings as well as everything feels much sharper. On my short test drive they made the biggest difference. I am pleased with how not race car this diff feels. Car drives completely normally. The only hint I got of the increased performance was finishing an on ramp. Normally I get a little slip and a tcs light, but the car just put down the power and exited clean. I will hopefully get some seat time in December and report back.

Are you using the OS Giken gear lube? Use anything else makes the diff noisy, and it will chatter.

What was your backlash before and after?

I am using castrol 75w90 for the 1000 miles/first event, then switching to the osg lube. I had a friends shop do the backlash and it is currently .004.

The ones that I have done run from .0025 to.0035.

First event on the diff is this weekend. So far no chatter or noise but it's been pretty cold since I've installed it. I have around 200 street miles so far.

Here is a link to my ig post of my ftd. Diff feels great. I ran this event with everything else stock save for the diff and rear diff bushings. It is such a great feeling to have the car rotate on throttle instead of just plow through a corner. There are still some front end grip issues due to old tires and camber, but mostly old worn tires. I probably wont do anything about the tires until the real season starts.

Aside from tires, I will be doing the the suspension before the next season but I'm still undecided on the frequency I want to operate in. I read a few years back that street tires work best around 2hz but I don't know if that is still true for the current street tire offerings.

Ordered suspension. I went with the Fortune 500 series with hyperco springs. From my research on the 500 vs the 510, the 500 seemed more appropriate for what I wanted since I still want the car to be streetable and autocross on pretty old pavement. The nice thing about Fortunes is that if I decide to, I can have my 500 rebuilt however I want. I went with 13k front and 12k rear which will put me right around 2hz. I have all the camber products but I am just waiting the coils to arrive in the next couple of weeks.

What makes the 500 more streetable?

Softer high speed compression damping. They don't require you to run over curbing at race pace to "blow off".

short article here

Can't really tell without a shock dyno imo

https://fortune-auto.com/shock-dyno-basics/

the 500 is just softer in general which I want initially. if I re-purpose the car for tt I can get 510 or 2 way valving.

Suspension is on and height adjusted. I'm doing my alignment tomorrow. I am a little bummed I wont have the car corner balanced by the first event but the only cost there is my time. Cant wait to drive this thing.

There's many different ways to measure height but I did mine from the ground through the center of wheel but I got 24.75" in the front and 25.25" in the rear.

Rookie mistake was not measuring what I was at stock, but whatever. I'll run it as low as I can as long as it doesn't create issues with with tires or bottoming out the chassis.

If anyone has other ideas regarding ride height I'm all ears. Not looking for a magic number, just the ideas behind selecting the right height. I used to have an ep3 civic si and even if you had alright clearance, there was an issue with messing up the roll centers. My car isnt nearly that low at the moment but just wondering if there was anything similar on the z.

Edit:
Link to an old thread discussing just that

What size tires are you on? Stock tire diameter and stock springs, car is 28 inch to the fender lip.

I try not to lower too much, so my car is 27 inch with stock wheels. Probably another inch lower on 275/35/18

I'm on the stock wheels with 285/35/19 tires. I probably need to measure again as there's no way I lowered the car 4 inches.:rofl2:

Aligned the car and test drove tonight. I'm happy I went 2hz. The car feels better than stock springs and konis and didnt rub anywhere on the crap roads around where I live.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bv27U5SF...ns_share_sheet

I'm going to measure one more time tomorrow then have the alignment independently checked before getting new tires mounted.

I posted earlier in the thread about wheel fitment. Here is a pic of that same setup with -2.6 camber up front.

edit: Justin I did mess with the height earlier today and just measured 26.75" on all four corners. I still need to corner balance the car and may bring it up if I have issues with the rear toe or bottoming out on the race surface.

Hey guys. I finally got my account activated after joining back in January, right after I bought my Z. After doing as well as one can do in an STI at Nationals in STU, last year, I'm convinced 2wd is the way to go for STU in Lincoln, unless it rains. So I bought a 2011 370Z and already started the build. So far, the power mods are complete. STU wheels/tires are installed. Racing seats are in (though not to my liking). I'm just waiting on my suspension to be built and sent, and I'm deciding between Cusco or OSG for a diff (leaning towards OSG).

Current form:
https://oi1210.photobucket.com/album...psnziux43w.jpg

Welcome cant wait to see what you have to share.

Moving the z43 to STU is making this chassis popular at autocross again.

Here's a link to my video from my first event with the car over the weekend. The car felt really consistent despite not yet having the corner balance done. Ride height went up with fresh tires to just under 27" on each corner. I didn't take data at this event as the course drove more like a road course with way fewer transitions than an average autocross course.

Over the rest of the season I just want to optimize what I have and become accustomed to the much higher limits of the vehicle. square 18x10.5s are scheduled for next season.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/UQ...g=w938-h625-no

Gave ya a follow on instagram. Some good driving there man. Have you experienced "ice-mode" yet?

Not with this set-up. I have in the past when the car was 100% stock. After this event, The car feels like it could take a more aggressive pad, but I need to research what will work best for my application.

Thank you for the follow:usa:

I've got Ferodo DS2500's on mine. They're not overly bitey but still have good stopping power. Also been hearing people running EBC blue stuff pads with good success.

Also when you get bored, slap a set of Hoosiers on and come over and play in BSP. Purple crack is so much more fun than street tires.

Thank you for the recommendation on pads. I'll take look at the Ferodo line.
Are you running the same compound front and rear?

Yep, they're the same front and rear.