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Originally Posted by Lemers As my wife reminds me. It's a $38K car, don't get cheap when it comes to maintenance and upkeep. I got ya, but this isn't answering
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#1 (permalink) | |
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the 15,000 mile/12 month maintenance? Did they pay the dealer $260 (was it the same price?), did they go somewhere else, or did they just get an oil change? |
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#2 (permalink) |
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The Nissan dealer themselves told me when I had my 350Z back in 2006/07 that the 30,000 mile checkup is really the first REAL checkup that should be done. So that is why I gave you the above posting listing those things to look for when 15K rolls around so you don't have to do teh 15K checkup except for the oil change.
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#3 (permalink) | |
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#4 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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$260? Wow, now that's cheap. My dealership gave me a "recommended" maintenance guide for 15K and it had a quote of over $700. I was like...umm no thank you. I doubt I need to do all of that. I haven't looked myself but I think the thing I need the most are new air filters. Not sure if I really need to replace the cabin filter but they seemed to think so. They also said I need a $170 balance and alignment. It doesn't feel like I need an alignment but then again I could be wrong. Everything else I think is a complete waste of money. They can't do half the stuff on their list cuz it doesn't apply to the Z so why should have to pay all that money?
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#7 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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At 15k, I replaced the rear tires and got an oil change. If I hadn't already changed the diff and trans to synthetic at 11k miles, I would have done it at the 15k mark.
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Ray 2009 370Z Base Sport 6MT / 12.860 @ 109.09mph / 1.921 60ft / street tires official 1/4 mile track times |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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I have 25k miles on my Z. I get the oil changed every 3250 miles at the dealership with Nissan Ester oil. I replaced the tires to Nitto NT05 at 19k and have had the brakes checked at 22k since they started to sqeak a bit. Well the mechanic told me I have about 75% left on the pads and the rotors looked good. He also told me that some of the nissan brakes sqeak even though they are not wore out. My brakes do not sqeak real bad but thought I'd mention it. Over all have not had any big issues with the car to date, and I still have a stupid smile on my face after a some big pulls on the highway! ![]() ![]()
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#9 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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I wanted to go with synthetic in the trans for better shifting quality (stock was fine, no grinds or anything bad). And I already changed to the engine to synthetic so why not do the diff at the same time.
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Ray 2009 370Z Base Sport 6MT / 12.860 @ 109.09mph / 1.921 60ft / street tires official 1/4 mile track times |
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#10 (permalink) |
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I'm guessing half that cost is labor itself.... Where I'm at, labor rates are $80-$100 per hour
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I don't care how slow you want to drive; I encourage it. JUST GET THE HELL OUT OF THE PASSING LANE YOU TUCK FARD!!! |
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#11 (permalink) |
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When I got my 2009 in Feb this year it had 11,233 miles, the dealer changed the oil and filter but nothing else. I ended up changing the air filters & cabin filter. The brake and clutch fluids are still clear yellow. The Antifreeze is green? P/S fluid just looks like P/S fluid, black I guess. I got a 60 day warranty on the car. I still have the 5yr 60K mile drivetrain.
My question is, since the car is 4 years old but apparently has been garaged for most of it's life (looks brand new in and out, tires aren't even half gone), should I do the time based maintenance, or the mileage based maintenance? My gut instinct is mileage based...I love machines so I've crawled all underneath it and see no leaks, drips, worn bellows on any moving part so I'm satisfied that mechanically it's OK. PS: What's the view from the clutch view porthole thing? Can I see the CSC? Or just the teeth on the flywheel ![]() I would just prefer to change it if it's leaking....that way I can do it on my terms, not the emergency I would face without a DD. |
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