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I called Nissan. They said no recalls for the Key/steering issue on my 2010 Z. That's good, I haven't had the problems mentioned here. |
Problem covered by recall.
I just got a call from the dealership. I had the same problem as everyone else. Intelligent Key fail light came on. Car would not start or even go into accessory mode. Towed to dealership. It was the steering wheel lock solenioid (no surprise there). Dealership said it is covered by a recall.
I'm not an attorney but it seems you guys who paid big $'s to get it fixed before the recall should have a good case to demand reimbursement from Nissan. |
Hey Guys,
Let me add to the saga of stories on this thread. When I left for work yesterday morning, I noticed my car was hesitating/stumbling/misfiring as I accelerated out of my neighborhood. The symptoms were very similar to that of a failing/failed coil-pack. I proceeded to drive the car back home and park it in the garage. Then I took another car to work. When I came home after work to try to diagnose the issue, my car wouldn't start at all. I had AAA tow my car out of my garage to a local dealer that I have been dealing with for a while. This same dealer had performed the famous steering lock recall that many of you have talked about. The symptoms of my car are that it locks and unlocks with the remote (replaced with new battery). When you get in the car and you try to start it, it will not get past the "ACC" mode of ignition. Also, a yellow key shows up on the left of the instrument cluster. The dealership called me back today and said they think its the IPDM (intelligent power distribution module). It is going to cost me a little under $1,200 to fix! The car is a 2009 with 51K so it is out of warranty. After doing some research on the internet, it seems like the steering lock and the IPDM has failed on many Nissan models including the 370Z for the 2007-2009 years. Nissan should honor the replacement of the steering lock and the IPDM as a combined recall. The dealership believes that the misfiring I was experiencing was connected with the failing IPDM. If that is the case, this is also a safety issue. I called Nissan consumer affairs and filed a complaint and I should get a call on Monday. I will let you all know what they say. This 370Z was my dream car. However, in my 4 years of ownership, I have had the following issues: excessive oil consumption resulting in a short block replacement and then a long block when that didn't work, sticking clutch pedal, and now this IPDM issue. The dream has turned into a nightmare and I am starting to look into a replacement vehicle. Anyhow, I am looking for some kind of resolution from Nissan or else I am going to the BBB. |
Avant, what a nightmare! Sounds like u got a lemon. My 2010 has been perfect. The only problem was my key fob battery low which would not allow the car to start. Fortunately I figured that one out on my own. If it were me, i'd get rid of that vehicle! Good luck.
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Add my 2010 nismo to the thread. Died at lunch today. Glad there is a recall to fix the issue.
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Sorry to hear that. Nissan's corporate consumer affairs office called me back saying that they would pay $340 of my bill or about 30% of it equivalent to just the labor portion. Not a full reimbursement but I will take it.
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I was told my 2 months new to me 2010 roadster had an open recall for the lock. I did not have any problems with it but brought it in last week. The light has been on since and I have brought it back twice already this week. They say there are no codes so it is working right, argh! Lesson learned- if it ain't broke don't fix it. I think I have to call Nissan tomorrow.
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James |
Im a bit confused by this thread, the "problem" seems to be all over the place, but the symptom is consistent. Its been about 3 weeks since that retarded a55 key light turned on in my car. Its on all the time, but ive never had any issues locking, unlocking, steering wheel, or starting the car. Is it inevitably going to happen? Or does it have different causes? I changed my key bat last night, no better. You may also notice i have recently posted in the SMODE thread with my SMODE randomly failing with no reason "3 times now" over the past few months. Could this all be related in one big ****** up ECU issue?
Im in PA on vacation so if the car fails here there isnt much i can do. I have no tint, no stupid aftermarket alarm, and the only mod on the car was an exhast "no tune" have other parts, but no money to install. Is it 100% going to fail? Its been almost a month since that small orange key light came on on the left side console. |
update. on the trip home last night i found the cruise control doesnt work anymore. it turns on and indicates, but it wont set a speed, nor will the accelerate/decelerate controls work. all these issues together point to anything?
Im genuinely concerned with this car. what a colossal piece of ****, even my 12 year old beat to hell 200k mile WRX EVERY SINGLE THING in the car worked and never failed. This cars 2 years old with 15k miles. What if I have a crash and the airbags fail? What if it randomly leaves me stranded. Its gotten nothing but TLC since it rolled off the showroom and its caused nothing but problems. |
A colossal POS because the key light is on and cruise disabled? That might be a little dramatic. :) Just take it to Nissan, its probably something small and stupid. 2 years old = warranty.
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no, because of failed CSC twice. failed SRM 3 times, it rattles and creaks like a 35 year old car, and now "little stupid" problems with the electrics. It would be dramatic if I didnt own 3-4 cars before this one that were far older with more miles and less problems. If anyone is interested in inheriting this little troublemaker by all means, its for sale for what I owe.
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Guess you just got a bad one! 61,000 miles and 5+ years on mine, never had anything go out even with all the abuse and added power.
