small project to make getting to the dampers on the car easier.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-k...Q=w469-h625-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qP...M=w469-h625-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Zs...Q=w834-h625-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lN...A=w469-h625-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vF...8=w469-h625-no

Cut a hole in the rear covers and then used ebay/amazon wheel center caps to make it not look like *** when not in use. In the front I bought some extenders from fortune and tucked them under the strut bar to keep them out the way.

link for people who cant see the photos

Maybe it's just me but your pictures aren't working.

I can see them.

Pics are broken for me too.

You're the IT guru. FIX IT!.

:rofl2:

made an album link for those who cant see the photos.

my first event is this weekend. Super excited. Been working on the car since january in a small storage unit. Hoping it performs as well as I think it will. I'll post pics in here after

GAH! Went to go install my RRP from CJM and found that he sent me the wrong fittings (two female ends). I was supposed to finish the install last night, get my alignment today after work, and race tomorrow. Now I have to skip my race event :(

So bummed, so pissed. Spent several months prepping for this event and now I have to wait until end of may for the next one. :mad::mad::mad: not to mention im out $175 due to CJM sending me the wrong sh!t!

Sorry man, have asked the organization if they will use your payment for the next event. It worth a try. I have done that with my NASA organization.

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:(

Major bummer!

Photos from the first autocross with this years setup. The car felt great. I am happy I decided to put the big Hotchkiss bar back on. With my relatively soft springs it was about perfect. I still need to have the car corner balanced as transitions felt best when I had a bit of ballast with a passenger. The biggest issue I had at this event was clipping cones with the inside rear tire. I never heard them so my guess is I am getting right on top of them and running over the base. I need to get used to how much faster the car turns in now.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...7d7f7b73_z.jpgSolo42019 319 by Jay Bonvouloir, on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...2d416986_z.jpgSolo42019 175 by Jay Bonvouloir, on Flickr


https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...88e9619a_z.jpgSolo42019 026 by Jay Bonvouloir, on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...d714be54_z.jpgSolo42019 172 by Jay Bonvouloir, on Flickr

I finally got my coilovers, but they haven't been installed, yet. And a new diff is currently on it's way. So, my suspension is still bone stock except for the wheels/tires. I'm consistently finishing midpack with this setup in the open PAX classes around here, the biggest drawback, right now being my VLSD. But, you can definitely see the potential of the car once it's done. I've been playing around with camera mounts that mount to the rear strut bar, but am having trouble with stability, as you can see from Sunday's video.



I would love to take the car to nats this year to defend my STU title, but I have tickets to a concert on that Thursday. I may have to do a fly and drive in a Tue/Wed class, instead.

I'd say the right suspension setup would make more of a difference than the VLSD. From what I've read, the VLSD isn't "terrible" until it starts going, then eventually only 1 wheels spins at all times.



I Just ran my car for the first time at Gingerman raceway. WOW! Love the way I have the car configured so far. Word of wisdom, don't use EBC Red Stuff for track use!! I made a huge mistake and they started glazing (melting) causing my car to shake. Car handled very well and after months of building, adjusting, tweaking...I think the car performed very well. The whiteline swaybar I added paired with my coilovers worked very well. I do need to stiffen my front coilovers a bit as I was rubbing in hard cornering. I think I will get an OS Giken diff next season (over winter) along with some racing bucket seats and a roll cage.

As for my pad issue, I spoke to a few people, I'll be making the switch over to G-LOC pads.

ALSO! I learned that my buddy went through TWO sets of z1 2-piece rotors in a matter of a year due to hairline cracking. Keep this in mind when purchasing new rotors, I'd steer clear of z1 2piece!

The Z1 2-pc rotors have been just fine on my autox car. Perhaps the heavier use on a road course is the real problem.

I have not had any issue with the Z1 2 piece rotors as well. I think some people mistake the checkering on the rotor face to be cracking. The the simple test is to run your fingernail across the rotor face and if it doesn't catch in a groove then it is not cracked.

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For the record, mine are the slotted only rotors. I've heard too many stories regarding cracking from cross drilled rotors.

Mine are slotted as well for the same reason.

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Road course is a different animal. Z1 also makes blank replacements if you buy the rotors front and rear separate. For some reason the full kit only comes slotted, drilled or both

They added sprinkled!

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You're right! I forgot that is how they refer to it

Once the stock VLSD gets hot. It's done for until it cools down. Repeated high temps will cook the silicone fluid inside of it. Mine would go open after about 10 minutes of track use.

If you get the OS Giken diff. only use the OS Giken gear lube for it unless you like noise and strange behavior.

