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-   -   370Z Battery Life Expectancy (http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-warranty-scheduled-maintenance-servicing-repairs/43497-370z-battery-life-expectancy.html)

jayhuffdaddy 09-08-2014 05:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DWS44 (Post 2917123)
Gave up on my stock battery and replaced it this morning with a new Diehard Platinum. Mine is a 2010 Roadster, built 9/2009 (I bought used 12/2010), and just turned 60,000 mi...daily driver since 4/2011. While the stock battery still had some life in it, it had gotten VERY sluggish starting the car to the point of barely turning over in the mornings. Wasn't worth it to see how much further it would go before stranding me somewhere.

Now with the fresh battery, startup is fastest I think I've ever seen in the car! Thanks to the board members how-to's on the subject, swapping the batteries was a snap! :tup:

I'm seeing this now with mine and the sluggish startup. It's like the car does not want to turn over and struggles to do so. Got my car 12/09 and it has 60k miles on it.

kenchan 09-08-2014 06:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jayhuffdaddy (Post 2957645)
I'm seeing this now with mine and the sluggish startup. It's like the car does not want to turn over and struggles to do so. Got my car 12/09 and it has 60k miles on it.

yah, if you didnt maintain it, probably toast. get a replacement. :D

Z-Girl 12 10-25-2014 01:30 PM

Gauge pod reflects 14 when idle...
 
Had the battery tested today...time to replace or do I have life left? Z is 3yrs old...rated:600CA measured 486CCA and voltage 12.55V.

Thanks in advance!

Limeybastard 10-25-2014 01:37 PM

Open the caps and inspect inside and see if the cells are submerged. If not top it off that should give you another year.

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

Z-Girl 12 10-25-2014 01:41 PM

Limeybastard wow it feels so weird calling you that. I did this morning and the manual says do not overfill. Really difficult to tell in those lil holes if I'm over filling so I did kind of halfway.

Z-Girl 12 10-25-2014 02:15 PM

O'Reilly says bad cell on their reading. Could last 6 months or die today. Gonna go ahead and replace, not trying to be stranded.

Limeybastard 10-26-2014 12:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Z-Girl 12 (Post 3012248)
Limeybastard wow it feels so weird calling you that. I did this morning and the manual says do not overfill. Really difficult to tell in those lil holes if I'm over filling so I did kind of halfway.

You can call me Freddy Bear. :roflpuke2:

Joking aside, Yeah, dont overfill, just enough that the cells inside are submerged. The FL heat destroys them.

EDIT. A pretty girl like you stranded? Never.

jayhuffdaddy 11-13-2014 05:44 PM

Battery finally went out today at 63,105 miles. Lasted me 4 years 11 months. I went ahead and replaced it with an Evermax from Walmart. Install was pretty simple and it fired right up.

kenchan 11-14-2014 10:37 AM

GJ!

tonythetiger 11-19-2014 11:30 PM

battery died with 74,000miles which lasted 4yrs

kenhdcgov 11-20-2014 09:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tonythetiger (Post 3035307)
battery died with 74,000miles which lasted 4yrs

I still have the original battery in my 2009. It has been with me for 5 years. However, I cheated. I only have 12,800 miles on the car. :tiphat:

kenhdcgov 11-20-2014 09:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jayhuffdaddy (Post 3030653)
Battery finally went out today at 63,105 miles. Lasted me 4 years 11 months. I went ahead and replaced it with an Evermax from Walmart. Install was pretty simple and it fired right up.

What was the price and how good is the battery?
Thanks:tiphat:

jayhuffdaddy 11-20-2014 10:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenhdcgov (Post 3035556)
What was the price and how good is the battery?
Thanks:tiphat:

$109 plus $12 core fee. Battery has a 5 year warranty as well.

Silly Rabbit 11-20-2014 11:51 AM

2012 with 7k miles. Dealer replaced battery under warranty last week. Original owner only put 3k miles on it in 2yrs which probably led to its early death. I figured it was a wear item without warranty, but they covered it 100%.

boosted180 12-17-2014 11:18 AM

mine is dead. its been starting up very sluggishly in the past months, but today it wont even start.

how do I know if I need a new battery or just charging it would be enough. I have it hooked up to the charger now, but not sure if that will last.

