Photography Chat Version 1.0

phelan · 08-05-2011, 12:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nitex

I watched a few vids on you tube about ISO, aperture, shutter speed etc. Then followed that up with a quick lightroom 3 tutorial.

I think i learned a few things.. I took this RC pic before i watched the videos, so i think there is much to improve upon when using manual mode. But i tried to use tips from the photoshop tutorial. Here was the result.

Not great but i think my post process is starting to improve.

In lieu of my recent and very small amount of lessons learned, i would have raised my aperture just enough to get all the car in focus, and move the stupid stick. Also, for what ever reason i set my shutter speed at 1/25 using my 50mm. Would it have been better at 1/50th?

I should have manualy set my focus point after moving the stick as well

What LR3 tutorial did you take? I feel like I'm not using the program correctly.

also - i'm debating grabbing an sb-400 speedlight and a 50mm prime lens. thoughts on the external flash? too early for a beginner to use / stick to the built in? or go ahead and try it out?

Parkerman · 08-05-2011, 06:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phelan

What LR3 tutorial did you take? I feel like I'm not using the program correctly.

also - i'm debating grabbing an sb-400 speedlight and a 50mm prime lens. thoughts on the external flash? too early for a beginner to use / stick to the built in? or go ahead and try it out?

I wouldn't get the SB-400, to my knowledge you can't bounce it.

If you could find yourself a used/new SB-600 that would be a good start.

Nick911sc · 08-05-2011, 08:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phelan

What LR3 tutorial did you take? I feel like I'm not using the program correctly.

also - i'm debating grabbing an sb-400 speedlight and a 50mm prime lens. thoughts on the external flash? too early for a beginner to use / stick to the built in? or go ahead and try it out?

I've had great success using the chinese flashes made by YongNuo. All the features of the more expensive flashes for a fraction of the price. If you go this route make sure it has ettl, not just manual.

k20z3 · 08-12-2011, 12:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nitex

I watched a few vids on you tube about ISO, aperture, shutter speed etc. Then followed that up with a quick lightroom 3 tutorial.

I think i learned a few things.. I took this RC pic before i watched the videos, so i think there is much to improve upon when using manual mode. But i tried to use tips from the photoshop tutorial. Here was the result.

Not great but i think my post process is starting to improve.

In lieu of my recent and very small amount of lessons learned, i would have raised my aperture just enough to get all the car in focus, and move the stupid stick. Also, for what ever reason i set my shutter speed at 1/25 using my 50mm. Would it have been better at 1/50th?

I should have manualy set my focus point after moving the stick as well

I like where you're going with original idea, More movement, more exaggerated movements, like a 100 mm prime make it look larger than life, these appear like toys-- I get it but make them appear more real use some nice lighting sunset, tungsten lighting shadows go blue add some nice effects

Ce photography

Nitex · 08-12-2011, 02:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by k20z3

I like where you're going with original idea, More movement, more exaggerated movements, like a 100 mm prime make it look larger than life, these appear like toys-- I get it but make them appear more real use some nice lighting sunset, tungsten lighting shadows go blue add some nice effects

Ce photography

Thanks for the ideas! I have my 105 macro i could try. Only thing i have thats fixed at that length.

So i got a decent mothra shot tonight. And one moon shot with my 70-300 + x2 teleconverter. It did ok... Ill keep trying. I know its realllyyy noisy but.. im just trying to pick up as much detail as possible.

kenchan · 08-04-2011, 10:54 PM

Nitex-good color and clarity!

here's my take for today... biggest change from yesterday is i got rid of the annoying reflections on the panels by moving things around in the basement, adjusted apeture to get more of the car in focus yet tried to maintain interest on the front end of the car while lighting a bluer hue on the rear wheel to keep the eye moving. no adjustment made other than resize (no color, lighting, crop done)

Alchemy · 08-04-2011, 11:01 PM

Nitex, MUCH better than the first rc pic.
Ken, You are gettin good pretty damn quick. Nice shot.
I went out in the woods shooting this evening, was uninspired and came home empty.

kenchan · 08-05-2011, 06:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alchemy

Ken, You are gettin good pretty damn quick. Nice shot.
I went out in the woods shooting this evening, was uninspired and came home empty.

