Car won’t crank...???

[Supermoto25]

2012 370z Nismo with 27k miles. Car it’s been parked lately and not used as much as I used to due to remote work. Friday I started the car and it barely cranked as the battery was low on voltage. I just need to move out of my garage for a second so i left it idling and hooked a portable air compressor to the 12v plug in the cars center console to fill my bicycle tire. After doing so I went inside the house and when i came out the car had shut off. I started the car again and it cranked for a few seconds but the revs were barely around 400rpm and stalled (car felt like a carburetor car flooded). Now when I try to start him it cycles the engine but it won’t cranked. I pulled the MAFS and cleaned both with the spray solution and put them back on and tried resetting the ecu and also the other key and still no luck. I plugged a Zurich ZR4 to the OBD port and there were no codes but the smog status light lit yellow saying the following “There’s a possible problem. A pending DTC is present and/or some of the vehicle’s emission monitors have not run their diagnostic testing”. I thought to pull the throttles to clean them also but after pulling the MAFS and seeing them almost clean I decided to wait before doing so. I do have the Nismo Cold Air Intakes. Need some help please. Any input is deeply appreciated. Thanks ahead.

[SouthArk370Z]

Get your battery tested.

The emissions monitor was reset when you reset the ECM. You will need to go through several drive cycles before it will say it's ready.

[Ghostvette]

Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z

Get your battery tested.

The emissions monitor was reset when you reset the ECM. You will need to go through several drive cycles before it will say it's ready.

Like SouthArk said. If that is the original battery, it's shot and needs to be replaced. Dead batteries do strange things to electrical systems. Theoretically, the alternator should keep the car running, but that is not always the case. I'll wager that if you replace the battery, the car will run fine. The pending DTCs will go away once you drive the car. Good luck

[Supermoto25]

Not worry about erasing the code but the fact the car doesn’t starts. Battery is not the issue as its a yellow top optima and it barely has two years. It cycles the car well it just doesn’t turn on. I checked with multimeter and have it plugged to a smart charger now however even with the battery charged the car doesn’t crank.

[Ghostvette]

Originally Posted by Supermoto25

Not worry about erasing the code but the fact the car doesn’t starts. Battery is not the issue as its a yellow top optima and it barely has two years. It cycles the car well it just doesn’t turn on. I checked with multimeter and have it plugged to a smart charger now however even with the battery charged the car doesn’t crank.

Optima batteries have to be recharged with an Optima charger, otherwise they don't charge correctly. Two things will cause a 'crank, no start'. 1)no fuel & 2) no spark. The spark requires a signal from the crank sensor to the ECU and for the other, well, the fuel pump has to turn on. Check the FSM (link in my sig) for the fuses & relays that control the fuel pump and make sure you didn't pop a fuse for the ECU. The crank sensor is down by the starter, so based on mileage, it's unlikely that the crank sensor is bad.

Silly question, but are you sure you have fuel? Gas gauges can be notoriously incorrect....

[Supermoto25]

Yes sir, car is half tank full. I can hear the fuel pump activates. I already check all the fueses and are good. The cluster don’t have a check engine however it does show the service engine soon and it blinks 5 times before is comes steady on. Thinking it might be a misfire? Maybe replacing the plugs? I heard that if the car while idling sense low voltage the fuel injectors sends more fuel and probably why it stall on me damaging the plugs. IDK. So far thinking about removing the throttles and clean them also as I plan to replace the plugs.... any inputs on this is appreciated.

[POS VETT]

A few years ago, something like this happened to my '11. It wouldn't crank, but it would start when push-started. The first time it happened when it was driven to a store and when leaving the starter motor wouldn't energize (not a bad solenoid).

As it turned out, there is a fuse/fusible link marked ignition that was blown. I can't remember the location, it may be in the one inside the battery compartment.

[Supermoto25]

Thanks for your input but i already check all the fuses and they are good.

[SouthArk370Z]

The FSM has a lot of valuable troubleshooting info, wiring diagrams, etc. Link in my sig.

[Spooler]

Did you check and see if you have gas in the car? May want to put 5 gallons in it, the gauges can have issues and the top hat of the fuel pump canister can break also. Just sayin.

[sportsman2003]

So....the car is "cranking"? There is a difference in "cranking" and not cranking.
If the car won't "crank" that tells us the engine will not turn over with the starter.

If the car is "cranking" that tells us the car will turn over with the starter.

If the car will "crank" and not start that is a whole different set of issues than the other.

Not "cranking" is nearly always a voltage/electrical problem.

A car that "cranks" and doesn't start could be more involved.

I would start with the simple things first. Listen to Spooler buy five gallons and poor it in the tank just to be sure your gauge isn't stuck and go from there.

[Supermoto25]

Sorry for the confusion created. The car cranks but doesn’t start. Updates so far; I plugged a “Bluedriver” (Bluetooth obd scanner) it didn’t show DTC’s however it recognized a U1000 or communication error between system control modules. Now I’m worry it might be the ECU got messed up may be because of the battery (which was indeed bad because I took it to the auto parts to be scanned and got it replaced) and or perhaps after I try to jumped start the car since I’ve heard bad things happened to modern vehicles ECU if trying to jump start them. Still I went and got the battery replaced with a new one, installed the new battery and the obd scanner once again to erased the codes and try to start it again one more time but NO LUCK. Proceeded to remove the intake and plenum to replace the plugs and clean the throttles. Noticed I could smell gas on plugs after removed. Not saying these were flooded with gas but i could smell it and the plugs were moist. That said I believe gas is been delivered but there’s no spark to ignite. Im going to ordered the plugs as they don’t have them in stock, clean the throttles and MAF’s to then proceed resetting the ECU and verifying the fuses once again, lastly dump 2 gallons of fuel before trying again. Hope it starts; if not then maybe the crank position sensor next or the cam position sensors???? I’ll hate to think it might be the ECU needing to be reprogrammed as I had it flashed with Uprev and most likely will lose the tuning. Without to mentioned ILL HATE TO TAKE IT TO THE DEALER if that’s the only choice. Not only because they will charge and arm and leg and possible talk nonsense blaming the ECU did not have the factory tune but also start throwing things around and messing my car up. Thoughts or comments are appreciated guys.

[Ghostvette]

Crank position sensor will prevent it from starting. You might inspect the wiring between the sensor and where it goes into the harness. You might have had a rodent problem. They enjoy chewing on things they are not supposed to. It might not be a bad idea to inspect the wiring under the engine cover while you have it off.