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Drying convertible topic after washing car

Folks, how are people drying their top after washing the car? If I use a towel, I get "fuzzy" bits of towel left behind on the top. If I don't

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Old 10-13-2014, 11:21 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Drying convertible topic after washing car

Folks, how are people drying their top after washing the car?

If I use a towel, I get "fuzzy" bits of towel left behind on the top. If I don't dry the top, I get water marks.

I really don't feel like getting out a leaf blower or driving the car to knock off the water.

Any advice?
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Old 10-13-2014, 11:29 AM   #2 (permalink)
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With a proper drying towel. If your towel is leaving "fuzzy" bits behind, you are using the wrong kind of towel.

One example of a proper towel would be the Master Clean waffle weaves towels found at The Rag Company (16 x 24 MASTER CLEAN)
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Old 10-13-2014, 05:11 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I used to use a chamois and just pulled it across the roof. A cotton bath towel works too. Use a lint roller to get the top clean of any "fuzzies".
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Old 10-14-2014, 04:53 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Synthetic Chamois, Absorber brand. I also treat with Ragtop so water tends to bead nicely.

- b
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Old 10-14-2014, 08:10 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Hope you guys don't use those same towels on your paint. They're likely leaving scratches behind
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Old 10-15-2014, 08:05 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I use the Mothers Microfiber drying towel - glass, then paint, then roof

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Old 10-15-2014, 08:56 PM   #7 (permalink)
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If I use a towel on the top I blot, never rub.

I usually take it straight to the Interstate, which is just a couple of blocks away, and do a couple of miles at prevailing speed (70-75), which knocks the water off the paint and dries the top. I then use Meguiars detailing spray on the paint. Other than that I only touch the paint with a microfiber towel when I use a spray cleaner for motorcycles to get the occasional bird dropping off, and that's just on the spot.

I double wax the paint twice a year - Meguiars.

I treat the top with 303 fabric waterproofing twice a year - I use a paint brush rather than spraying it on. Takes more, works better, no overspray. I go over the top twice each time.

So far this has worked well for me.
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Old 10-18-2014, 08:28 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bvl View Post
I also treat with Ragtop so water tends to bead nicely.

- b
I'm thoroughly confused by the RaggTopp product. I never used anything on my 2010, but recently heard about this stuff. Saw a lot of great reviews/recommendations and decided to try in on the 2013 I just picked up. Watched several how-to videos and followed all the directions. Cleaned the top with the cleaner and soft brush...rinsed completely and let air-dry overnight. Next afternoon, I applied three coats, each coat I let dry in the sun 10-15 minutes, then pulled back in the shade to apply the next coat. Top looked great, though I had to spend the next hour trying to get the "easy to remove" overspray off my windows. (If I ever use the stuff again, I'll mask the whole frickin car next time). I was cool with all the effort as long as it worked well, but then I was shocked that a week later when I hit the car with the hose to wash it, the top soaked in water just like I'd never applied anything to it. No beading at all. WTF? All that work for nothing?

From all the glowing reviews, I can only assume I did something wrong, but I'm at a loss as to what.

EDIT...Apologies to the OP...this probably wasnt the best place for the rant...guess seeing the product mentioned kindled my frustration. For drying, I've always tended to wash mine in the evening, so I just let the top air dry overnight, rather than trying to dry it with anything. Also, the lint roller mentioned above is a must-have for getting rid of the "fuzzies"! They make a "giant" size that works great: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Evercare-T...oller/21002446

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Old 10-20-2014, 09:03 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bvl View Post
Synthetic Chamois, Absorber brand. I also treat with Ragtop so water tends to bead nicely.

- b
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Old 12-04-2014, 01:51 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Electric leaf blower used for entire car. Pushes the water to the bottom edges and then out. I work front to back.
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Old 01-08-2015, 07:56 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I dry my convertible top by blotting it; I have “The Absorber Synthetic Drying Chamois”. This is like a towel that acts like a sponge. You can simplly ring it out. I love it.

Also, I use 303 Products 30520 Convertible Fabric Top Cleaning and Care Kit- this make the water bead and it keep the top looking black and new.

P.S. the lint roller is an excellent way to have the top completely clean prior to putting on the protestant fabric guard.

http://www.amazon.com/Absorber-Synthetic-Drying-Chamois-Natural/dp/B0000AY69V/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420768300&sr=8-1&keywords=Absorber+Synthetic+Drying+Chamois

http://www.amazon.com/303-Products-3...g+and+Care+Kit

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Old 03-16-2015, 10:33 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Same here. A week after I treated it I had some bird crap on my top and hit it with my washing mitt dipped in soapy water. Afterward it was like I had never used Ragg Topp. It's too much work for basically no return. Anyone else have a better product/?

EDIT: guess I stepped on the OP too. I blot the top with a regular beach towel.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DWS44 View Post
I'm thoroughly confused by the RaggTopp product. I never used anything on my 2010, but recently heard about this stuff. Saw a lot of great reviews/recommendations and decided to try in on the 2013 I just picked up. Watched several how-to videos and followed all the directions. Cleaned the top with the cleaner and soft brush...rinsed completely and let air-dry overnight. Next afternoon, I applied three coats, each coat I let dry in the sun 10-15 minutes, then pulled back in the shade to apply the next coat. Top looked great, though I had to spend the next hour trying to get the "easy to remove" overspray off my windows. (If I ever use the stuff again, I'll mask the whole frickin car next time). I was cool with all the effort as long as it worked well, but then I was shocked that a week later when I hit the car with the hose to wash it, the top soaked in water just like I'd never applied anything to it. No beading at all. WTF? All that work for nothing?

From all the glowing reviews, I can only assume I did something wrong, but I'm at a loss as to what.

EDIT...Apologies to the OP...this probably wasnt the best place for the rant...guess seeing the product mentioned kindled my frustration. For drying, I've always tended to wash mine in the evening, so I just let the top air dry overnight, rather than trying to dry it with anything. Also, the lint roller mentioned above is a must-have for getting rid of the "fuzzies"! They make a "giant" size that works great: Evercare T-Handle Pet Lint Roller - Walmart.com
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Old 03-20-2015, 06:34 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 10MPlayer View Post
Anyone else have a better product?
As I've mentioned up-thread, I use 303 fabric treatment (I stress fabric because they make a plastic treatment too) twice a year. I put it on with a cheap paint brush - no overspray, heavier treatment. It appears to be oil based, and the water beads like on a good wax job. Right now it's been about six months and the water isn't beading, but it's time for a treatment.

The first time around I got the kit, which has the cleaner and treatment. I still have cleaner left. I use it for spots and a cleaning immediately before treatment.

I have never had problems cleaning bird droppings off the top. I've used 303 for three full years now, and am still completely satisfied.
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Old 03-24-2015, 09:38 PM   #14 (permalink)
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303 and good layering will last a while, can't comment on raggtop. It was the first one I was going to purchase but, there was a video on you tube comparing the two products. The 303 beads like crazy after numerous washes. No bird poop tho, thank godness.
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