Hey thanks alchemy!

yah, at your level I'm sure you don't want to just snap a pict of just anything.

Red__Zed · 08-05-2011, 06:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Parkerman

I wouldn't get the SB-400, to my knowledge you can't bounce it.

If you could find yourself a used/new SB-600 that would be a good start.

You can definitely bounce the sb400. You can't twist or swivel, only rotate though

Parkerman · 08-05-2011, 09:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Red__Zed

You can definitely bounce the sb400. You can't twist or swivel, only rotate though

Ahh, Dang... Im losing it apparently.

But if you were taking a verticle pictures though, you wouldn't be able to bounce it off a ceiling would you? It will only rotate upwards correct?

Thats why I would still suggest trying to find a used SB-600.

phelan · 08-05-2011, 08:33 AM

i thought the sb-600 was discontinued, that's why it's stupid expensive on amazon compared to the sb-400...

Cmike2780 · 08-05-2011, 10:18 AM

A off camera or at least shoe mounted flash is essenstial for indoor, even daytime outdoor work. It lets you control how objects or people are lit in the scene, which can mean the difference between looking like a snapshot or a work of art. If you want to up your photo work quality, a speedlight really improves it because you are less reliant on available light in the scene.

I use a SB-900 & a SB-600 as a slave strobe. I love how easy Nikons are when in comes to wireless speedlights. I would agree with Parkerman, the SB-600, even used is a much better flash, more powerfull, than the SB-400. Its well worth the extra expense. The newer SB-700 is probably out of your budget. The SB-600's also have "gels" you can buy that can match the lighting conditions and doesn't mess with the white balance. If the SB-400 is all you can afford to spend right now, its still worth it because the built-in flash is just about useless.

Also, a lot of people overlook white balance and just set it to "auto". Everyone should learn how to do a custom white balance with a grey card (very inexpensive, accurate and saves you a lot of time in post editing).

phelan · 08-05-2011, 11:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cmike2780

A off camera or at least shoe mounted flash is essenstial for indoor, even daytime outdoor work. It lets you control how objects or people are lit in the scene, which can mean the difference between looking like a snapshot or a work of art. If you want to up your photo work quality, a speedlight really improves it because you are less reliant on available light in the scene.

I use a SB-900 & a SB-600 as a slave strobe. I love how easy Nikons are when in comes to wireless speedlights. I would agree with Parkerman, the SB-600, even used is a much better flash, more powerfull, than the SB-400. Its well worth the extra expense. The newer SB-700 is probably out of your budget. The SB-600's also have "gels" you can buy that can match the lighting conditions and doesn't mess with the white balance. If the SB-400 is all you can afford to spend right now, its still worth it because the built-in flash is just about useless.

Also, a lot of people overlook white balance and just set it to "auto". Everyone should learn how to do a custom white balance with a grey card (very inexpensive, accurate and saves you a lot of time in post editing).

Well typically I shoot in raw. It was my understanding no white balancing is applied to NEF or raw files, so typically I tweak it later. Is that incorrect?

Any suggestions on where to find / buy reliable used stuff like a speedlight?

Cmike2780 · 08-05-2011, 11:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phelan

Well typically I shoot in raw. It was my understanding no white balancing is applied to NEF or raw files, so typically I tweak it later. Is that incorrect?

Any suggestions on where to find / buy reliable used stuff like a speedlight?

You are correct. Although, RAW files are still tagged with whatever white balance settings (as well as saturation, contrast etc) were on the camera. The difference are plenty, but the biggest "pro" for shooting RAW is being able to adjust those settings without being "distructive." There is considerably more data recorded with RAW files (12bit vs 8 bit)which means more data to work with in post. I usually shoot in RAW+JPEG. This way if I get it right in, less work for me. Shooting in RAW is great, but sometimes you don't need it.