I have the RacingBrake 2 peice rotors. They are $$ but are worth it so far. On the 3rd set of pads and the rotors have never been cut or trued. :tup:

Even though my car only has 33k miles, my VLSD is likely 100% toast. If feels like a wide open diff on all my runs, even on really cold days.

I'm currently on Z1 two piece, as well, drilled+slotted. If I end up with issues with the drilled, I'll probably just swap to slotted or sprinkled, only.

Finally got to corner weight the car. I taught myself how to do it so i will most likely need to try it again.

Here is where I started:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/azgKwD21DfU5tjWR8

and where I ended up:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/fSPqzW1wdasT7Apy9

On my next attempt I think I will try to have the fuel closer to race wight which is usually a half tank or less. I did it this time with a full tank since I saw multiple sources saying that you want to avoid corner balancing the car with the possibility of the fuel settling on one side or another. Feedback from you guys is appreciated. Everyone has been really helpful on the build so far.

My buddy, Austin Hertel, went through two sets of z1 2-piece rotors in a matter of a few months (like 3 track days). Both cracked in the exact same spot. Z1 refused to replace the second set. He literally used up .011mm of the rotor when it cracked. I’d steer clear of z1 2-piece rotors if you track your car. Z1s “excuse” is that he used them in very cold temperatures lol.....

Video

In addition to data and a corner balance, I also removed the rear sway bar. I love it. The car has more rear end grip on deceleration and lift while still being able to rotate on throttle. It really makes me more confident in the car during higher speed maneuvers which should come in handy later this month at spring nats.:happydance:

"**** yeah."

censored version unavailable*

It's okay. I had a similar reaction at the Pro Finale a couple years ago.

I just installed a wavetrac lsd in mine, I was a victim of overcooking the vlsd too many times. I have my ride height set at 26.75" floor to fender arch. Running square 285s re71s on 19x10.5 konigs, I had to roll front fenders for clearance/rubbing issues and I run a 15mm spacer in the rear.
What camber to you guys recommend, currently at about 3.3 degrees front and 2 degrees rear?

What offset are the wheels? I'm running Konig Dekagrams of that size and tire combination which are +23 and no spacers currently on stock suspension and alignment and I have very minimal rubbing. That might change once I get the coilovers installed. I was planning on running similar camber that you have.

You need to get a pyrometer and measure the temperature across the tread as the correct amount of camber will depend on numerous factors. If you continuously see higher temperature on the outside of the tire, you probably need more camber. I would start at -3.0 and go from there.

Using a pyrometer - 949 Racing

Same wheels, it's the height that is causing the rubbing. 1.25" lower than oem.

Anyone have experience with lightweight batteries? I am looking at the 17lb braille from tire rack.

I'm running the Odyssey PC680 in mine. It's only been in for a couple months now but no problems so far. According to Odyssey's website it weighs in at 15.4 lbs. Only thing special I've been doing is to hook it to a tender between events since my car rarely leaves the garage except for events.

I've got the big 880 CCA Antigravity battery. It weighs 5.75 lbs. So far, not one complaint.

I finally got my diff done. I ended up going with a Tomei because......well, it's cheaper. It's still not fully broken in, but I did get some fun runs in with it, today, during our novice school, today, and oh my god, what a freakin' difference! I'm going to try to get all my suspension done throughout next week to have the car basically done for the following weekend.

Video from today. Still on stock suspension, but now with the diff. The car is still not competitive, but the new diff is a major improvement. I'm going to try my hardest to get the suspension done before next weekend's events.



https://i1210.photobucket.com/albums...psnippumnb.png

Nice work! What suspension were you thinking about getting?

I have some BC Racing ER series double adjustables with 18k front, 14k rear Swift springs and SPC upper control arms ready to be installed.

Alright, the suspension is in, and alignment has been completed. My car is basically 98% finished. I ended up quickly setting the ride height and alignment and went racing the next day (today). We had a double header in which we ran two events in one day, running the course one way in the morning, then backwards in the afternoon. I ended up second overall PAX, .346 behind BSP National Champion, Ron Bauer, in his BSP ND Miata in the morning, and second again in the afternoon behind Ron, again, this time .638 back. Tire temps show I have a bit too much negative camber in the front (-3.7, -3.9), so I'm going to have to dial it back a bit, and I also want to lower the rear a little more to transfer more weight towards the back. The car still can use a corner balance to top things off. Overall, though, the car is amazing, and fun as ****! I'm excited to get it this fast this quickly and can't wait to run it in Packwood!