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15,000 Miles/12 months Scheduled Maintenance, what did you do?

Originally Posted by Auston I got ya, but this isn't answering my question. What have people done for the 15,000 mile/12 month maintenance? Did they pay the dealer $260 (was

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Old 05-10-2010, 03:22 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Auston View Post
I got ya, but this isn't answering my question. What have people done for
the 15,000 mile/12 month maintenance? Did they pay the dealer $260
(was it the same price?), did they go somewhere else, or did they just get
an oil change?
To hell w/ the dealer.
At 15k, I replaced the rear tires and got an oil change. If I hadn't already changed the diff and trans to synthetic at 11k miles, I would have done it at the 15k mark.
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Old 05-11-2010, 03:29 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by tranceformer View Post
To hell w/ the dealer.
At 15k, I replaced the rear tires and got an oil change. If I hadn't already changed the diff and trans to synthetic at 11k miles, I would have done it at the 15k mark.
Any reason why you changed your trans and diff fluid to synthetic so early at 11k?

I have 25k miles on my Z. I get the oil changed every 3250 miles at the dealership with Nissan Ester oil. I replaced the tires to Nitto NT05 at 19k and have had the brakes checked at 22k since they started to sqeak a bit. Well the mechanic told me I have about 75% left on the pads and the rotors looked good. He also told me that some of the nissan brakes sqeak even though they are not wore out. My brakes do not sqeak real bad but thought I'd mention it. Over all have not had any big issues with the car to date, and I still have a stupid smile on my face after a some big pulls on the highway!
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Old 05-11-2010, 03:38 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Any reason why you changed your trans and diff fluid to synthetic so early at 11k?
I wanted to go with synthetic in the trans for better shifting quality (stock was fine, no grinds or anything bad). And I already changed to the engine to synthetic so why not do the diff at the same time.
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Old 06-16-2010, 12:56 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I just hit 10K miles, have changed the oil twice (once at 3k and once at 7500 to put on the oil cooler). I've also changed the diff and tranny fluids and put in a cabin filter.

As far as having the dealership look at the car - I don't see a reason to do so unless she's acting odd or reaches 30k miles. Well, if you're taking care of the smaller maintenance items.

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Old 09-07-2010, 06:43 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Just get the oil changed man. $260 is highway robbery.
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Old 01-24-2011, 04:22 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I got robbed then............
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Old 02-02-2011, 02:04 PM   #22 (permalink)
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I personally just take mine to Quaker State for most of the maintenance items. Unless you have some type of computer problem or something major - I've always just done the basics. If it aint broke don't fix it.

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Old 02-02-2011, 02:22 PM   #23 (permalink)
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You don't have to have the dealer do those checks. I have our club sponsor mechanic do them and he signs off with with company's name, date, etc for a lot less money plus club discount on parts and labor.
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Old 04-21-2011, 05:04 PM   #24 (permalink)
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I bought a service contract from the dealer so the 15K service is included in the price. I don't think that they really do anything but change the oil & filter and give the car a quick once over. If I hadn't bought the contract I just would change the oil and filter myself.
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Old 04-26-2011, 08:35 AM   #25 (permalink)
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yeah, for 15k mile service im about to change the diff fluid and do oil change. Everything else pretty much works well / already looked at.

I went with redline diff fluid back at 4-5k mile marker ( I forget) so i figure just gonna change it every 15k.
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Old 05-21-2011, 11:40 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Now 30K is coming up next
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Old 05-22-2011, 07:05 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Now 30K is coming up next
me too... i'm going to need a new set of rear tires again. this will be my 3rd set.
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Old 08-19-2012, 06:00 PM   #28 (permalink)
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I just had my 9k done, my next oil change is at about 13k, and the tech said thats pretty much my 15k maintenance. I have to change my air cabin microfilter, radiator conditioner, oil, and couple other things. Hes charging me $193. But he did not give me a long list of checks like you have. Did you end up doing the 15k maintenance? or did you just do oil?
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Old 01-06-2013, 12:43 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZKindaGuy View Post
OK let's go through each and see what you can do instead of the dealer and save the cash:

❏ Replace engine oil and filter [ester oil] - Give this to the dealer to do.
❏ Inspect the following:
__ Axle & suspension parts - Is the car bouncing wildliy or make and creaking sounds when you go over a speed bump? If not then the axle and suspension are fine.

__ Brake lines & cables- Do the brakes work to stop the car without putting your foot to the floor? Do you hear any grinding or see scarring on the discs? Any oil puddles on the floor under the car?


__ Brake pads, rotors, drums & linings - If the brakes stop the car and pedal doesn't have to be pressed to the floor, no grinding sounds when brakes are applied and no scarring lines in the discs, and brake pad is still visible at least by 1/8inch then the brakes are fine.

__ Cruise control vacuum hoses - If cruise control works then you don't have any vacuum hose problems.

__ Differential oil 2 - Shifting is smooth and no grinding, bumping or ratlle from rear then your diferrential is OK.

__ Exhaust system - Exhaust sound smooth as the day you first bought the car. No noticeable loss of power or torque. No sonds coming from anywhere before the tips. Then the exhaust is OK.

__ Front suspension ball joints - No clunking, thumping or vibration felt through the steering wheel or audibly heard when making turns then ball joints are OK.

__ Manual transmission oil - Car shifts smoothly and doesn't have trouble getting into gear or freeze into a gear then the transmissionis OK.

__ Steering gear and linkage - Car goes straight, right or left when the steering wheel is turned into those respective directions then the steering linkage if alright.

__ Steering linkage ball joints - No vibration or grinding sound then the steering linkage ball joints are OK.

There now you don't need the dealer involved in the check except maybe for changing the oil. And you just saved about $190.00.
Thanks for that Looks like I'll just need an oil change then. I'm at about 20K right now, myself
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Old 01-07-2013, 11:29 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Auston View Post
Now 30K is coming up next
Did you go to the dealer for this? If so, what did they do and what did you pay? I just hit 30K and bought fluids for Transmission, Rear Diff, Power Steering, Clutch, and Brake. I'm still considering letting the dealer inspect it for a 30K mile check up. Though I do wonder what they'd say when I tell them no fluids need replacing.
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