So how did SRM fail? How did they fix it? Maybe you just have a faulty clutch switch since your SRM and cruise is giving you problem. Again, probably just a really small problem that hasnt been resolved. Engine control functions such as cruise and SRM dont really have a failure point, they are simply a matter of programming... but if a sensor or switch is giving the system bad information, then they will not function correctly. |
true, I thought so too. But its been a million different "causes" according to the stealership. Im starting to think most of their mechs have no idea about the 370z. I feel bad for GTR owners, dropping my car off there would be enough to keep me awake at night.
It fails just by... randomly stopped working. Over the past few months SMODE turns on in my left console and the "S" turns off next to my gear indicator. If I press the Smode button it flashes on the console again and beeps, not turning on. Twice it was quite a dangerous event as it happened during downshifts and failed to match the revs with road speed causing me to fry some clutch disk.... luckily it didnt lock up the rear and spin me out. This would be a surprising event for any 370 owner used to using SRM, since you just select a gear and let off the clutch.... not expecting your RPM to drop to idle while going 50 mph before letting out. It happens at complete random, once it happened as I had been cruising for about 80 miles in 6th at about 75. Didnt touch it, just... BEEP SMODE. No reason at all. Each time I pulled off the road and did an ECU reset and its fine for an undetermined amount of time. As for the CSC thing...... we all know that issue so theres no need to get into it. Last time I was there they said all the sensors were "fine" I would bet my nuts they dont even know where they ARE, let alone actually checked them. If anything they just hooked up a OBD and HERPADERPED all the way to the uneducated conclusion that nothings wrong. Yep, its my imagination lol. |
As per phunk, it's probably an easy problem to fix ... but my experience with Nissan service matched yours - they don't seem to have the slightest idea what they are doing.
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My SMode and cruise didn't work once but it was because I had been screwing around with the clutch pedal travel. It hurt my brain at first and then it just came to me. There are limit switches at the top and bottom of the pedal travel. My screwing around made it so that my top limit switch wasn't being fully engaged. The programming kills cruise if the clutch isn't up, so it didn't work at all cause the ecu thought I was riding the clutch. SRM defaulted as well, because it realized something was wrong because it was being told the clutch was constantly depressed. I was getting some message or something on the display as well. The SMode didn't default for literally a day or two after the adjusting... It worked normal and then boom just stopped. The cruise didn't work immediately but I didn't notice right away. Once I readjusted the switch and reset battery all problems fixed for good.
This is why i mentioned your clutch switch! Maybe it's the same thing.. Either bad switch or just out of adjustment. |
Omg.... thank you... i ****** with the clutch peddle too, reading somewhere it could have some advantage that i cant even remember? Clatter maybe? **** i dont even remember why.... maybe to get a wider feeling engagement point? Whatever.... i will put it back to the way ity was and see if its fixed.
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Just look around down there with a light and you will see the switches. The one at the top of the travel is probably not being pushed in far enough when you let off the pedal. You can either adjust the pedal back to how it was, or you can loosen the adjusting nut on the switch and thread the switch down further so it gets more push. If you adjust the switch, I think you have to unplug the connector on it because the wiring is too short to be twisting around in circles.
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BTW my clutch adjustment that I was changing was my RJM adjustable pedal ratio.
Be aware that if you are only adjusting the connecting rod for the master cylinder piston or the pedal stops that you need to be very careful about how its done. If you have it adjusted for constant hydraulic pressure it can cause rapid wear of the slave cylinders release bearing, wear on the crankshaft thrust washers, and kill the clutch quickly if its not getting proper clamping force due to constant hydraulic pressure. |
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Np. But there is a way to permanently disable it now if urs is working even intermittently.
If broken, wack it a few times with a light hammer when your car battery is fully charged. Search brown wire and fuse pull. |
If anyone is keeping tally. I have a 2011 370z (currently at 33K miles) that came with the D steering wheel lock from factory. Light came on but I was still able to start. They replaced it with another D. They also replaced my cruise control clutch switch as that was failing. So not sure if the lock was covered by Nissan or it was lumped into my $50 co pay for the cruise switch as I thought my co pay was per item. But I'm not going to argue if they want to charge me less :)
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Steering Lock Solenoid/Intelligent Key Warning Light
So, unfortunately, I fell victim to the Intelligent key warning light and my car wouldn't start. My car is a 2010Z with only 31k and it's been running perfectly up until this happened. I had to have my car towed and have Nissan take care of the work for a whopping $1500. Was not happy about that, as I'm sure you can understand. One thing I did, and I encourage all of you that runs into this problem to do the same, is to go to NHTSA.gov (National Highway Traffic Safety Administration) Click on Vehicle Safety than scroll down to Recalls & Defects and fill out a complaint. I found that I wasn't the first (and hopefully not the last) person to fill out a complaint for this problem. If enough people do it than hopefully a recall will be set up. And if your like me and you've already paid for this problem, you'll get your money back. Hope this helps! :iagree:
:driving: |
There is a recall to get it fixed last that I remembered.
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I ran into this issue just recently on my 2010 370 convertible. never had a problem and 78,000 miles on it. I parked the car recently close to the building to avoid direct sun throughout the day but a torrential rain came that afternoon and the car was then parked under a water fall.
