oil change - 3k miles? 3 months?

DEpointfive0

I'm waiting on it actually. I sent in a virgin sample as well even though someone on the forum has already

I did run a sample at work myself (yes, we have a GC machine for anyone thinking I'm talking out of my ***), but since I don't have parameters set up, all I pretty much saw is that my oil is oil and had no gasoline or water in it, LOL
So I am anxious about Blackstone's results

Honestly, I'm not sure if Nissan's Ester oil has a better base stock than others like Redline or Motul, because its a 50/50 whether Nissan's oil is synthetic or a blend. I am 99% sure it IS a grade IV oil, and that's good enough for me! (And hey, we used Dino oil for...... 50+ years without problems, a blend should be OK)


At the end of the day, YES, Nissan IS sticking it to us with their own oil, I know that, that's why even the dealershits have to buy them by the quart.
BUT, accepting that fact, don't we think that they are formulating this oil to our cars, and they designed it because of our cars???
That's my opinion on it, ONLY the 2009 Maxima and 370Z HAD a requirement for Ester Oil at one point, it wasn't a requirement for long, but it was there... And still dealers out there will give you an Ester oil change with your factory maintainence agreement ONLY if you have the 2009, like mine/me, lol

Another blatantly obvious example of it being more tailor made is that when you run a normal synthetic you might get valve chatter, while its "not bad" for the car, I don't want that sound, it's not supposed to run or sound like that IMO, lol


Just my 2, or maybe 4 or 6 cents now with all that info/text, lol

OMGiGOTaZ

Mine has had 4 oil changes in 4 months and I'm at 9000+ miles... I drive the piss outta my Z so I take extra good care of her

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DEpointfive0

Oh, and if we think the factory's recommendation for oil is BS, why do we bother following their recommendation for 5w30? (This next comment is thick, but it's only for "argument's" sake) But why not run 20w50, less prone to burning! Or straight 50? Lol... Or if you're worried about drag, run 0w20!

Now, some may run 10w30 which is OK as long as your battery can crank through the pain of 5w vs 10w, LOL, and some may run 5w40 with no adverse affects... YET...


It's still all user preference obviously, and it's taste and belief... I like Jack and coke, you might like Crown and coke, but if I'm drinking it straight I'd rather have Crown, or Gentleman Jack or something else, but to mix, Jack
Same with let's say cigarettes, there are 200 different kinds, all slight variations from each other, they all pretty much have the same effect at the end of the day.

I really like Mobil 1, run it in all my other cars... Not this car though... Just personal preference based on application

bvl

To your weight point, most cars still run over a range fine and its buried in the manual. Fuel efficiency will go down a tad with heavier weight oils of course hence the push for 0/20 amongst the 4 banger fuel sippers of the world.

M-1, while blasted on BITOG.com for meh results by oil snobs, has been a solid product for a very long time. Reformulated? Sure a few times. But 350K+ combined miles on 3 cars I have owned in the last 17 and it did perfectly fine by me (including a dozen or so UOA's). Sure group 4/5 oils are very nice and if I really wanted to run 10K+ OCI's I would spend more for a PAO based oil. But I don't....and 6mo/7500 mile while in warranty means the 'cheap stuff' works just fine.

I am using the PU in the Z based off some good UOA's I have seen and to try something new. Honestly M1 0/40 Euro is one of the most well rounded blends out there as well and I would consider using that as well...and simplify my garage oil storage system (zee german car we recently got takes it).

Based on how I drive, I can use every MPG aide I can get...so 5/30 stays in the Z.

- b

dirtrat

It's what's recommended by Nissan and I'd like to preserve my 8 year warranty with them. Is this good enough reason to continue using 5W30 ?

DEpointfive0

I posted that just for argument's sake, if you used 0W30 or even 5W40, I doubt Nissan will really deny a warranty claim, but I think it was designed for something, and that's what should be used...


I have an 8 year warranty and cherish having it, lol...

As long as you prove you have done oil changes, even at YOUR house (by showing receipts for buying oil/filters) they won't turn you down for warranty issues...

Dustin@Z1

That is why we created the Oil Change package a few years ago for DIY Z owners. Labor rates can be a bit pricey or they will charge you a ridiculous amount for the oil/filter. Dealerships are great, but there is a certain satisfaction KNOWING that your oil is genuine NISSAN BRAND OIL and not some unknown brand oil being pumped out of a 55 gal drum.

There is also a certain satisfaction knowing that you did the job yourself and it was done to YOUR standards.

As far as oil change intervals, the whole 3 mo/3mile is just an old standard which was created way before some of the newer oils we have out today like the Ester or most Synthetics. You should be fine going longer since you do not drive it as much.

SouthArk370Z

IMNSHO
Take everything DEpointfive0 said and dial it back a notch for the average daily driver. Everything he said is spot-on if you want to squeeze every last bit of longevity out of your engine (or you are an obsessive Chemist heehee), but how many are going to keep their Z for 10-12 years?
I put it in the same category as the does-downshifting-wear-out-the-drivetrain-faster question - running less than perfect lubrication/driving habits decreases the life of the engine/drivetrain slightly, but it doesn't do enough damage to really matter (as long as you are reasonable about it).

Once the warranty runs out, I plan on using a full-synthetic and a high-quality filter with changes at 6000-7500 mile intervals. Just about any modern, name-brand oil will do a great job, but I think synthetic is cool. I wouldn't be afraid to run a top-quality petro-based oil, but would shorten the change interval to 4000-5000.
Probably overkill, but I can be a bit obsessive, too.

PS: I change the oil/filter in my pickup truck, but not the Z. The car is too close to the ground and I don't want to mess with that shield. Well worth the $20-30 just to avoid the aggravation and I don't have to buy ramps.

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DEpointfive0

I think you only need to show receipts usually for the last 3 oil changes if you do them outside the dealershit

Steph nz

one year since last oil change and one thousand miles driven !!! Crazy winter (car was in the garage for 7 months) and I'm ready to get the Z on the road again. When I looked at my odometer I noticed I only put 1,000 mile this past year. So my question is should I change my oil ?? or should I clock another 2,500 miles which I will be doing this summer for sure. Thanks for your response

kenchan

i only put a few thousand miles on my Z as well each year. i only change the oil once a year in the Spring using mobil1 silver cap 5w30. you can get a 5qt jug at walmart for like $25.

sure beats paying $90 for the same oil in japan.

Limeybastard

For those that do low miles per year. Be sure to get oil temp at optimum levels and get rpms high occasionally. We all know short hop driving is not good.

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Fountainhead

I use PYB/Nissan Filter (Insane Moly levels) and change it at 3750 or earlier if my schedule forces me. I like changing the oil myself, I get under the car and really look at it. Mine is a DD in FL heat with many stop and go lights....in FL you spend a LOT of time at traffic lights. I realize I could use Synth tier 1 any brand but then I wouldn't get to change the oil as often!
I know, cheap thrill.

Limeybastard

Same here . I drive mine just for the sake of it not DD. Put 4k miles since April 17th.

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eastwest2300

Mobil 1, 5w-30, with a filtermag is the way to go.

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