A local camera store or B&H are great place to start since they usually carry some type of warranty (usually 6 months). They are usually a bit more than say, EBay though. It's probably still around $250-$280 for a used SB-600, so I don't know how that would play into your budget.

phelan · 08-05-2011, 12:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cmike2780

You are correct. Although, RAW files are still tagged with whatever white balance settings (as well as saturation, contrast etc) were on the camera. The difference are plenty, but the biggest "pro" for shooting RAW is being able to adjust those settings without being "distructive." There is considerably more data recorded with RAW files (12bit vs 8 bit)which means more data to work with in post. I usually shoot in RAW+JPEG. This way if I get it right in, less work for me. Shooting in RAW is great, but sometimes you don't need it.

A local camera store or B&H are great place to start since they usually carry some type of warranty (usually 6 months). They are usually a bit more than say, EBay though. It's probably still around $250-$280 for a used SB-600, so I don't know how that would play into your budget.

point taken, i also shoot in raw+jpeg, but so far i haven't been too happy with the shots i take straight out of the camera. i'm still far behind our super learner kenchan here

i found a craigslister that's selling the sb-700 for 275 including the ml-l3 remote and a diffuser...i'm asking for details and negotiating, i might jump on it if it's good, but as always i'm very skeptical of CL

08-04-2011, 11:01 PM	#7 (permalink)
Alchemy A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Jersey Age: 46 Posts: 4,855 Drives: to acquire tickets Rep Power: 3526	Nitex, MUCH better than the first rc pic. Ken, You are gettin good pretty damn quick. Nice shot. I went out in the woods shooting this evening, was uninspired and came home empty. __________________ Ryan 314WHP \| 260LB-FT \| STILLEN \| KONI \| SWIFT \| STOPTECH \| Z1 \| PROJECT MU \| CNT \| UPREV \| FORGESTAR \| BRIDGESTONE \| PWJDM \| ENEOS \| MOTUL

08-05-2011, 08:33 AM	#11 (permalink)
phelan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: CA Age: 40 Posts: 9,513 Drives: Scoobaroo Rep Power: 3408	i thought the sb-600 was discontinued, that's why it's stupid expensive on amazon compared to the sb-400... __________________ 凛 ('Rin') - 2009 Nissan 370Z With silence comes peace. With peace comes freedom. With freedom comes silence.

08-05-2011, 10:18 AM	#12 (permalink)
Cmike2780 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Long Island Posts: 5,059 Drives: slowwww Rep Power: 30	A off camera or at least shoe mounted flash is essenstial for indoor, even daytime outdoor work. It lets you control how objects or people are lit in the scene, which can mean the difference between looking like a snapshot or a work of art. If you want to up your photo work quality, a speedlight really improves it because you are less reliant on available light in the scene. I use a SB-900 & a SB-600 as a slave strobe. I love how easy Nikons are when in comes to wireless speedlights. I would agree with Parkerman, the SB-600, even used is a much better flash, more powerfull, than the SB-400. Its well worth the extra expense. The newer SB-700 is probably out of your budget. The SB-600's also have "gels" you can buy that can match the lighting conditions and doesn't mess with the white balance. If the SB-400 is all you can afford to spend right now, its still worth it because the built-in flash is just about useless. Also, a lot of people overlook white balance and just set it to "auto". Everyone should learn how to do a custom white balance with a grey card (very inexpensive, accurate and saves you a lot of time in post editing). __________________ [09][MB][6-Spd MT][Touring][Stillen Gen III][K&N][Borla CBE][Evo-R] [ArchitTEK Photography] Last edited by Cmike2780; 08-05-2011 at 10:27 AM.

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kenchan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: N/A Posts: 76,801 Drives: N/A Rep Power: 141522	Nitex-good color and clarity! here's my take for today... biggest change from yesterday is i got rid of the annoying reflections on the panels by moving things around in the basement, adjusted apeture to get more of the car in focus yet tried to maintain interest on the front end of the car while lighting a bluer hue on the rear wheel to keep the eye moving. no adjustment made other than resize (no color, lighting, crop done)

**Photography Chat** Version 1.0

Photography Chat Version 1.0