Not sure, I guess it starved under cornering? Last run at autox it just started knocking. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

What do you think about the off the shelf Swift-R Springs from Z1? Would they be an OK starting point?

I would save the money and get coilover springs with good shocks to play with the ride height.

I don't think it is worth the time or the money to do a stop gap set-up en route to an actually good one. If I had known the car was moving to stu I probably would have never bought my konis. Research and do it right, ideally, once.

If someone is interested.

http://www.the370z.com/370z-sale/128...rt-silver.html

Ordered my OS Giken yesterday from the nice folks at Z1. Thanks to all you guys' input, my research and 3 seasons in BS, I figured the vlsd was the most limiting factor in the stock 370z while autocrossing. I'm also going to be installing urethane bushings while I have the diff out.

I was initially planning on doing everything at once but when I called Fortune yesterday to price out a set of the aluminum bodied 510, I was advised they are still in development, likely available in early 2019. If anyone else has an idea of where I can get a set of aluminum bodied monotubes built to order for ~$3000 let me know.

If I don't sell my car as a whole, I will part out by end of the month. You can buy these parts from me cheaper.

sent you a pm

Are you going to use the OS Giken 75w250 gear lube?

You should use a solid diff bushing. You won't notice anything different.

Seb change my Whiteline rear diff bushing while he did the rear diff cooler install. He said it was pretty well chewed up. He installed a Z1 diff bushing.

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I don't have any opinions or ideas on gear lube. Solid bushings are strictly prohibited in the Stu ruleset too

The OS Giken lube is recommended. It's on the $$ at $70.00 a liter. And you will need about 2.5 liters. It's the lube I use.

Didn't know that about the bushing rule. :shakes head:

got it. I probably won't.

any thoughts on the legality of this rear camber kit? i would like something that lets me eliminate the rear eccentric bolt set-up.

https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-pro...o-p-12081.html

The street version would be legal but the "race" version is a no go because of the sphericals.

Got it. I was think specifically about the fact that it replaces both arms. Any issues there?

Missed the fact that the kit was camber arm and traction arm. My interpretation of the rules is that the traction arms can't be replaced.

I read the last sentence there as forbidding the traction arm replacement. The second arm that you actually want to replace is the arm the spring bucket is integrated into. Since you can't use a truetype coilover the only options you really have are to keep the eccentric for that arm or get the SPL midlinks and replace the sphericals with poly bushed rod ends.

Not selling the car anymore since the C6Z I was going to buy didn't come through. I will be throwing some more money at parts this winter. Just picked up a 25 row oil cooler.

Looking at Z1 2pc rotors, motor mounts, and intakes.

What is everyone using for brake pads? I was reading that some people prefer the OEM pads.

I've heard some good things about the Carbotech's
https://www.z1motorsports.com/brakes...nt-p-5352.html

I'm actually in the same dilemma, not sure what to get. The folks at Z1 are pretty helpful though, if you call and ask. Are you doing 2 piece all around? or just fronts?

I have run both YellowStuff and Carbotech X10, X8 combo for both street and track. Both will dust. The Carbotech's will dust more the the YellowStuff.

Hows the stopping power and life length between the two?

The YellowStuff's is head and shoulders above stock. The Carbotech's are above the YellowStuff's. The YellowStuff's lasted for about 18 trackdays, and about 18,000 miles. I'm still on the Carbotech's. They will sequel at low speeds. Like coming up to a stop sigh or red light. I also run Racing Brake 2 piece rotors. They are a different grade of cast iron then the Z1's and stock.

XP10/XP8 combo is way too much bite for autox (I ran them for most of a season). I'm running Ferrodo DS2500's on my SP car now.

What? You don't like your eyeballs stuck in the windshield? :rofl2: Autocross is not my forte'. I was hoping you would jump in with your experience on this. :tup:

Most likely all around. I will probably use the stock pads and see how it goes.

I'm on oem pads all around

My co-drivers and I have always been more than happy with the stock pads. I recently tried Hawk HP+ on my C5 and they are far too aggressive for autox.

Started the removal of the factory vlsd this week. I plan to take the rear end to a buddy to have him install the diff and transfer over the ring gear. I plan to fill the the diff back up with Castrol 75w90 for no reason other than its what I had. I plan to leave it in for the 1000 mile break in then switch to something heavier if I get too much chatter. I will have the opportunity to run the car with a local club in late October once the diff is in so it will be fun to see what kind of change it will make in an otherwise all stock z.

If you want to get into some Carbotech pads and not brake the bank :tiphat: I have a set of F+R AX6 pads I'd let go for $150 that only have two ax events on them. They have pretty high cold bite.

Which LSD you going with?

Is the stock VLSD that bad for track use?

The stock VLSD. Once it gets hot. It starts to act like an open diff. That's the why of diff coolers. After a while with repeated abuse from the track. The VLSD just fades away and doesn't come back. It becomes a one wheel peeler.

The gear driven LSD's are great until you lift an inside tire in a corner. Then all of the power goes to the lifted tire. Use any gear lube you like. Doesn't need the LSD additive.

The clutch type LSD, OS Giken and others. If you lift an inside tire. They will still send power to both tires. They are tune-able. 1, 1.5, and 2 Way. Plus percent of lock-up. You have to know what you are doing! But you have to drop the diff and pull the LSD to open it up and change things around. The Giken takes it'sown gear lube which is $70.00 per liter. And you need 2 liters. If you have a diff cooler. Then it's 3.5 liters. $$$$ The clutch type LSD's are more money too.

Good to know!

osg

:tup:
Use their gear lube. If not. It will act weird. Just ask Spooler. :rofl2: Mine has been smooth as butter with the OSG lube.

I don't doubt it. The instructions say to drain the fluid after 1000 miles and I don't plan on giving them $120 twice so quickly. If I die I die

Don't feel bad. I have to buy 4 liters at a time. That's like pushing it in deep. :icon23:

For the break in just run Motul 75w90 or 75w140, then switch over to the OSG fluid.

Hi, I'm the guy who petitioned the SEB to get the Nismo in STU. I plan to do some west coast or TX national events for 2019. I'm just going to get some Koni sports to run with OEM Nismo springs and see what happens. Lots of commuting miles. Maybe the KW v3 coilovers would do. I haven't had any trouble with the VLSD yet, though it's not great for drifting. I am pretty happy with the Z1 alignment bits, but the SPC toe bolts slip. As stated earlier, you can't replace the traction arms, so that sucks. Hope to see some of you out there. The 370Z is pretty uncommon on the AutoX scene for some reason.

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By the way, the big difference with Z1 UFCAs is the increased caster. Plus it's easy to pull the upper ball joint out and give it a couple of turns to increase the camber for the weekend and then undo it for daily driving when you change the tires.

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If you search you can probably find the post where I had similar thoughts on the VLSD until...

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1744/...5a32c91f_z.jpg_BES1849 by brendan sobers, on Flickr

It didnt start happening until I started getting better and running on higher grip surfaces.