FRS/BRZ 11.3 @ 127 stock engine

Brazilbro

I just think its funny how much attention this car got from the aftermarket community so fast and the 370z STILL is being forgotten . It's no question the z could run 10,s on stock block with race gas or e85. I don't know why that is being argued. I was planning on running E85 and 16psi before I sold my 370. That was a over a yr ago and I'm still in the top 5 fastests 1/4 times. I can't believe no one has taken the z to the next step yet.

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Juke AWD/240Z SR20
08 Evo 10(Stage 2) SOLD
Fastest Sport 6spd 370Z 11.8 @126.5SOLD

red6spd

You have to take in to account the MSRP of the two cars. Most young people cant afford a Z which is why the Genesis Coupe and now BR FR is so popular in the aftermarket world. I have no joke already seen more BR's and FR's then Z's on the island.

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2010 Base+Sport 6spd: Stillen G3, FI Non-Resonated CBE, FI Non-Resonated Test Pipes, UpRev Tuned, Custom 24R Oil Cooler, JDM Rear Fog-OEM Harness.
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Brazilbro

Ya , I think that and the fact the the motor needs to be removed to install the tt kit probably doest help either with that added cost.

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Juke AWD/240Z SR20
08 Evo 10(Stage 2) SOLD
Fastest Sport 6spd 370Z 11.8 @126.5SOLD

bvl

1. marketing
2. Affordable segment

Its going to sell more units. Much more then a Z. If you were in the aftermarket business (a highly competitive one at that), you will develop for your market.

If you were to specialize in say a low volume car like the Z34, you will price your product to recoup costs. Ala 'BMW/Porsche turbo kits are so expensive'.

Can I get a 'duh' from the congregation?.

Small flat 4 is going to be easier to package a FI system then a tight V6, isn't it? its going to be less time and money to get going. Does this really surprise anyone?

Doesn't meant the Z is bad...I have a big honkin' V6 with torque and a 7yr warranty. I also have in the past put a well matched turbo on a little 4 banger and ran it 100K as a street car with no rebuild (it was a very stout OEM block from the 80's...go mazda)

With a BRZ, I wouldn't want to spend 27K on a new car to blow the warranty on a turbo kit (say 36K invested) only to not know the long term ramifications of running say 12 PSI on pump gas on a new engine with no proven track record.

Kudos to the early adopters who are willing to take those risks and have 5-8K for a new long block or rebuild budgeted. I think its very interesting from an engineering standpoint to see how far you can push the stock block.

I just don't look at it as overwhelming evidence of how good the stock block is, nor that its a slam dunk these kits are going to run 100K with no engine issues. No hate...just well placed caution.

- b

Iceagetlc

If ANY 4 or even 6 cylinder stock N/A car can run 30 pounds for 100k I'd be impressed. There is always a level of uncertainty in the tuning world, if there wasn't then we'd all be twin turbo cuz YOLO.

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Japanjay

Just FYI, but 30 psi with a t25 is not the same as 30 PSI on a GT35R.... In all honesty argueing over PSI just shows you know very little about forced induction.... Not to be a **** but CFM is what it is about.

Here are my concerns:

1: Dude wearing a motec shirt??? Was it viscotti tuned or Motec? If it was motec then there is alot of $$$$ being invested into this, not to discredit viscotti but I have no idea who you are but I do know who Motec is. Havent looked into the Z being tuned with Motec since I am not near that yet, but at the same time havent seen anyone on here using it either. Wish they did have something for the Z and if they do you will be who I am going with.

2. What type of exhaust manifold was built? What needed to be done to make it fit? Are there other manifold options that could possible make the same power without as many modifications or better yet other options that might be more efficient?

3: What type of turbo? Makes a big difference, ie: was it at the smaller faster spooling one that was at it limits or was it a bigger one with room to grow? What is the max size turbo with that manifold going to fit in the bay?

4: Upgraded fuel pump and injectors I am assuming due to running E85? You can right off the get go without calculating the fuel inflow being almost twice as high. Kills you MPG drastically and not everyone can get their hands on E85. Not saying you cant run meth, but come on how far past voiding the warranty do you want to get???? Again same can be done in the Z and not have to push the motor as hard to get the same numbers.....

5: I know that isnt the stock clutch....

6: What are they considering just bolt ons???

The way I look at it, it is going to be at least 2-3 years before buying a FRS/BRZ is going to be worth while for the fun factor and even then modding it, it is going to put you in the price range of a low milage used Z with the same numbers.

I mean you can take the stock B18b in my integra in the garage and get 300whp without any internals and with a spot on tune drive for a long time and not have any issues? From 300whp to 350ish all you need is ARP head studs. Over the 350ish wall you need to start looking at forged pistons and rods. Getting into the 450whp area and above you need to look at sleeving....

Still though, I could drop around $8k at speedfactory down street and get a street stalker that will pretty much blow the doors off anything. I mean those guys just clipped IIRC a 8.33 or something close....Mind you it took alot more than $8k to get that, but, one of my employees has a type-r that she bought from someone that was built by them that was putting down ~430whp and was in the low 11's with an inexperienced driver, her BF, not that he is a bad driver, but he not a true race car driver in the purest form...

I didnt buy the Z hell bent on being the fastest in town and I think most can agree. The people that buy the new z's bought them because they are already more than adaquate for around town, look damn good doing it too, and can more than hold their own against more exspensive and higher WHP cars. The heritage is another big one.

If I bought the FRS it would be a couple years old and come into it knowing it is a slow turd that looks semi fast and is going to need some serious work to make it even live up to its looks. But as we all know once you start doing some serious building, like what this FRS/BRZ has done to it, its reliabilty starts to greatly deminish....

In human years this car is still sucking on it moms teats. Let it make it even 20k miles in my hands and I would be semi impressed.... There is still so much to be discovered about this car, THAT is what is keeping all of us watching for several years to come.... Only time will bring these cars fate.

bvl

30? Wasn't the link about a 20 PSI build that wasn't a drag queen, i.e. some street ability but likely that snail has an A/R sized near its thermal limits but I have no idea about that mapping, just talking basic theory here.

As pointed out, rather then talk about PSI its more a question of relative power levels (peak torque which is where things go boom from pushing the limits of a stock rod etc...).

So we have a car that is pushing what, over 3x wheel torque from stock form? That's quite a lot. So we need an engine over built from the factory. A good over build would see say 2x increase in a reliable form (think older 2.0 DSM, Older 2.0 Subaru, Supra, Mazda B6/B8 to name just a few)

This is uncharted waters for a NA subaru engine. Anyone running over say 10lbs best have a good AAA account

Finally, not trying to hate on people who are excited to go in a strait line. Saw many a person get wood over running 13's in a hondas back in the 90's when my preference was to go around tracks fast. Wanna go fast in a strait line? Go get a Mustang or small block chevy which is a reliable package to stomp on 40K modified Toybarus. Sure you will have to go aftermarket for some gold chains and Just For Men mustache coloring kit but those are small expenses to pay for those fast drag slips.

- b