Crush Washer?

GZ3 · 06-22-2015, 11:12 PM

yup everytime...it will crush into place

Spooler · 06-22-2015, 11:40 PM

How are you placing the copper wash on the drain plug?

SINISTER · 03-23-2017, 07:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vtec to vvel

For those that DIY oil changes, whenever you replace the copper o-ring on the drain plug, do you have a hard time getting it to go all the way down? Most of the time, it will go down to the second to last thread, but not completely down to the bottom of the bolt?

If you twist it on you can get it right to the bottom..but it yea second to last thread is pretty much right there.

ZoomZ · 04-24-2017, 12:06 PM

There is the right way and then there's the service manual way.

Note Image at top left. *1 and note C. Where 'C' is stated as oil pan side.

Oil pan 50.jpg

2011 Nismo#91 · 06-23-2015, 07:19 AM

I don't use any washer and have no issues. Awhile back I just installed a valve and was done with it. Also a side note magnets don't seem to do much, from the start I did UOA for all my oil changes and over the course of 7 changes iron levels did not drop off any more quickly then the norm.

kenchan · 06-23-2015, 10:33 AM

i rather re-use the old washer vs not using any. no need to add unnecessary wear from friction.

Spooler · 06-23-2015, 11:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenchan

i rather re-use the old washer vs not using any. no need to add unnecessary wear from friction.

You can reuse them for years. The issue comes when the copper washer get's scared from dirt or the friction over the years. You just need to inspect it and be very clean at every oil change with the plug and pan surface. The copper washer acutally goes face up on the drain plug. Twist it on the wrong way and it will not bottom out on the plug.

kenchan · 06-23-2015, 01:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spooler

You can reuse them for years. The issue comes when the copper washer get's scared from dirt or the friction over the years. You just need to inspect it and be very clean at every oil change with the plug and pan surface. The copper washer acutally goes face up on the drain plug. Twist it on the wrong way and it will not bottom out on the plug.

yah, i just replace it each time. why not, i have a bunch of them already.

nis350 · 06-23-2015, 09:31 PM

yeah.. same here. they are very cheap.

I think the real purpose is that the washer would crush and provide proper seal when torque to factory spec. You may have to tighten down more with an already crushed washer and I have heard people stripping the oil pan from too much torque on the drain bolt.

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenchan

yah, i just replace it each time. why not, i have a bunch of them already.

2011 Nismo#91 · 06-23-2015, 12:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenchan

i rather re-use the old washer vs not using any. no need to add unnecessary wear from friction.

If you remove enough metal to make a difference in 100 oil changes (300,000 miles) to weaken the structure......

kenchan · 06-23-2015, 01:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2011 Nismo#91

If you remove enough metal to make a difference in 100 oil changes (300,000 miles) to weaken the structure......

i suppose you can go commando if u want. i prefer to do it the normal way...especially knowing that surface should not be scratched by the plug.
hell go ahead and use ur pliers to remove your lug nuts. im sure it can be done.

Spooler · 06-23-2015, 01:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenchan

i suppose you can go commando if u want. i prefer to do it the normal way...especially knowing that surface should not be scratched by the plug.
hell go ahead and use ur pliers to remove your lug nuts. im sure it can be done.

It's visegrips on the oil drain plug. God I have seen a many.

2011 Nismo#91 · 06-24-2015, 12:11 PM

vtec to vvel · 06-24-2015, 12:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2011 Nismo#91

what am i looking at here?

Spooler · 06-24-2015, 12:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vtec to vvel

what am i looking at here?

Looks like a Fumoto oil drain valve.

06-22-2015, 11:12 PM	#1 (permalink)
GZ3 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: SATX Posts: 3,296 Drives: Z Rep Power: 22	yup everytime...it will crush into place __________________ 09 GT-R 12' 370Z 7AT HANDED DOWN 12'+13' 5.0 SOLD

06-23-2015, 07:19 AM	#5 (permalink)
2011 Nismo#91 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: NJ Posts: 2,412 Drives: slowly Rep Power: 40570	I don't use any washer and have no issues. Awhile back I just installed a valve and was done with it. Also a side note magnets don't seem to do much, from the start I did UOA for all my oil changes and over the course of 7 changes iron levels did not drop off any more quickly then the norm. KoolKarmaJoe likes this.

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06-22-2015, 11:40 PM	#2 (permalink)
Spooler A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Ga Posts: 14,119 Drives: 2013 Nismo 370z Rep Power: 2684394	How are you placing the copper wash on the drain plug?

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06-23-2015, 10:33 AM	#6 (permalink)
kenchan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: N/A Posts: 76,801 Drives: N/A Rep Power: 141521	i rather re-use the old washer vs not using any. no need to add unnecessary wear from friction.

06-24-2015, 12:11 PM	#13 (permalink)
2011 Nismo#91 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: NJ Posts: 2,412 Drives: slowly Rep Power: 40570