I moved it to prevent flooding but on the way home I noticed this Key light by my fuel guage came on and I started having starting issues. I read all these posts about the steering lock and the IPDM and the horror stories and thought to myself geeeze that is an expensive repair at the dealer. My lock was working as I could hear the mechanism work under the dash but yet the light was on and push the button and no crank. I found that if I got in the car and held the brake and poked the button one time from the get go with the brake applied it would crank and start and then the light would come on for the key. If I shut it off and tried again it would not start. Recycled everything form a start point of getting in the car and pressed the brake and poked the button one time it would start. The key being in the fob holder had no bearing on it whatsoever. I decided to go to the IPDM module first since it was exposed to all that rain water hammering my windshield and going down the back side of the hood. As I was removing it I shook it and water was coming from it. I removed it and disconnected all connectors. separated it from the black shield cover and then removed all the fuses and relays laying them out in order according to location. I pried the white box apart and cleaned it down with electric cleaner both on the circuit board as well as the pin sockets and inspected for damaged pins and solder joints on the board. Some of the sockets appeared to have mildew traces and the fuses appeared to have a white corrosion scale on them and I assume some of it was from natural humidity over time. I set the circuit board on a towel on a oven pan and set the temp on my oven to 280 degrees and let it warm up. Turned the oven off and inserted the pan in the oven for 15 minutes to dry the circuit board. Removed and reinstalled all fuses, relays in original position. reinstalled in the car and tested and the light is out now and everything is working fine. If the steering lock mechanism is working and you can hear it and your light is on and the engine has cranking issues I would highly recommend removing and cleaning the IPDM as well as all wire connections and fuses with electrical cleaner. just saved about 700.00 at the stealer from what I have been reading about this issue. I drove it into work 50 miles one way this morning and the light remained out the whole time and it fired right back up after getting here. the light was coming after about 5 miles of driving before but sometimes sooner and sometimes later as whatever connection issue in the IPDM was intermittent. Just clean it up as best you can and dry it and reinstall. Took me about 2 hours but saved me alot. Just a suggestion. |
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It's a recall. Dealer will replace for free. |
a new battery will cure a myriad of problems,,cheap fix if it works..
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Hey guys. So it looks like I have this problem also. I stopped my car and talked to a friend for fifteen minutes and when I went out and tried to start the car, nothing. The key light was on. After fussing with it for a while and not getting anywhere, I had to have it towed home.
So what do I need to do at this point? Is this a recall issue? What does IPDM stand for? Sorry I'm late to this and haven't had time to read everything in detail yet. Thanks in advance for your help! |
Hi everyone, had this problem happen to me last night on my 2012 model. I knew about the issue but because the general consensus is that 2012 models onwards had the lock removed, I never even checked to make sure. Had to leave the car at work overnight but performed the Fuse removal this morning. The car was able to be started after a few hits with a hammer.
Wanted to say a huge thanks to this Forum and everybody that has contributed to figuring out a fix for this issue as I definitely didnt want to spend thousands of dollars at the dealer ( australian prices are even worse). Also wanted to emphasise that even though 2012 built Z's are apparently not meant to have a steering lock, do yourself a favour and check if you own one. Save yourself the heartache and spend 20 mins beong proactive. Thanks again to everyone involved |
What’s up everyone, add one more to the list. Same thing happened to me early this morning while at the gas station. Pulled in to fill up and as soon as I finished I noticed the “no key” light on. I’ve inserted both key fobs into the slot with no success coming from either. I then got new batteries and still no success. Had to wait about 2 hours for a tow.
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I currently have the key warning light showing for the past 2 months without any problems starting the car. Does anyone think I need to do anything about it ? Curiously I also lost my cruise control around that time. Any solutions for this problems ?
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So, it finally happened. My original SLU failed last Thursday (last week). I had it towed to the stealership where my car goes for services. Next day I get a call from my service advisor advising me that the SLU had failed and needed to be replaced. Fine, I'll pay to play. The part comes in the following Monday. I get a call from my service advisor saying the car is ready. I drive home no problem. I drive it on Tuesday no problem. I drive on Wednesday no problem. I drive to the grocery store on Thursday (yesterday), went in to grab a few things, come out, start up the car, the intelligent key system warning light comes on and the car won't start. The service department supposedly replaced the orignal SLU with the latest and greatest (sic) SLU model #48700-9N00B. That's gotta be a record. Failure a few days later after replacement. Methinks they didn't replace the SLU or they received a lemon SLU from Nissan's warehouse. Now, let's see if the stealership will reimburse me for the second towing charge. Waiting for them to "fix" the problem so I can sell the car. Did anyone else beat me for having a second failure within four days since replacement??
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My Turn
Ran in to get some smokes and out in 5 minutes. Push Start and nothing happens. It's at the dealer now. 2011 370Z coupe.
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Yep. Steering wheel lock was the culprit. $500 for the part and another $600 in labor from the dealer. There outa be a law.
The service guy thanked me profusely for my business. Yeah. |
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Wasn’t there a recall for this? Should have been free. |
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