SouthArk370Z 12-17-2014 11:24 AM

Have you checked the electrolyte levels?
You can take it to most auto parts stores and get it tested for free.
If it's the original battery, it's about time for it to go out.

90 ST 12-17-2014 12:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boosted180 (Post 3058975)
mine is dead. its been starting up very sluggishly in the past months, but today it wont even start.

how do I know if I need a new battery or just charging it would be enough. I have it hooked up to the charger now, but not sure if that will last.

Sounds like it's time to change it.

kenchan 12-17-2014 03:15 PM

i'd start with battery water level check, and if the levels are normal and still dont start normal after a full charge (on a charger), time to replace it.

you can get the cca checked, but if it's not holding a charge, its not holding a charge.

JARblue 12-17-2014 03:42 PM

The lady at Advanced Auto Parts said every time she messes with the battery fluid level they explode :icon14: :ugh:

I was reluctant, but I let her test my battery anyway. I made her just stand there and hold the tester. She also got to print out the slip of paper that said I was running on 241 CCA (min recommended is 585 CCA).

kenchan 12-17-2014 06:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JARblue (Post 3059394)
The lady at Advanced Auto Parts said every time she messes with the battery fluid level they explode :icon14: :ugh:

I was reluctant, but I let her test my battery anyway. I made her just stand there and hold the tester. She also got to print out the slip of paper that said I was running on 241 CCA (min recommended is 585 CCA).

lol! :rofl2:

tell her to stop eating tacohell after water level service.

nis350 12-21-2014 01:18 AM

The life of the battery is depended on how well it is maintained. It would last much longer if it is kept near full charged at all time. It will deteriorate much faster if it is always low on charge.

kenchan 12-21-2014 08:01 AM

Impossible! :mad:


















:icon17:

nis350 12-21-2014 05:56 PM

have you heard of 'battery tender'?

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenchan (Post 3061930)
Impossible! :mad:


















:icon17:


boosted180 12-22-2014 12:05 PM

I got it checked and the AAA guy said I need a new battery. $107 installed with 3 year warranty. Cheaper than buying one at Autozone and doing it myself.

nis350 12-22-2014 06:57 PM

that's a good deal as you have to remove the trim around the battery for installation. what's the cca on the battery?

Quote:

Originally Posted by boosted180 (Post 3062732)
I got it checked and the AAA guy said I need a new battery. $107 installed with 3 year warranty. Cheaper than buying one at Autozone and doing it myself.


kentstuh 02-20-2015 06:21 PM

Would you guys recommend me getting this? OPTIMA® Batteries 8040-218 D35 YELLOWTOP® Starting & Deep-Cycle Battery

kenhdcgov 02-23-2015 09:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kentstuh (Post 3118096)
Would you guys recommend me getting this? OPTIMA® Batteries 8040-218 D35 YELLOWTOP® Starting & Deep-Cycle Battery

That's the way that I am going to go for sure!! :tiphat:

kenchan 02-23-2015 09:38 AM

honestly just get the regular batteries walmart/auto parts store sells with decent cca.

Unless you're doing some show where no access to power, no need for deep cycles.

JARblue 02-23-2015 09:51 AM

woah... three Ken's posted in a row

falicfr 02-23-2015 01:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Z-Girl 12 (Post 3012248)
Limeybastard wow it feels so weird calling you that. I did this morning and the manual says do not overfill. Really difficult to tell in those lil holes if I'm over filling so I did kind of halfway.

Purchase a battery filler bottle with auto shut off. Not expensive.

:tiphat:

FPenvy 02-23-2015 01:09 PM

i think i may need a new battery soon. mine is still factory from 2009 so 6-7 years and 40k miles. still works fine but its getting up there i guess.

kenchan 02-26-2015 04:50 PM

check your water level when charge is full FP.

you can go much longer then dat. my G is running its factory battery from 2004. :p
and obviously my 09 is running stock battery.

Night Fury 02-27-2015 05:23 PM

I just replaced my battery after a couple of struggle starts and two no starts. 4yrs 6mos 59K miles. I'm in a '10 Nismo, so those of you with convertibles and power seats might expect less.

nis350 02-27-2015 07:41 PM

Not necessarily. The longevity of the batteries also depend on how well they were maintained. Batteries with low charge all the time will deteriorate much sooner than the ones near full charge all the time.

Battery fluid level also makes a difference. However, I have replaced a 4 yrs old battery and the fluid level was within the range.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Night Fury (Post 3124218)
I just replaced my battery after a couple of struggle starts and two no starts. 4yrs 6mos 59K miles. I'm in a '10 Nismo, so those of you with convertibles and power seats might expect less.


FPenvy 10-08-2015 09:58 AM

so i'm now at 48k miles and still on oem battery from 2009.

I think it's age is showing now that morning temps have dropped here to 45-60 when I leave for work. struggled a bit the past few days. but once it's started battery seems to be full charge no issues. wonder if it's lost its cranking power or maybe my starter is weak? hmmm.

think i'm buying a optima yellow top to have for when my battery does puke.

SouthArk370Z 10-08-2015 11:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FPenvy (Post 3324880)
so i'm now at 48k miles and still on oem battery from 2009.

I think it's age is showing now that morning temps have dropped here to 45-60 when I leave for work. struggled a bit the past few days. but once it's started battery seems to be full charge no issues. wonder if it's lost its cranking power or maybe my starter is weak? hmmm.

think i'm buying a optima yellow top to have for when my battery does puke.

If it's acting weak at 45-60 F, it's going to be down-right anemic when you get down to 10 F or below. After 5 years, you've got all the good out of it. Replace it before it leaves you stranded in sub-freezing weather.

The starter may be the problem, but a five year old battery is the primary suspect, IMNSHO.

FPenvy 10-08-2015 11:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z (Post 3324914)
If it's acting weak at 45-60 F, it's going to be down-right anemic when you get down to 10 F or below. After 5 years, you've got all the good out of it. Replace it before it leaves you stranded in sub-freezing weather.

The starter may be the problem, but a five year old battery is the primary suspect, IMNSHO.

I don't drive it in winter. only got a few more weeks if that with the Z until it goes into hibernation mode. hence why i'm half tempted to just wait it out and replace in spring.

but for now it just seems the initial crank is the issue. it trips up for a second then once it passes that it goes fine. figure the battery was probably made in 2008 and then placed in the car it's now 7 years old lol

SouthArk370Z 10-08-2015 11:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FPenvy (Post 3324917)
I don't drive it in winter. only got a few more weeks if that with the Z until it goes into hibernation mode. hence why i'm half tempted to just wait it out and replace in spring.

but for now it just seems the initial crank is the issue. it trips up for a second then once it passes that it goes fine. figure the battery was probably made in 2008 and then placed in the car it's now 7 years old lol

Plates are probably "sulfated" and the battery won't put out as much current as it used to. Cranking the engine requires a lot of current; maintaining the electronic modules doesn't require much. Probably good enough to keep the ECM, et al, going if you crank it every now and then and run long enough to re-charge the battery.

A battery tender would be a good idea.

FPenvy 10-08-2015 11:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z (Post 3324941)
Plates are probably "sulfated" and the battery won't put out as much current as it used to. Cranking the engine requires a lot of current; maintaining the electronic modules doesn't require much. Probably good enough to keep the ECM, et al, going if you crank it every now and then and run long enough to re-charge the battery.

A battery tender would be a good idea.

yea not gonna lie there have been winters I only started it and let it run 2-3 times with no tender on it.....:wtf2:

SouthArk370Z 10-08-2015 11:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FPenvy (Post 3324942)
yea not gonna lie there have been winters I only started it and let it run 2-3 times with no tender on it.....:wtf2:

A new battery can often get by without a tender. Not so much one that is on it's last leg.

If it were me, I'd get a tender (so RAM doesn't get erased if the battery fails) and wait until Spring to get a new battery.

Of course, the ECM will recover from a total power loss and resetting the windows is very easy, so keeping it on a tender is not a big deal if you are going to replace the battery anyway. I'd definitely put the new battery on a tender next year, especially if you don't start and warm up frequently.


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